Vinous (96)

The 2015 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has an immediately seductive, extremely pure bouquet of bright red fruit, strawberry and cranberry; hints of blueberry surface with aeration. The oak is very well integrated, and with continued aeration in the glass, the raspberry component becomes more expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit encased by grippy, slightly firm tannins. This is a very serious Grand Cru, extraordinarily focused and full of tension; the mouth still tingles 60 seconds after it has exited. A consummate expression of a great Burgundy vintage. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Indulge in the exquisite craftsmanship of Bertagna Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2015. This unrivalled synergy of terroir, expertise, and tradition is hailing from the renowned Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. As the fifth generation wine producer, the Bertagna family brings the meticulous dedication, producing a Grand Cru with an arresting, yet delicate complexity.

The Burgundian secret to this enchanting wine lies in fermentation in wooden barrels lending it an unparalleled structure. Aged for 18 months in new oak barrels, it radiates a ruby red hue emanating aromas of wild berries and spices.

On the palate, Bertagna Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2015 offers an impressive depth of flavor with a harmoniously balanced acidity. It unfolds the dark fruit notes effortlessly melded with velvety tannins, guiding towards an enduring, elegant finish. This bottle captures the essence of Burgundian finesse while pushing the boundaries of Pinot Noir expression. Embrace the indulgent journey of tasting this gem from Bertagna's stellar portfolio.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1936, and was raised in three barrels this year (two of them new.) It has a clean, precise tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, raspberry preserve, pressed iris and subtle undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, quite masculine compared to the Clos de la Roche, and shows firmer grip and persistence on the chalky finish. Very fine and quite cerebral.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (93-96)

Deep, bright red. Urgent crushed cherry and red raspberry fruit aromas are complicated and lifted by rose petal, white pepper, citrus peel and sexy oak; an essence of Clos Saint-Denis. Rich, layered and deep but also wonderfully brisk, with an exhilarating element of blood orange contributing to the impression of razor-sharp definition. Finishes with fine-grained, noble tannins, subtle rising length and a magically weightless impression. A wine of compelling purity and class, this beauty should be long-lived. The yield here was 30 hectoliters per hectare and the pH is 3.4, according to Stehly. Incidentally, this estate is the largest owner of vines in Clos Saint-Denis, at 1.49 hectares. Stehly picks this fruit in the morning because he uses a smaller tank in which it would be harder to chill the grapes. He continues to sell some of his Clos Saint-Denis to Lucien Le Moine, Marchand-Tawse and Jadot, noting that his clients supply their own barrels and take the wines, with their lees, in January. (He also sells some of his Clos de la Roche.)

Vinous (91-94)

(half of these vines are 70 years old, the other half 60): Moderately saturated medium red. Musky, soil-driven scents of fresh red fruits, crushed rock, flint and rose petal. Penetrating and sharply delineated, offering terrific intensity to its flavors of red berries, sappy cherry, minerals and blood orange. At once salty and juicy, this very long wine leaves the palate perfumed. Stehly compares this wine to a Musigny in its youthful strictness, and it strikes me as a classic young Clos Saint-Denis that will need time in bottle to expand. Stehly used to work mostly with spicy Cadus barrels for this wine but now uses one-third each Berthomieu and Tonnelerie du Val du Loire for his Clos Saint-Denis, as he feels these barrels are at once sweeter and more delicate.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru shows quite a bit of reduction on the nose though there appears to be satisfactory fruit underneath. The palate is chewy and quite dense, though I am seeking more nerve and mineralité on its "blocky" finish.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a cohesive, focused bouquet of intense red currant, wild strawberry and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity and slightly angular tannins that will be softened with time. I appreciate the energy and backbone of this Grand Cru. Excellent.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

One of the highlights of the portfolio is the 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru (Domaine Gagey), a lovely wine that bursts with aromas of rose petals, deep red fruits, sweet soil tones, raw cocoa and cinnamon. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with lively acids, considerable concentration and an ample endowment of fine-grained tannin. This will require and reward patience.

