A family-run Champagne house with a history dating back to 1878, many of the grapes grown by Maison Bénard Pitois are bought by Bollinger but they keep selected parcels from their 1er Cru vines in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to create this excellent value Brut Réserve and their other releases.

 

Made from a blend of 60% Pinot and 40% Chardonnay, it was aged for 30 months on lees, double the usual Non-Vintage ageing period of 15 months, and elegant brioche and almond complexity really shines through. It was also partly aged in wooden barrels, which has given it the richness..

Vinous (95)

The 2014 Extra-Brut Le Cran (50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay) is fabulous. It marries the energy of the vintage with terrific mid-palate presence and overall depth. Dried pear, spice, menthol chamomile and lightly floral honey all meld together in a Chardonnay of real depth and textural resonance. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: July, 2021.

Vinous (91)

The 2015 Rilly La Montagne, 100% Pinot Noir, is soft, supple and forward. Exotic floral notes, passion fruit, chamomile and spice grace this pretty, open-knit Champagne. My impression is that the 2015 is going to be more rewarding over the near and medium-term rather than over a longer period of time. Dosage is 4.8 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 7, 2019.

Vinous (94)

The 2016 Rilly La Montagne, 100% Pinot Noir, possesses striking inner perfume and tons of sheer allure. Medium in body and gracious, the Rilly has much to offer. It is not especially vinous, as the Bérêche wines can be, but rather a Champagne that impresses with the understated finesse and persistence that come from this relatively high altitude site. Kirsch, Mirabelle plum, mint, spice and dried rose petal are some of the many aromas and flavors that emerge. The Rilly has so much to offer. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2020.

L'Apotre Blanc de Blancs 2014 which is certainly the star of his cellar, is a single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) from old vines planted by his grandfather in 1946. The wine is vinified in oak barrel which lend this Champagne a powerful vinous character.

Wine Advocate (96+)

Disgorged in January 2021 with two grams per liter dosage, the 2015 Extra-Brut Premier Cru Clos de l'Abbaye has turned out brilliantly. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, warm bread and honeycomb that are still a little reserved after its recent disgorgement, this is a full-bodied, layered and concentrated Champagne that's vinous and textural, displaying notable depth and mid-palate amplitude that's framed by lively acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse, concluding with a long resonant finish. As I've written before, this cuvée derives from a walled 0.4-hectare plot of 60-year-old cordon-pruned vines just behind the winery in Vertus, and only the first and second "serres" of the press are used.

Vinous (94)

The NV Vieilles Vignes de Vrigny (Meunier) is one of the best vintages of this cuvée I can remember tasting. Bright and finely cut, the Vieilles Vignes sizzles with tension from start to finish. Dried pear, spice, crushed rocks, mint and white pepper all race out of the glass. Meunier has rarely been so refined, so nuanced. Give this a year or two to unwind. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: September, 2022.

Vinous (96)

Kirsch, blood orange, dried autumn leaves, mint and Mirabelle plum give the NV Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont (2013) a wild, exotic bouquet that is immensely alluring. The Mareuil is always a bit unruly, but over the last few releases it has gained just a bit more finesse than in the past. This is such a great expression of Pinot Noir. Disgorged: February 25, 2020.

Vinous (96)

Kirsch, blood orange, dried autumn leaves, mint and Mirabelle plum give the NV Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont (2013) a wild, exotic bouquet that is immensely alluring. The Mareuil is always a bit unruly, but over the last few releases it has gained just a bit more finesse than in the past. This is such a great expression of Pinot Noir. Disgorged: February 25, 2020.

The Jean-Marc Seleque Soliste Pinot Noir Les Gayeres Premier Cru 2016 is a fine testament to Franche Champagne craftsmanship. Produced by esteemed winemaker Jean-Marc Seleque in Pierry, a picturesque Premier Cru village, this Pinot Noir embodies the exceptional savoir-faire and years of family vineyard expertise. Utilising organic and sustainable methods, Seleque’s dedication to uncompromising quality is evident in this vintage.

The 2016 Soliste, matured for 18 months in 35% new oak, boasts a captivating aroma. A triumphant harmony of wild strawberries, cherries, forest floor and subtle spice linger on the nose, promising an impeccable tasting journey. On the palate, here's finesse; a silken texture met with bright acidity, and a satisfying, lingering finish. This poised, elegant red offers notes of red fruits and a touch of spice, mirrored from the bouquet.

A true delicacy for enthusiasts, the Jean-Marc Seleque Soliste Pinot Noir Les Gayeres Premier Cru 2016 won't fail to enchant.

Savour the exquisitely crafted Jean-Marc Seleque, Coteaux Champenois Premier Cru, Dizy 2019. This vintage originates from the esteemed Premier Cru vineyards of Dizy in the Champagne region of France. Produced by seventh-generation grower Jean-Marc Seleque, this wine encapsulates the family's dedication to quality and tradition, with each cluster handpicked and diligently selected for superior taste. The vinification process utilises oak barrels, fostering a refined and complex flavour profile.

This elegant wine is distilled from pure Meunier grapes, offering an impressive pallet of red fruits with a delicate minerality. Bright crimson in hue, the Dizy 2019 provides a remarkable balance between acidity and rounded smoothness, yielding an exceptionally pleasing finish.

Enjoy the Jean-Marc Seleque, Coteaux Champenois Premier Cru, Dizy 2019's fine craftsmanship with confidence, knowing it represents the best of Premier Cru selections.

