Vinous (94)

The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Minéral is a powerful, intense Champagne that captures all of the natural power of these old vines in Avize and Cramant. Aptly named, the Minéral is infused with tremendous mineral and soil inflections that give a real feeling of gravitas. Crushed rocks, slate, chalk and citrus accents are some of the many nuances that emerge with a bit of time in the glass. This release is fabulous. It is also a reticent wine, though, so at least a year or two in bottle will help soften. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-99)

5 Star Wine. A brilliant purple, with a fascinating touch of spice to add to the depth of dark yet royal fruit. Just keeps getting more profound on the nose. Incredibly intense through the middle, excellent mineral acidity behind, and a length well above the others. Thank you for this perfection.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

Moving to the two Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases and 35% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 12% Counoise, the rest other permitted varieties (Marc calls this a Mourvèdre vintage), the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape sports an inky purple color as well as a textbook Mourvèdre nose of black, black fruits, smoked meats, crushed rocks, charcoal, and pepper. It's deep and full-bodied, with beautiful purity and building structure. Production is down 40%, but this brilliant wine is certainly in the same league as the 2016.

A family-run Champagne house with a history dating back to 1878, many of the grapes grown by Maison Bénard Pitois are bought by Bollinger but they keep selected parcels from their 1er Cru vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to create this excellent value Brut Réserve and their other releases.

 

Made from a blend of 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, it was aged for 30 months on lees, double the usual Non-Vintage ageing period of 15 months, and elegant brioche and almond complexity really shines through. It was also partly aged in wooden barrels, which has given it the richness..

Vinous (86-88)

The 2019 Vougeot Clos de Village has a light, slightly green bouquet, although there are no stems here. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly coarse tannins on the entry, but it coheres toward the finish. A lightweight Vougeot considering the vintage. Just three barrels produced. 

James Suckling (98)

An amazing 2008 rosé Champagne that has all the structure and aromatic complexity - sushi ginger, oolong tea and caramelized mandarin orange - we associate with this vintage, but also has more charm than most. On the palate, this has stunning concentration, yet is diamond bright. The interplay of creaminess, fine tannins and mineral acidity builds and builds at the breathtaking finish. The color comes from about 7% pinot noir red wine, partly from the little-known Les Riceys in the far south of Champagne. Drink or hold.

The Wine Cellar Insider (98)

Flowers are the first thing you notice before discovering all the spice, cloves, kirsch, and dark cherries on the nose. On the palate, the wine is silky, elegant, fresh, supple, and refined. The kirsch shows a beautiful purity and spicy character, along with its refined tannins and peppery strawberries that kick in at the end of the finish. The wine is a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah with the remaining 5% consisting of various, allowable grape varieties. The grapes are as always 100% destemmed. The production is quite low this year at only 25 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is 15.2% ABV, but you do not sense any heat.

Vinous (93-95)

A highly fragrant bouquet evokes ripe, mineral-accented black/blue fruits, Moroccan spices, olive and candied flowers, along with a smoky mineral element that builds as the wine opens up. Juicy, energetic and focused on the palate, offering appealingly sweet boysenberry, cherry preserve and violet pastille flavors that deepen steadily through the midpalate. The floral note resonates on the impressively long finish, which features well-knit tannins and a smoky mineral quality.

James Suckling (98)

This is a very thick, dense DP with layers of ripe fruit. Dried apple, pineapple and pie crust with some nougat undertones. Dense and layered with chewy tannins and a juicy finish. Umami undertone. This has the highest percentage of pinot noir ever. 15 years on the lees in bottle. 62% pinot noir and 38% chardonnay. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is performing every bit as well in bottle as it promised to in barrel. Exhibiting a deep bouquet of dark berries, orange zest, rose petal, coniferous forest floor and spices, it's full-bodied, pure and perfumed, its velvety attack segueing into a deep, layered mid-palate of striking energy and intensity of flavor. This is often my favorite wine in the Dujac cellar, though it invariably takes the better part of two decades to attain a semblance of maturity, and the 2020 is a benchmark rendition.

Relish in a bottle of Geantet Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2019, a sophisticated French red wine emanating from the celebrated Geantet Pansiot estate. Painstakingly nurtured in Burgundy's famous Gevrey-Chambertin region, it's notable for its profound depth of flavour and distinguished elegance.

This exceptional wine was vinified using hand-picked grapes from 45-year-old vines, endowed with an intricate balance of terroir characteristics. Ageing in French oak barrels for over a year, Geantet Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2019 develops a magnificent bouquet rich in black fruits, bolstered by alluring notes of spices. The palate sings with the harmony of ripe fruit and firm tannins seamlessly integrated with a sumptuous finish.

