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A step up in their range comes the Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Cru, a pure expression of Agrapart’s Grands Crus holdings in the villages of Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry. Again blended across two vintages, displaying this skill at which the Champenois have few equals, this cuvée is perhaps broader and deeper than Les 7 Crus given its extra year Sur Latte. A clearly favourite of William Kelley (Wine Advocate), there is little doubt that this particular cuvée represents some of the best value in the grower Champagne movement.
Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs F13 is – as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years.
Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart farm 24 acres morsellated into more than 60 parcels the length of the Cote des Blancs, overwhelmingly planted with selections massales (principally of the family’s own, generations-long devising) rather than clones. Viticulture is clearly a meticulous concern, and while this estate doesn’t subscribe to any labels, it has a lot in common – including absence of herbicides or pesticides; generally minimalist cellar protocol; manual- and in some instances horse-plowing – with soil-conscious growers of officially organic or biodynamic persuasion. “It’s in warm, dry vintages with low acidity that you most see the effect of working the soil and making the roots go deep,” opines Pascal Agrapart, adding “I recently had a wonderful experience with a 1976 that was still full of vivacity.” Vinification is majority in tank for the two least expensive bottlings, but otherwise in old demi-muids in which primary fermentation is spontaneous and generally leisurely, with malo-lactic conversion initiated via a vinous starter to insure steady completion. Agrapart’s 2012 vins clairs and 2011 reserves, incidentally – wine isn’t assembled and bottled here until the end of the summer – were delightful and fascinating when tasted from barrel this June. There was noteworthy clarity, vibrancy and complexity to every wine I tasted here in June and thereafter, so it would have broken my heart not to be able to report on the non-vintage wines, but to do so, I must confess I’m walking close to the line of the conventions I established for my reports, because neither disgorgement dates nor lots are actually indicated on the label or bottle here, but rather on the top of the cork, with the months assigned consecutive capital letters, followed by the last two digits of the year in which the wine was disgorged. This means you’ll either need to buy and remove the cage from the first bottle or get some cooperation from your merchant if you want to know when the wine was disgorged (and as at other addresses, this won’t always be a reliable indicator as to the base wines in question, because Agraparts disgorge their “7 Crus” and “Terroirs” bottlings monthly).
Drinking Window: 2013 - 2018
Reviewer Name: David Schildknecht
Review Date: 30th November 2013
The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs Grand Cru is terrific. Bright and focus, with terrific depth, the Terroirs is a very pretty wine in the more affordable part of this range, so to speak. Citrus, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks and spice are all nicely delineated. There's a very good balance of richness and energy here. This release is equal parts 2018 and 2017, bottled with five grams of dosage. Disgorged: June, 2022.
Drinking Window: 2022 - 2028
Reviewer Name: Antonio Galloni
Review Date: 30th November 2022
The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Terroirs is a very pretty wine among the entry-level selections in this range. Bright and vibrant in the glass, the Terroirs bristles with energy, the blend of fruit from sites in Avize, Oger, Cramant and Oiry works so well here. Citrus, white flowers, white pepper and crushed rocks add a super appealing upper register. This release is a blend of equal parts 2016 and 2015, with about 25% of the wine done in neutral oak. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Best of all, the Terroirs is a superb value. Disgorged: April, 2020.
Drinking Window: 2020 - 2030
Reviewer Name: Antonio Galloni
Review Date: 19th November 2020
