Filled with grandeur, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 is a fine gem from the Côte de Nuits region in Burgundy, France. This robust red, by renowned winemaker Pierre Bart, is a testament to the depth of his 6 generations-worth viticulture command.

Made from aged Pinot Noir vines, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 is noted for its sumptuous layers of complexity. Its 18-month maturation in oak barrels imparts a hint of spice that pairs exquisitely with its rich fruit undertones. A waft of crushed red cherries and wild raspberries encapsulates the essence of the wine's terroir, whilst a gentle touch of mineral inflection evokes the limestone-rich soil of the vineyard.

Exuding sensuality yet profoundly structured, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 treads flawlessly between power and elegance, drawing devoted followers. A wine of such mesmerising depth, it remains ever-engaging as it evolves in the glass over time.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)

This is all on the red soil part of Bonnes Mares, vinified with 100% whole bunches. Pretty lighter brighter colour, some reduction, then whole bunch strawberries. Generous fruit on the palate, quite complex, very stylish and with fine promise. A fine long aftertaste.

Vinous (94)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a limpid deep purple. It has a heavenly bouquet distantly related to the Les Amoureuses, offering precocious but detailed blueberry, black cherry, crushed iris petal and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with an edgy, marine-influenced opening, a tang of shucked oyster shells infusing the black and blueberry fruit, leading to a detailed, tensile, lightly spiced finish. A long tail of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. This is absolutely divine.

Burghound (93-95)

(from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard). A riper and more restrained nose requires some swirling to reveal its aromas of plum liqueur, blue berry, earth and a more restricted range of spice elements. The bigger and richer flavors possess an opulent richness and a velvety texture that coats the palate and enrobes the firmer tannic spine shaping the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly persistent finale. This offers a completely different expression compared to the Amoureuses but one that is equally interesting. This too possesses superb development potential though patience definitely advised. (93-95)/2039+

This is for fans of old-school Burgundy. Beautiful aromatics, rich fruit and toasty new oak. It will need cellaring but will be worth the wait.

Wine Advocate (90-92)

The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around 35% whole bunch fruit and around 60% new oak. It has an open, quite transparent bouquet with mineral-tinged black fruit, a hint of Seville orange marmalade lurking in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares good backbone and a little more masculinity than previous vintages. I like the density here, but it just needs to flow a little more towards the strict, linear finish.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Quite deep crimson. Pretty damned dramatic on the nose! Very charmingly fruity and rich. There’s no doubt about this wine’s grand cru status. So sweet and smooth! But with spice underneath and real persistence. Very long and satisfying.

Vinous (94-96)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains 30% whole clusters. It has a perfumed bouquet of blackberry, hints of cassis, crushed violet and touches of potpourri, very well defined and focused and delivering the intensity one expects from this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and just the right amount of acidity. Wonderful harmony and composure here, gently unfolding toward a satin-textured finish that lingers long in the mouth. Bon vin!

Vinous (92+)

Palish red with a hint of amber. A bit cooler and more peppery than the Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de la Roche, with its reticent red fruit aromas complicated by herbs and menthol. Then densely packed, savory and intense, more about soil tones than primary fruit. Not a sweet style but youthfully penetrating. Finishes sweet, slightly medicinal and classically dry, with lingering salty and spicy qualities. A rather rigorous wine in the context of the vintage, but then this is Bonnes-Mares, which has traditionally been one of Burgundy's longest-aging grand crus.

Vinous (94+)

Bright medium red. Knockout high-pitched aromas of red berries, peony and orange peel. Boasts compelling subtle density and sharp definition to its taut flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice, spices and minerals. In its juicy sappiness, this is like chewing on a ripe cherry. A classic Bonnes-Mares, offering superb volume without any undue weight. And an outstanding example of what phenolically ripe fruit could make in this cool vintage.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Dark crimson. Juicy and alluring on the nose. And then wonderfully rich and exciting on the palate. Great intensity and majesty. Woo hoo! Long and gorgeous.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-100)

All three cuvées, white soil, red soil and the new plot, have been blended. Overall two-thirds of the blend comes from white soil Bonnes Mares. Two thirds whole bunch, one third new wood. Glowing rich purple, with a beautiful bouquet demonstrating exquisitely balanced fruit. Ripe of course but there are some red threads in with the darker fruit, fine acidity too, just a sumptuous covering of exquisite dark raspberry and a little touch of blackberry. Bravo! There is a lovely covering of flesh on top of natural vivacity.