Steeped in sophistication, the Jean-Marc Seleque, Les Gouttes d'Or Premier Cru, Pierry 2016 is an epitome of exquisite French handiwork. Crafted in the reputed vineyards of the Pierry terroir, nested in Champagne, this first-class blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier has received Premier Cru designation, affirming its exceptional quality. The grapes, handpicked during the harvest peak of 2016, underwent meticulous vinification in oak casks, imbuing the wine with its distinct character. The result embraces you with delicate citrus notes, elegantly balanced by a tantalising underpinning of minerality and a refined, persistent finish.

Produced by the talented Jean-Marc Seleque, it reflects his unwavering commitment to ecological vineyard management, low-intervention winemaking and a personal artistry that has been honed over seven generations. The Jean-Marc Seleque, Les Gouttes d'Or Premier Cru, Pierry 2016 offers discerning enthusiasts a captivating experience of the traditional Champagne method through a compelling modern lens.

Exuding finesse and complexity, the Nicolas Maillart Franc de Pied Extra Brut 2005 is a masterful creation of this esteemed ninth-generation producer. Born from the fertile soils of Montagne de Reims, in the heart of Champagne, France, this vintage is a rare jewel, boasting a 100% Pinot Noir composition. Crafted from un-grafted vines, known as 'Franc de Pied,' this technique imparts a distinctive intensity and purity to the wine. The vineyard's sustainable farming practices further elevate the natural integrity of the grapes.

Meticulous vinification in small oak barrels instills depth, structure, and texture to this mesmerizing Extra Brut. On the palate, expect a lively interplay of juicy quince and bright citrus, underscored by a tantalizing mineral edge. Exhibiting a harmonious balance between power and subtlety, the Nicolas Maillart Franc de Pied Extra Brut 2005 is an embodiment of Champagne's sophisticated terroir and Maillart's exceptional winemaking legacy.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Full bottle 1,697 g. From vineyards including the historic plots at Le Léon in Aÿ, complemented by Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. Red wines from Mareuil. 72% Pinot Noir and 28% Chardonnay. Dosage 4.5 g/l, eight years sur latte, disgorged March 2019. 5,212 bottles. Long and racy. Bitter orange oils and raspberry-leaf tea, more than a little minty but with the cool-hit lift and bite of wasabi powder, fine-ground chalk and river pebbles, cumin powder, white pepper. Enormously complex but clenched as tight as a fist. White raspberries, grapefruit, redcurrants. Precision, finger-nail-pressed origami folds, so sharp the fruit has paper cuts. Exciting. Exacting. Tense yet creamy. Spice defines the finish and brings it to a close that feels like an unfinished poem. So you take another sip.

Savor the effervescent elegance of R. Pouillon & Fils Les Blanchiens Premier Cru 2016, a testament to French winemaking artistry. Exclusively grown in the iconic Premier Cru vineyards of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the grapes are given a tender touch as they are hand-harvested. The producer, R. Pouillon & Fils, renowned for their century-long legacy and commitment to sustainability, painstakingly ages this Brut Nature on lees for three years, enhancing the depth and fullness of its expression.

A lovely blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, its distinct character presents a rich sensorial journey with nuanced hints of apple, pear, and yeasty brioche, graced with a crisp, lively finish. R. Pouillon & Fils Les Blanchiens Premier Cru 2016’s savoir-faire and earth-conscious cultivation celebrate the enduring essence of Champagne's terroir, capturing an exquisite vinous harmony in every bottle. Savour its vivacious charm—a radiant accompaniment to life’s memorable moments.

Vinous (96)

The 2013 Brut Coeur de Cuvée is fabulous, not to mention and absolute must-buy for Vilmart fans. All of the tension of the late harvest comes through in a Champagne that dazzles with tension and energy. Bright acids drive a core of Chardonnay fruit. Citrus, white pepper, white flowers and crushed rocks abound. Readers should be in no rush to open the 2013, it's a wine for the cellar. Disgorged: December, 2020.

Vinous (94)

The 2014 Brut Coeur de Cuvée impresses with its density and overall energy. Apricot, baked apple tart, spice, chamomile and lightly honeyed accents all meld together. The 2014 is deep and beautifully centered, with tons of poise and impeccable balance. It's a pretty big wine by Vilmart standards, and yet all the elements are so well put together. The blend is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Disgorged: March, 2021.

Vinous (92)

The NV Brut Grand Cellier is bright, effusive and wonderfully charming. White flowers, chalk, mint and lemon confit give this mid-weight, nervy Champagne tons of energy. All the elements are so nicely put together. I especially like the energy and crystalline purity here. There are a lot of terrific wines in this range, but the Grand Cellier is quintessentially Vilmart. This release is based on 2019, with the addition of reserve wines from 2018. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2022.

Vinous (96)

The 2009 Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies is every bit as stunning as it was last year. The combination of the warm year and the natural richness conferred by these 70+- year-old vines yields a powerful, vinous Champagne with tremendous character, depth and the pedigree to drink well for many years. Laurent Champs gave the Blanc de Blancs 7 years on the cork, as opposed to the 6 that are customary for the Coeur de Cuvée. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2017.

Vinous (95)

The 2012 Extra-Brut Les Blanc de Blancs Blanches Voies is stellar. It offers tons of brilliance and energy, especially for a year in which most wines are quite a bit more radiant. It's a style that works quite well here, though. Crushed rocks, white pepper, mint and lemon peel all build as the 2012 shows off its alluring, saline-infused personality. This is an especially chiseled, finely cut 2012. I loved it. Disgorged: June, 2020.