Tim Atkin MW (96)

Punchy red fruits sing on the nose: pomegranate seeds, fresh cranberries and kirsch. Fabulously pure fruits soak the full-bodied palate encased in suave tannins and fresh acidity. This is focused and chiselled with excellent terroir clarity. Woodsy spice and leather notes mingle with the long, fruit-filled finish. 2025-40

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a pastille-like purity on the nose with sensual red cherries, redcurrant and cranberry aromas all deftly entwined with the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins. It's structured and bold, though it lacks the finesse that is implied by the bouquet. Solid, but a bit unwieldy at the moment.

Wine Advocate (98)

The single-vineyard Sorte O Soro had not been produced since 2016, and the 2019 Sorte O Soro is the next vintage after that. This plot has always shown additional elegance, freshness and salinity since he started vinifying it in 2004, because of the altitude (710 meters above sea level) and the north exposure to the Bibei Valley, where the old clone is planted on fine granite sand and quartz soils. Like As Sortes, this Sorte also fermented and matured with lees in new 500-liter French oak barrels for eight months. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.12 and higher acidity (at 7.5 grams) than the rest of the 2019s. It feels very harmonious, elegant and nuanced with some creaminess, with notes of wet pollen and yellow flowers. The palate reflects the soil, with vibrant granite and very fine sand and electric quartz (saline), and it's also round and powerful from the clone that is planted in the vineyard. This vineyard is in the process of being organically and biodynamically certified. 2,240 bottles were filled in September 2020. I tasted the 2019s and 2020s from Rafa Palacios in Valdeorras. For him, these are two very good years. 2019 had a mild and dry winter and a rainy and cold spring that delayed budding, followed by a mild summer with fewer hours of sunshine, which meant a delay in the ripening process. Harvest was more than one month later than usual, and the grapes achieved very slow ripening and full development of aromas and flavors while keeping the acidity. The harvest started in October and finished in November. It's a beautiful, homogeneous vintage with very good wines. 2020 saw a moderately cool and rainy winter and a dry and cold spring that resulted in 20% less bunches than in 2019. The summer was also quite dry but, fortunately, not too hot. Given the low yields, maturation was accelerated, and the harvest began at the beginning of September for Louro and from September 25th for As Sortes. Given the scarce water, the plants had to work harder deep down into the soil, which marked the wines; the silica and quartz from the sandy soils of O Bolo shaped a saline identity and the wines achieved a lot of elegance and balance. It's a more heterogeneous vintage, and the higher-altitude vineyards behaved better. The 2020 O Soro is out of this world. He gave me a quick preview of the very cold 2021, a vin de garde vintage but a challenging year with a lot of rain. They are in the process of certifying their vineyards (organic and biodynamic), but they have some problems in the vineyards with neighbors who are not organic, so it will probably be faster for O Soro and Sorte Antiga.

Decanter (98)

Sampled from a vat, this is one of the best As Sortes I have ever tasted, comparable to the iconic 2011. It's a prodigy of subtleness and elegance. Everything is firmly delicate in this wine. Restrained aromas open up parsimoniously, with a steely structure like a great Burgundy, but with flinty acidity almost like Grosses Gewächs from Rheingau. Despite the fact that the sample was not yet bottled, the wine had no oak influence, just the indication that it had been aged, as top Godello must. Rafael Palacios is refining his work year after year, reaching the magic of the greatest wines. A top wine, and one to keep.

Vinous (91)

The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has quite an intense bouquet with red berry fruit, touches of blackcurrant, pain d'épice and sous-bois. This seems to grow and deepen in the glass, developing some unnecessary headiness and then, as if skulking from out of a darkened corner, noticeable and sadly compromising Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with quite thick and dense tannins. Backward and rather surly, this is a serious Clos Saint-Denis, more dark than light, with some dryness and austerity on the finish. Like reading Dostoevsky when you just want a simple page-turner. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2015 O Diviso felt closed, more reticent, and seems more powerful, despite the fact they did a nonextractive vinification; they did nothing and let the wine ferment at its own pace. This matured in one 600-liter oak barrel, and this is the only red that has a slight note from the oak. There is also a relevant amount of Garnacha Tintorera, so the combination of a warm year, the small barrel and the varietal mix resulted in a more austere and backward wine that is going to require more time in bottle. The fruit is darker and the wine is more powerful than the 2014. It might evolve with time in bottle, because it certainly has the stuffing to do so, but today As Caborcas was singing, and I have to give it the edge. 895 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.