On the nose, faint ripples of sweet wood smoke and tart crème fraîche flow gently into bold notes of savoury fennel, celeriac and roasted tea leaves. Plunge further and discover alluring aromas of charcoal and lightly burnt toast. A splash of water releases a gust of fresh sea spray, followed by eucalyptus oil and pine. Finally, this irresistible nose ends with an unmistakable top note of saddle soap and leather. An intensely salty mouthfeel shifts like the tides into soothing medicinal notes, followed by salted peanut brittle, smoked pineapple and lime juice. Waves of aniseed lap over the palate, before rich fudge, birch tar and peat smoke crash down wildly. This is a dram that coaxes you in, and all assumptions are best left behind. Simply let this alluring spirit surprise and delight. Savoury and smoky notes collide in a sharp, intense, yet satisfyingly long finish

Vinous (96)

The 2015 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has an immediately seductive, extremely pure bouquet of bright red fruit, strawberry and cranberry; hints of blueberry surface with aeration. The oak is very well integrated, and with continued aeration in the glass, the raspberry component becomes more expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit encased by grippy, slightly firm tannins. This is a very serious Grand Cru, extraordinarily focused and full of tension; the mouth still tingles 60 seconds after it has exited. A consummate expression of a great Burgundy vintage. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Indulge in the exquisite craftsmanship of Bertagna Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2015. This unrivalled synergy of terroir, expertise, and tradition is hailing from the renowned Côte de Nuits in Burgundy. As the fifth generation wine producer, the Bertagna family brings the meticulous dedication, producing a Grand Cru with an arresting, yet delicate complexity.

The Burgundian secret to this enchanting wine lies in fermentation in wooden barrels lending it an unparalleled structure. Aged for 18 months in new oak barrels, it radiates a ruby red hue emanating aromas of wild berries and spices.

On the palate, Bertagna Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2015 offers an impressive depth of flavor with a harmoniously balanced acidity. It unfolds the dark fruit notes effortlessly melded with velvety tannins, guiding towards an enduring, elegant finish. This bottle captures the essence of Burgundian finesse while pushing the boundaries of Pinot Noir expression. Embrace the indulgent journey of tasting this gem from Bertagna's stellar portfolio.

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

Bunnahabhain is a truly special distillery and there are few independent bottlers who have managed to secure more impressive casks from this unique Islay distillery than Signatory. Also trust them to exercise such supreme patience as to wait until this reached perfection at 42 years of age! Very few distilleries can hit such an advanced age without falling apart but Bunnahabhain's finely honed spirit is uniquely balanced and perfect for extensive maturation. Matured in a refill sherry butt and bottled at natural cask strength of 47.9% with incredible finesse, dried fruit flavours and an elegant spiciness. 427 bottles filled in 2016.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

The very high quality of ageing vessel gives an elegant interpretation of Caol Ila's classic peat. Medicinal and iodine are the predominant scents that fit well into the whole aromatic structure that supports and accompanies it. Tones of medicinal herbs, vanilla, leather in the background and licorice complete it and make it complex enough to let us fly with imagination. Just 161 bottles filled from a single cask at 45% ABV.

A single cask Islay malt matured in undersized ex-Bourbon barrels previously used to mature Bourbon whiskey at the Koval Distillery, showcasing Caol Ila’s classic oily maritime qualities with aromas of sweet, earthy peat, sea breeze and iodine alongside pungent, warming spices evoking cinnamon, cumin, smoked pepper and cardamom. A finish laced with eucalyptus and dried mint makes for a restrained, finessed Islay with a long, dynamic finish. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 58.1% without colouring or filtration.