A product of Vincent and Fabien Geantet's exhaustive expertise, this 2019 vintage honours the family winemaking lineage dating back to 1954. Enjoy this picturesque narrative of a timeless winemaking tradition that creates bottles of unrivalled finesse, like the Geantet Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2019.

Wine Advocate (98-100)

Subtle hints of fresh pea shoots accent characteristic dark notes of roasted meat, espresso and black olives in the full-bodied 2018 Cote Rotie La Landonne. Rich, concentrated and velvety-textured, with ample length and plenty of ripe tannins on the finish, it should benefit from a decade or more of bottle age—once it gets there. It's a brooding beast of a Cote Rotie that serious collectors will want to have in their cellars.

Wine Advocate (98-100)

Like the 2017, Guigal's 2018 Cote Rotie La Mouline boasts incredible aromatics, with highs ranging from violets and peppery spice to ripe blueberries and raspberries. The oak is in the background, supporting the supple fruit. Full-bodied, lush and silky, La Mouline seems to have it all in 2018.

Vinous (94)

The 2015 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is bright, precise and crystalline - in other words, a classic expression of this great grand cru. White flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate all run through this super-expressive, nuanced Chablis from Dauvissat. Even in this warm, radiant vintage, the personality of Preuses comes through loud and clear - and that is perhaps the greatest compliment I can pay to this wine.

Vinous (88)

Bright medium red. Reticent aromas of cherry, redcurrant, pepper and licorice. A supple if somewhat brooding village wine with strong herb and licorice notes to go with its cherry and dark berry fruit flavors. A step up from the Marsannay in mid-palate stuffing, with the wine's dusty tannins more successfully buffered on the back end. A bit more finishing sweetness here as well, along with good grip.

Burghound (93-96)

Ripe aromas include those of plum, dark cherry, warm earth and a whisper of the sauvage. The supple, delicious and dense big-bodied flavors flash enormous power and drive that really builds from the mid-palate to the explosively long and sappy finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. Note that this is very firmly structured and in need of at least a decade of keeping and should reward almost two.

Burghound (93-95)

This too is firmly reduced. There is almost painful intensity to the beautifully delineated and mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors that possess a highly refined textured before culminating in an almost crisp, moderately austere and wonderfully persistent finale that is quite firmly structured. This is a bit atypical but no less attractive for it and a Bèze that should amply reward a decade plus of cellaring. Lovely.

Vinous (89-91)

The 2020 Volnay Village is completely aged in used barrel. It has a transparent nose with lifted red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit with an underlying tertiary scent. The palate is more expressive than the aromatics with juicy ripe tart red cherries, quite citric in style with orange rind and a touch of bitter lemon enlivening the finish. This should drink well for up to 15 years, possibly more.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Also showing considerable elegance, the 2019 Gigondas Les Souteyrades sports a ruby/purple hue to go with beautiful and exotic notes of black raspberries, kirsch, candied orange, violets, and peppery garrigue. Beautifully balanced, medium to full-bodied, and downright silky on the palate, this heavenly Grenache should be snatched up by readers. It's going to keep for 15 years.

Decanter (96)

It was a dry vintage up to August, which turned exceptionally wet and cool. September saved the vintage with the ideal weather conditions - low rainfall and cool nights. The graceful nose opens to white flowers, ripe apricot and citrus hints. It is tense and refined, with a vivid mineral core balanced by pristine acidity and some toasted notes on the finish. It's not the most expressive today, but wait for it to awaken. This is built for cellaring.

Vinous (93-95)

(80% new oak; 60% vendange entier): Good dark red. Complex nose and palate meld cherry liqueur, animal fur, resiny spices and cedar, lifted by high notes of flowers and citrus peel. Very sweet, silky and ripe, with outstanding sappy verve giving this dense, tactile yet suave wine a noble quality. The very long, mounting finish shows superb fine-grained tannins and building sweetness. A real essence of this grand cru.

Wine Advocate (97+)

Disgorged with 1.7 grams per liter dosage after 48 months sur lattes, Collin's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2016) 48 months bursts with aromas of green apple, blanched almonds, confit citrus and pastry cream. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids and this site's telltale chiseled, incisive profile; it's long and penetrating, concluding with chalky grip. With this late-disgorged version, Les Pierrières takes another step.

Wine Advocate (98)

The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015) 60 months is spectacular, soaring from the glass with a dramatic bouquet of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, anise, beeswax, white flowers and almonds. Full-bodied, layered and complete, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, penetratingly saline finish. This late-disgorged version of Les Enfers is produced in very small quantities, but readers who can secure a bottle or two shouldn't hesitate.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)

100% whole bunch vinification. Most of the vines date back to 1928-29 with a few from 1989. Glowing imperial purple. The nose mirrors the majesty. Starts discreetly then swells on the palate. The wine is entirely harmonious with perfectly integrated light touch of acidity. It is very far from being massive but it is a beauty nonetheless.