An elegant Champagne in an aperitif style, with flavors of crushed blackberry, biscuit, spring blossom and Meyer lemon zest riding the finely detailed bead, underscored by a streak of salinity that emerges on the fresh finish.

(40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier): Pale gold. Spice- and mineral-accented orchard and pit fruits on the intensely perfumed nose, with hints of toasty lees and brioche adding complexity. Sappy, penetrating and floral on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon, pear and melon flavors braced by a smoky mineral underpinning. Closes spicy and very long, leaving a sexy honeysuckle note behind.

Roederer's NV Brut Premier is a classic and blends about 40% Pinot Noir (from Bouzy and Ambonnay), with 20-25% Meunier (whose share is declining in this blend) and Chardonnay. Two-thirds of the grapes come from estate vineyards, one-third is purchased. (Mind you that all the other Roederer cuvées are sourced exclusively form their own vineyards!) The newest release of the Premier is based on 75% 2009 and 25% reserve wines, which are, since 1996, single vintage wines aged in large oak casks between 6,000 and 10,000 liters. Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon holds 160 vats of reserve wines that are stored blank, so without lees, which otherwise would dominate the taste, says Lécaillon. "I don't like the reductive yeast flavors. Instead I am searching for a slightly oxidative and oaky style in my reserve wine." Lécaillon's youngest Premier did not undergo malolactic fermentation. The wine opens very bright, precise and refined, with toasty and white chocolate flavors. Absolutely delicate and elegant on the palate, this is a light, silky textured and remarkably finesse-full Champagne that is fresh on the palate, thanks to its structure and slightly oaky flavors. Excellent.