The second bottling from the Stewart Whisky Company in their Stiùbhart Single Cask selection, released in March 2021 at 13 years of age in a limited run of just 132 bottles.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1936, and was raised in three barrels this year (two of them new.) It has a clean, precise tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, raspberry preserve, pressed iris and subtle undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, quite masculine compared to the Clos de la Roche, and shows firmer grip and persistence on the chalky finish. Very fine and quite cerebral.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (93-96)

Deep, bright red. Urgent crushed cherry and red raspberry fruit aromas are complicated and lifted by rose petal, white pepper, citrus peel and sexy oak; an essence of Clos Saint-Denis. Rich, layered and deep but also wonderfully brisk, with an exhilarating element of blood orange contributing to the impression of razor-sharp definition. Finishes with fine-grained, noble tannins, subtle rising length and a magically weightless impression. A wine of compelling purity and class, this beauty should be long-lived. The yield here was 30 hectoliters per hectare and the pH is 3.4, according to Stehly. Incidentally, this estate is the largest owner of vines in Clos Saint-Denis, at 1.49 hectares. Stehly picks this fruit in the morning because he uses a smaller tank in which it would be harder to chill the grapes. He continues to sell some of his Clos Saint-Denis to Lucien Le Moine, Marchand-Tawse and Jadot, noting that his clients supply their own barrels and take the wines, with their lees, in January. (He also sells some of his Clos de la Roche.)

Vinous (91-94)

(half of these vines are 70 years old, the other half 60): Moderately saturated medium red. Musky, soil-driven scents of fresh red fruits, crushed rock, flint and rose petal. Penetrating and sharply delineated, offering terrific intensity to its flavors of red berries, sappy cherry, minerals and blood orange. At once salty and juicy, this very long wine leaves the palate perfumed. Stehly compares this wine to a Musigny in its youthful strictness, and it strikes me as a classic young Clos Saint-Denis that will need time in bottle to expand. Stehly used to work mostly with spicy Cadus barrels for this wine but now uses one-third each Berthomieu and Tonnelerie du Val du Loire for his Clos Saint-Denis, as he feels these barrels are at once sweeter and more delicate.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru shows quite a bit of reduction on the nose though there appears to be satisfactory fruit underneath. The palate is chewy and quite dense, though I am seeking more nerve and mineralité on its "blocky" finish.

Always one of the most eagerly awaited of the annual Special Releases, this latest edition of the Lagavulin 12 year old cask strength is perhaps one of the best to date. Bottled with even more vigour and classic intensity than the standard distillery bottling of the 16, the 2020 Special Release is quintessential Islay without a doubt. A whisky that offers wave after wave of citrus-and-clove-infused peat with a coastal salinity and nuanced power, this is a genre-defining Lagavulin that will no doubt become a sought-after darling of the collector's market before long, much as its predecessors have.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a cohesive, focused bouquet of intense red currant, wild strawberry and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity and slightly angular tannins that will be softened with time. I appreciate the energy and backbone of this Grand Cru. Excellent.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

One of the highlights of the portfolio is the 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru (Domaine Gagey), a lovely wine that bursts with aromas of rose petals, deep red fruits, sweet soil tones, raw cocoa and cinnamon. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with lively acids, considerable concentration and an ample endowment of fine-grained tannin. This will require and reward patience.

Tim Atkin MW (96)

Punchy red fruits sing on the nose: pomegranate seeds, fresh cranberries and kirsch. Fabulously pure fruits soak the full-bodied palate encased in suave tannins and fresh acidity. This is focused and chiselled with excellent terroir clarity. Woodsy spice and leather notes mingle with the long, fruit-filled finish. 2025-40

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a pastille-like purity on the nose with sensual red cherries, redcurrant and cranberry aromas all deftly entwined with the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins. It's structured and bold, though it lacks the finesse that is implied by the bouquet. Solid, but a bit unwieldy at the moment.

Vinous (91)

The 2018 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has quite an intense bouquet with red berry fruit, touches of blackcurrant, pain d'épice and sous-bois. This seems to grow and deepen in the glass, developing some unnecessary headiness and then, as if skulking from out of a darkened corner, noticeable and sadly compromising Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with quite thick and dense tannins. Backward and rather surly, this is a serious Clos Saint-Denis, more dark than light, with some dryness and austerity on the finish. Like reading Dostoevsky when you just want a simple page-turner. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.