Wine Advocate (98)

The 2005 La Vina de Andres Romeo is a bit more brooding and backward. Opaque purple/black, it has an alluring nose of toasty oak, pencil lead, scorched earth, espresso, truffle, and blackberry. Tightly wound but beautifully balanced, this is an opulent effort that requires patience. Give it 10-12 years of further aging and drink it from 2020 through 2040.

Deep amber in colour, this is always such a unique wine. Hardly surprisingly given its oxidative ageing process, it has a significant hint of Jerez about it on the nose with notes of roasted almonds and a light hint of marmite, with a sweet suggestion of caramelised shallots behind, all of this topped off with a definite touch of strawberries and vanilla. The palate astonishes with its fine, elegant, almost searing freshness. Everything is in such wonderful balance – it is completely glorious. The texture is light yet with a slight oak tannin grip. Sweet strawberries lie in the background but that acidity has an almost tart tangerine quality to it, it is so refreshing. The wine has a beautiful finish of red apple and lemon pith mixing with the touch of almonds. This is a very fine, extremely fresh and absolutely incomparable ten-year-old rosé. Oh delicious. Drink 2021 to 2038.

Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Pure magic, the 2019 Aro is 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano from a plant by plant selection of the Muga family's oldest vines of Tempranillo, blended with a substantial portion of Graciano. This dense purple behemoth has a primordial bouquet of pure cassis, graphite, crushed stone, lead pencil, new leather, and hints of spring flowers. Building incrementally on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate, and ripe, velvety tannins, this is one heavenly Rioja that deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and will age like a First Growth from Bordeaux. Hats off to the team at Muga for another incredible wine.

Hailing from the celebrated winemaking region of Spain, Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Gran Reserva 2011 is an impeccable embodiment of terroir distinction and winemaking artistry. Hand-harvested and masterfully crafted by the esteemed Remirez de Ganuza estate, this Spanish icon is created from a varietal blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano grapes from 60-year old vines for a superlative heritage expression.

Its lavish ageing in French oak barrels for 27 months yields an unforgettably intense palate. Bursting with richness, this full-bodied red reveals complex notes of ripe red fruit, sweet spices and fine-leather, underpinned by silky tannins and balanced acidity. With its lingering, elegant finish, the Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Gran Reserva 2011 is unquestionably a magnum opus of the estate's 40 years of winemaking brilliance. A beautifully crafted trophy wine that speaks volumes for the grandeur of Spanish fine wine.

Experience the intense flavour and delight of the Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva 2006, a vibrant embodiment of Spanish craftsmanship. Renowned winemaker, Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, utilises a careful blend of predominantly Tempranillo, with a small blend of Graciano grapes, sourced from their oldest vineyards in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. Notable for its meticulous production process, only the shoulders or the thickest parts of the grapes are used, fermented in new French oak barrels.

The 2006 vintage enchants with a deep, ruby-red hue, an aromatic bouquet of wild berries and hints of spice, with an exquisite balance of smoked toffee. The palate introduces a powerful presence, offering an intricate blend of fruit, oak, and mineral notes with a long, structured finish. The Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva 2006 provides not only a sip of wine but a savoured taste of tradition and the essence of Rioja.

Wine Advocate (95)

The phenomenal 2010 Reserva is produced with 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and some 5% of the skins of Malvasía and Viura grapes used for the white wine after it finished fermenting. Here, they select the grapes from some of their best and oldest vineyards, put them in cold storage for 24 hours and then exclusively select the grapes from the top half of the bunches. It fermented in 7,000-liter oak vats and small stainless steel tanks followed by malolactic and 25 months aging in new French barriques. This is a vintage that deserves to be laid down in the cellar, as it has all the components and the balance to develop into a superb classical Rioja with a few more years in bottle. Everything seems to be in its place, and all components show high quality: the tannins, the acidity, the oak, the fruit... Highly recommended. One for the cellar. 72,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2013.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (98)

The talented Telmo Rodriguez is launching this wine onto the Place with its first vintage for the entirety of its production. The grapes are from a 3.8ha limestone-dominant plot within the family’s Remelluri estate, found in the foothills of the Sierra de Tolono mountains. A sweet and smoky attack, with a ton of flavours and fragrant aromatics that grab hold and hang on, from dense liquorice root to crushed stones to blueberry, redcurrant, rose petals and tobacco, nothing too much or too overwhelming, but you also feel the herb-strewn call of the vineyard and you want to be there, among the vines where this is made. Get hold of it now, enjoy the brilliance of Telmo Rodriguez and the sense of place that he can bring to a wine. A field blend, as with the brilliant Remelluri Blanco, with just over 7,000 bottles in this inaugural vintage. An outstanding first outing that you should be following - believe me, this is a cult wine in the making.

James Suckling (100)

Such a deep yet complex and sophisticated nose, showing discretion, perfume and finesse. A hint of violet extract to the black cherries, crushed blueberries and cocoa powder aromas, together with Spanish cigars that slowly evolve to truffle, black pepper, incense and freshly chopped herbs. Juicy, yet really composed and dry, with medium to full body and abundant, immaculately fine-grained tannins that unwind evenly on the palate. A style that is restrainedly plush and refined, showing superb precision, cohesion and length, when you give it enough time in your glass. If Las Beatas is the fine Burgundy, then this would be Telmo Rodriguez’s Rioja answer to world-class Bordeaux. Decant it to let the complexity come through. Drink through the next 20 plus years.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

I tasted this at the property from barrel, thrilled to follow it now in bottle. Grabs you from the first moments with its sage, thyme, dried flowers and incense aromatics, clings to your nostrils, drawing you in, so much depth of flavour to the vivid raspberry and sour cherry fruits, delicate and yet powerful. Hard to describe how little artifice is conveyed in the glass, it's not a wine that is coated in new oak, instead it is delicate, poised, crafted, utterly gorgeous, so moreish. Harvest October 6 to 18, 3.8ha, old gobelet vines, with any replacements coming from massal selction. Iconic winemaking partnership Telmo Rodriguez and Pablo Eguzkiza. I hope everyone folllowed my advice from the first vintage to get on board because it is more than living up to its potential, and its tiny quatities means that first come are almost certainly first served.