Vinous (95)

(two barrels produced, vs. a normal eight): Bright, pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of lemon gelato and wild herbs. Very complex, pure and refined, boasting an utterly silky, seamless texture to its intense citrus peel, fresh herb and mineral flavors. Really outstanding inner-mouth energy here, followed by a slowly mounting finish that saturates the taste buds. A great wine in the making, but not for drinking anytime soon. (I found the 2017 version a bit juicier and fruitier, and there will be ten barrels of the younger vintage as the crop level was generous.) According to winemaker Frédéric Barnier, 2017 has more sweetness as a vintage, but while the '17 Chevalier-Montrachet is round, opulent and tasty, the '16 is extremely pure, fresh and linear, and will expand with time in the cellar. But even today it's silky, tactile, edge-free and extremely long.

James Suckling (96)

Very attractive and fresh aromas of wet stones and fine limes with youthful peaches and green mango. The scintillatingly long and powerful palate is pinned in place with bracing acidity and has unwavering length of peaches and citrus fruit. Breathtaking finish. Drink or hold.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselles Grand Cru is beautifully defined on the nose, featuring wonderful crushed limestone and gunflint scents that permeate the green apple aromas. Very focused and intense. The palate is extremely well balanced with a powerful opening, very saline and so full of energy. Enormous weight and presence toward the finish. This is an outstanding Chevalier-Montrachet from Jadot.

Wine Advocate (95-97)

The king of the cellar on the white side of the ledger is the 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot), a striking wine that unfurls in the glass with notes of citrus oil, white flowers, buttered popcorn, chalky soil tones, beeswax and spices. Full-bodied, multidimensional and layered, it's muscular and concentrated, with racy acids, an abundance of structuring dry extract and a long, resonant finish. It is worth a special effort to seek out.

Vinous (95-97)

The 2021 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselles Grand Cru is a step up from the Bâtard-Montrachet in terms of complexity and mineralité. Yellow plum and pressed flower hints emerge and lend more complexity with time. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity. This Chevalier gathers momentum towards a detailed, lightly spiced finish with just the right amount of extract. The 2021 has real pedigree.

Burghound (97)

(Don't Miss!) A discreet but not invisible touch of wood sets off the notably more floral-suffused aromas of citrus confit, exotic tea, anise and white peach. The gorgeously textured large-scaled flavors possess outstanding cut and minerality that contrasts with the exceptionally dry, austere and massively long finish. This strikingly pure effort is packed with potential but note well that it's not likely to be a wine that permits early accessibility. In sum, this is a classic Chevalier in the making, but patience will absolutely be required.

Vinous (93-94)

(this was racked off its lees the day before my visit and was slated to be bottled before the 2011 harvest): Slightly cloudy yellow. Aromas of peach, apple, spices and crushed stone, with a hint of noble reduction. At once chewy and smooth, with a distinctly taut quality to its flavors of apricot, minerals, anise and flint. Finishes saline and powerful, with a flavor of custard pie as well as a note of grapefruit pith that tickles the taste buds. Lots of aging potential here.

Wine Advocate (93)

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevalier Grand Cru has a slightly muffled bouquet compared to its peers, needing to muster more precision and mineral expression. The palate is fresh on the entry with a smooth and lightly honeyed texture, vanilla and white chocolate notes from the new oak, perhaps a little too generous for a wine of this standing yet undeniably quite delicious. Tasted May 2016.

Vinous (94-96)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos de Chevaliers Grand Cru totals 6 barrels this year. Wonderful mineralité on the nose here: this is tensile, energetic with a subtle sea cave aroma that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with discrete tropical veins towards the harmonious finish, a hint of frangipane on the aftertaste. Superb. Closure: Diam 30

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 25, the earliest harvest in the history of the Domaine Leflaive, and the resulting wine was another of the sleepers in this tasting, unfurling in the glass with an attractive bouquet of white flowers, fresh peach, tangerine, pear, pastry cream and warm bread. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, expansive and satiny textured, with a layered and open-knit core that's fleshy but lively, concluding with a long and precise finish. This is a forward Chevalier from Leflaive that's already drinking well, but it's a superb effort.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru dominates the range this year, wafting from the glass with notes of waxy citrus zest, white flowers, nutmeg and wet stones, followed by a full-bodied, racy and electric palate, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, seamless mid-palate. Chiseled and concentrated, uniting texture and tension, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.

