
Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur - a "New Classicism"?
After a trio of excellent warm, dry vintages in Bordeaux, where most producers and appellations did very well across the board, 2021 was less straightforward for the vignerons of the world’s most famous wine region. Pressures from frost and mildew were the complications that tested some Chateaux’s resolve but nevertheless, the 2021 growing season has created what Decanter’s Georgie Hindle believes to be ‘one of the most interesting and talked about vintages of recent times.’
Generalising is a difficult thing to do in 2021 Bordeaux but if we were forced, we’d say that the vintage has yielded elegant & classically proportioned wines. Many have moderate alcohol levels, think 12-13.5 % rather than the loft heights of 14.5-15%, whilst they also have more supple, charming profiles more in line with the great Bordeaux wines of the 80s and 90s than the recent blockbuster vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020. It is in vintages like 2021 where we really appreciate the pedigree and winemaking knowledge of the very best properties within this majestic region– with all the modern science, technology and investment now behind these great estates, it is hard for them to make anything other than beautiful wine.
Don't miss the whites of 2021 as they have been universally praised and were a joy to taste. The cool conditions of 2021 have certainly created the ‘finest set of dry whites since 2017’ that ‘exhibit considerable potential’ (WA).
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Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (24x37.5cl)
£136 - £163
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Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (6x150cl)
£122 - £146
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Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (6x75cl)
£50 - £60
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Decanter (92)
Super aromatic on the nose, really quite expressive and bursting out of the glass with bramble tones, black pepper and perfumed black fruits. Soft and appealing on the palate, this has such an immediate charm, partly because of the ripe fruits that have a really juicy, chewy sweetness to them and partly because of the dry, bitter, spice-edged tannins that give angles to the fruit and depth to the palate but also that lick of wet stone and graphite minerality. This is good stuff, I love the expression and the attitude here, it's a 'look at me' wine with nice presentation, power, persistence and frame.Belgrave 2021 (6x75cl)
£110 - £132
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (85-87)
The 2021 Cambon La Pelouse offers good depth, but also presents quite a bit of reduction that hopefully will dissipate with élevage. We will see. Tasted two times.Cambon La Pelouse 2021 (12x75cl)
£139 - £167
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (85-87)
The 2021 Cambon La Pelouse offers good depth, but also presents quite a bit of reduction that hopefully will dissipate with élevage. We will see. Tasted two times.Cambon La Pelouse 2021 (6x75cl)
£139 - £167
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Jancis Robinson (15.5+)
Perfumed, aromatic with blueberry and dark-fruit notes. Lively, fresh and supple on the palate. Acidity sits in a little on the finish and the oak needs to settle so could improve.Camensac 2021 (6x75cl)
£120 - £144
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Decanter (91)
Allspice, cedar, juniper and blackcurrants - a heady, appealing perfume. Lightly framed with gentle but mouthwatering and succulent red berry fruits mingling with firm tannins that coat the mouth in a fine layer of chalky, fruity saltiness. Attractive balance, if a little light on the mid-palate at this point, but this has a long finish and a motion of flavour from beginning to end. It feels well worked with concentration and direction. Structured and confident.Cantemerle 2021 (6x150cl)
£218 - £261
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Vinous - Neal Martin (90-92)
Th 2021 Charmail has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit, the oak well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit concentration, and well balanced and delineated, leading to a brisk, focused finish. This is a superb Haut-Médoc.Charmail 2021 (12x75cl)
£139 - £167
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Vinous - Neal Martin (90-92)
Th 2021 Charmail has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit, the oak well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit concentration, and well balanced and delineated, leading to a brisk, focused finish. This is a superb Haut-Médoc.Charmail 2021 (6x75cl)
£68 - £81
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James Suckling (91-92)
A medium-bodied, creamy red with pretty walnut and blackcurrant notes. Nicely balanced with a supple finish.Citran 2021 (12x75cl)
£154 - £185
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James Suckling (91-92)
A medium-bodied, creamy red with pretty walnut and blackcurrant notes. Nicely balanced with a supple finish.Citran 2021 (6x75cl)
£72 - £86
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Hourtin Ducasse 2021 (6x150cl)
£240 - £288
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Hourtin Ducasse 2021 (6x75cl)
£240 - £288
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James Suckling (93-94)