Wine Enthusiast (96)

This is a sumptuous wine, rich and full of both fruit and a cushioned structure. The generosity of this beautifully perfumed wine is considerable, giving juicy fruits as well as acidity. It has great aging potential so don't drink before 2026.

Vinous (91-94)

Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of raspberry, minerals and dried flowers complicated by torrefaction notes of mocha and coffee. Round on entry, then sappy in the middle, showing terrific crushed raspberry intensity along with saline, mocha, spice and earth notes. This very taut, energetic wine is even more backward than the Amoureuses. Really saturates the palate on the back end, finishing with outstanding smoky persistence.

Wine Advocate (98)

The single-vineyard Sorte O Soro had not been produced since 2016, and the 2019 Sorte O Soro is the next vintage after that. This plot has always shown additional elegance, freshness and salinity since he started vinifying it in 2004, because of the altitude (710 meters above sea level) and the north exposure to the Bibei Valley, where the old clone is planted on fine granite sand and quartz soils. Like As Sortes, this Sorte also fermented and matured with lees in new 500-liter French oak barrels for eight months. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.12 and higher acidity (at 7.5 grams) than the rest of the 2019s. It feels very harmonious, elegant and nuanced with some creaminess, with notes of wet pollen and yellow flowers. The palate reflects the soil, with vibrant granite and very fine sand and electric quartz (saline), and it's also round and powerful from the clone that is planted in the vineyard. This vineyard is in the process of being organically and biodynamically certified. 2,240 bottles were filled in September 2020. I tasted the 2019s and 2020s from Rafa Palacios in Valdeorras. For him, these are two very good years. 2019 had a mild and dry winter and a rainy and cold spring that delayed budding, followed by a mild summer with fewer hours of sunshine, which meant a delay in the ripening process. Harvest was more than one month later than usual, and the grapes achieved very slow ripening and full development of aromas and flavors while keeping the acidity. The harvest started in October and finished in November. It's a beautiful, homogeneous vintage with very good wines. 2020 saw a moderately cool and rainy winter and a dry and cold spring that resulted in 20% less bunches than in 2019. The summer was also quite dry but, fortunately, not too hot. Given the low yields, maturation was accelerated, and the harvest began at the beginning of September for Louro and from September 25th for As Sortes. Given the scarce water, the plants had to work harder deep down into the soil, which marked the wines; the silica and quartz from the sandy soils of O Bolo shaped a saline identity and the wines achieved a lot of elegance and balance. It's a more heterogeneous vintage, and the higher-altitude vineyards behaved better. The 2020 O Soro is out of this world. He gave me a quick preview of the very cold 2021, a vin de garde vintage but a challenging year with a lot of rain. They are in the process of certifying their vineyards (organic and biodynamic), but they have some problems in the vineyards with neighbors who are not organic, so it will probably be faster for O Soro and Sorte Antiga.

Decanter (98)

Sampled from a vat, this is one of the best As Sortes I have ever tasted, comparable to the iconic 2011. It's a prodigy of subtleness and elegance. Everything is firmly delicate in this wine. Restrained aromas open up parsimoniously, with a steely structure like a great Burgundy, but with flinty acidity almost like Grosses Gewächs from Rheingau. Despite the fact that the sample was not yet bottled, the wine had no oak influence, just the indication that it had been aged, as top Godello must. Rafael Palacios is refining his work year after year, reaching the magic of the greatest wines. A top wine, and one to keep.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2015 O Diviso felt closed, more reticent, and seems more powerful, despite the fact they did a nonextractive vinification; they did nothing and let the wine ferment at its own pace. This matured in one 600-liter oak barrel, and this is the only red that has a slight note from the oak. There is also a relevant amount of Garnacha Tintorera, so the combination of a warm year, the small barrel and the varietal mix resulted in a more austere and backward wine that is going to require more time in bottle. The fruit is darker and the wine is more powerful than the 2014. It might evolve with time in bottle, because it certainly has the stuffing to do so, but today As Caborcas was singing, and I have to give it the edge. 895 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.