Wine Advocate (98)

The single-vineyard Sorte O Soro had not been produced since 2016, and the 2019 Sorte O Soro is the next vintage after that. This plot has always shown additional elegance, freshness and salinity since he started vinifying it in 2004, because of the altitude (710 meters above sea level) and the north exposure to the Bibei Valley, where the old clone is planted on fine granite sand and quartz soils. Like As Sortes, this Sorte also fermented and matured with lees in new 500-liter French oak barrels for eight months. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.12 and higher acidity (at 7.5 grams) than the rest of the 2019s. It feels very harmonious, elegant and nuanced with some creaminess, with notes of wet pollen and yellow flowers. The palate reflects the soil, with vibrant granite and very fine sand and electric quartz (saline), and it's also round and powerful from the clone that is planted in the vineyard. This vineyard is in the process of being organically and biodynamically certified. 2,240 bottles were filled in September 2020. I tasted the 2019s and 2020s from Rafa Palacios in Valdeorras. For him, these are two very good years. 2019 had a mild and dry winter and a rainy and cold spring that delayed budding, followed by a mild summer with fewer hours of sunshine, which meant a delay in the ripening process. Harvest was more than one month later than usual, and the grapes achieved very slow ripening and full development of aromas and flavors while keeping the acidity. The harvest started in October and finished in November. It's a beautiful, homogeneous vintage with very good wines. 2020 saw a moderately cool and rainy winter and a dry and cold spring that resulted in 20% less bunches than in 2019. The summer was also quite dry but, fortunately, not too hot. Given the low yields, maturation was accelerated, and the harvest began at the beginning of September for Louro and from September 25th for As Sortes. Given the scarce water, the plants had to work harder deep down into the soil, which marked the wines; the silica and quartz from the sandy soils of O Bolo shaped a saline identity and the wines achieved a lot of elegance and balance. It's a more heterogeneous vintage, and the higher-altitude vineyards behaved better. The 2020 O Soro is out of this world. He gave me a quick preview of the very cold 2021, a vin de garde vintage but a challenging year with a lot of rain. They are in the process of certifying their vineyards (organic and biodynamic), but they have some problems in the vineyards with neighbors who are not organic, so it will probably be faster for O Soro and Sorte Antiga.

Decanter (98)

Sampled from a vat, this is one of the best As Sortes I have ever tasted, comparable to the iconic 2011. It's a prodigy of subtleness and elegance. Everything is firmly delicate in this wine. Restrained aromas open up parsimoniously, with a steely structure like a great Burgundy, but with flinty acidity almost like Grosses Gewächs from Rheingau. Despite the fact that the sample was not yet bottled, the wine had no oak influence, just the indication that it had been aged, as top Godello must. Rafael Palacios is refining his work year after year, reaching the magic of the greatest wines. A top wine, and one to keep.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2015 O Diviso felt closed, more reticent, and seems more powerful, despite the fact they did a nonextractive vinification; they did nothing and let the wine ferment at its own pace. This matured in one 600-liter oak barrel, and this is the only red that has a slight note from the oak. There is also a relevant amount of Garnacha Tintorera, so the combination of a warm year, the small barrel and the varietal mix resulted in a more austere and backward wine that is going to require more time in bottle. The fruit is darker and the wine is more powerful than the 2014. It might evolve with time in bottle, because it certainly has the stuffing to do so, but today As Caborcas was singing, and I have to give it the edge. 895 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.