Fresh and fine with tight-grained, lightly stemmy tannins. Violets, raspberries, currants and orange zest. Medium-bodied, tight and fine. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.La Lagune 2021 (12x75cl)
£313 - £375
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James Suckling (93-94)
Fresh and fine with tight-grained, lightly stemmy tannins. Violets, raspberries, currants and orange zest. Medium-bodied, tight and fine. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.La Lagune 2021 (6x150cl)
£360 - £432
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (91-93)
The 2021 La Tour Carnet is another gorgeous wine in this range from Bernard Magrez. Deeply pitched spice notes meld into a core of red plum/cherry fruit, followed by brighter, high-toned floral accents that add lift. La Tour Carnet has a track record of aging quite well. I suspect that will be the case here as well. La Tour Carnet remains one of the most under the radar wines in all of Bordeaux. Tasted four times.La Tour Carnet 2021 (12x75cl)
£257 - £308
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (91-93)
The 2021 La Tour Carnet is another gorgeous wine in this range from Bernard Magrez. Deeply pitched spice notes meld into a core of red plum/cherry fruit, followed by brighter, high-toned floral accents that add lift. La Tour Carnet has a track record of aging quite well. I suspect that will be the case here as well. La Tour Carnet remains one of the most under the radar wines in all of Bordeaux. Tasted four times.La Tour Carnet 2021 (6x75cl)
£127 - £152
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Lanessan is a tasty, mid-weight Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois that very much reflects the style of the year. Bright floral accents, red berry fruit, mint, exotic spice and blood orange fill out the layers effortlessly. This is very nicely done.Lanessan 2021 (12x75cl)
£124 - £149
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Lanessan is a tasty, mid-weight Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois that very much reflects the style of the year. Bright floral accents, red berry fruit, mint, exotic spice and blood orange fill out the layers effortlessly. This is very nicely done.Lanessan 2021 (6x75cl)
£60 - £72
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (90-92)
The 2021 Larrivaux is a real standout. It offers terrific depth and delineation in the super-classic style of the year. Crushed flowers, herbs, tobacco, cedar and mint all grace this wonderfully expressive Haut-Médoc.Larrivaux 2021 (6x75cl)
£50 - £60
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (89-91)
The 2021 Peyrabon is a gorgeous, affordable Haut-Médoc that shows just how intriguing the vintage is on the Left Bank. Aromatic, gracious and impeccable in its balance, Peyrabon is absolutely delicious.Peyrabon 2021 (6x75cl)
£90 - £108
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (12x75cl)
£120 - £144
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (24x37.5cl)
£130 - £156
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (6x75cl)
£60 - £72
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James Suckling (93-94)
This is very solid, with blackcurrants and tar and chewy tannins. Medium-bodied with an impressive structure and a chewy finish.Sociando-Mallet 2021 (6x150cl)
£360 - £432
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James Suckling (93-94)
This is very solid, with blackcurrants and tar and chewy tannins. Medium-bodied with an impressive structure and a chewy finish.Sociando-Mallet 2021 (6x75cl)
£130 - £156
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Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (24x37.5cl)
£136 - £163
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Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (6x150cl)
£122 - £146
-
Jancis Robinson (15.5)
Fruity with red- and dark-fruit aromas. Supple and easy-going on the palate. Light structure but fine tannins. Pleasant early drinking.Beaumont 2021 (6x75cl)
£50 - £60
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Decanter (92)
Super aromatic on the nose, really quite expressive and bursting out of the glass with bramble tones, black pepper and perfumed black fruits. Soft and appealing on the palate, this has such an immediate charm, partly because of the ripe fruits that have a really juicy, chewy sweetness to them and partly because of the dry, bitter, spice-edged tannins that give angles to the fruit and depth to the palate but also that lick of wet stone and graphite minerality. This is good stuff, I love the expression and the attitude here, it's a 'look at me' wine with nice presentation, power, persistence and frame.Belgrave 2021 (6x75cl)
£110 - £132
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (85-87)
The 2021 Cambon La Pelouse offers good depth, but also presents quite a bit of reduction that hopefully will dissipate with élevage. We will see. Tasted two times.Cambon La Pelouse 2021 (12x75cl)
£139 - £167
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (85-87)
The 2021 Cambon La Pelouse offers good depth, but also presents quite a bit of reduction that hopefully will dissipate with élevage. We will see. Tasted two times.Cambon La Pelouse 2021 (6x75cl)
£139 - £167
-
Jancis Robinson (15.5+)
Perfumed, aromatic with blueberry and dark-fruit notes. Lively, fresh and supple on the palate. Acidity sits in a little on the finish and the oak needs to settle so could improve.Camensac 2021 (6x75cl)
£120 - £144
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Decanter (91)
Allspice, cedar, juniper and blackcurrants - a heady, appealing perfume. Lightly framed with gentle but mouthwatering and succulent red berry fruits mingling with firm tannins that coat the mouth in a fine layer of chalky, fruity saltiness. Attractive balance, if a little light on the mid-palate at this point, but this has a long finish and a motion of flavour from beginning to end. It feels well worked with concentration and direction. Structured and confident.Cantemerle 2021 (6x150cl)
£218 - £261
-
Vinous - Neal Martin (90-92)
Th 2021 Charmail has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit, the oak well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit concentration, and well balanced and delineated, leading to a brisk, focused finish. This is a superb Haut-Médoc.Charmail 2021 (12x75cl)
£139 - £167
-
Vinous - Neal Martin (90-92)
Th 2021 Charmail has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit, the oak well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with good fruit concentration, and well balanced and delineated, leading to a brisk, focused finish. This is a superb Haut-Médoc.Charmail 2021 (6x75cl)
£68 - £81
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James Suckling (91-92)
A medium-bodied, creamy red with pretty walnut and blackcurrant notes. Nicely balanced with a supple finish.Citran 2021 (12x75cl)
£154 - £185
-
James Suckling (91-92)
A medium-bodied, creamy red with pretty walnut and blackcurrant notes. Nicely balanced with a supple finish.Citran 2021 (6x75cl)
£72 - £86
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Hourtin Ducasse 2021 (6x150cl)
£240 - £288
-
Hourtin Ducasse 2021 (6x75cl)
£240 - £288
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James Suckling (93-94)
Fresh and fine with tight-grained, lightly stemmy tannins. Violets, raspberries, currants and orange zest. Medium-bodied, tight and fine. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.La Lagune 2021 (12x75cl)
£313 - £375
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James Suckling (93-94)
Fresh and fine with tight-grained, lightly stemmy tannins. Violets, raspberries, currants and orange zest. Medium-bodied, tight and fine. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.La Lagune 2021 (6x150cl)
£360 - £432
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (91-93)
The 2021 La Tour Carnet is another gorgeous wine in this range from Bernard Magrez. Deeply pitched spice notes meld into a core of red plum/cherry fruit, followed by brighter, high-toned floral accents that add lift. La Tour Carnet has a track record of aging quite well. I suspect that will be the case here as well. La Tour Carnet remains one of the most under the radar wines in all of Bordeaux. Tasted four times.La Tour Carnet 2021 (12x75cl)
£257 - £308
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (91-93)
The 2021 La Tour Carnet is another gorgeous wine in this range from Bernard Magrez. Deeply pitched spice notes meld into a core of red plum/cherry fruit, followed by brighter, high-toned floral accents that add lift. La Tour Carnet has a track record of aging quite well. I suspect that will be the case here as well. La Tour Carnet remains one of the most under the radar wines in all of Bordeaux. Tasted four times.La Tour Carnet 2021 (6x75cl)
£127 - £152
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Lanessan is a tasty, mid-weight Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois that very much reflects the style of the year. Bright floral accents, red berry fruit, mint, exotic spice and blood orange fill out the layers effortlessly. This is very nicely done.Lanessan 2021 (12x75cl)
£124 - £149
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Lanessan is a tasty, mid-weight Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois that very much reflects the style of the year. Bright floral accents, red berry fruit, mint, exotic spice and blood orange fill out the layers effortlessly. This is very nicely done.Lanessan 2021 (6x75cl)
£60 - £72
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (90-92)
The 2021 Larrivaux is a real standout. It offers terrific depth and delineation in the super-classic style of the year. Crushed flowers, herbs, tobacco, cedar and mint all grace this wonderfully expressive Haut-Médoc.Larrivaux 2021 (6x75cl)
£50 - £60
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (89-91)
The 2021 Peyrabon is a gorgeous, affordable Haut-Médoc that shows just how intriguing the vintage is on the Left Bank. Aromatic, gracious and impeccable in its balance, Peyrabon is absolutely delicious.Peyrabon 2021 (6x75cl)
£90 - £108
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (12x75cl)
£120 - £144
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (24x37.5cl)
£130 - £156
-
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (88-90)
The 2021 Sénéjac opens with strong Cabernet inflections. Deep and also quite sturdy, Sénéjac is promising. Pipe tobacco, cedar, mint, spice and dried herbs linger on the somewhat rustic finish. Let's see how this comes together.Senejac 2021 (6x75cl)
£60 - £72
-
James Suckling (93-94)
This is very solid, with blackcurrants and tar and chewy tannins. Medium-bodied with an impressive structure and a chewy finish.Sociando-Mallet 2021 (6x150cl)
£360 - £432
-
James Suckling (93-94)
This is very solid, with blackcurrants and tar and chewy tannins. Medium-bodied with an impressive structure and a chewy finish.Sociando-Mallet 2021 (6x75cl)
£130 - £156