On the nose, faint ripples of sweet wood smoke and tart crème fraîche flow gently into bold notes of savoury fennel, celeriac and roasted tea leaves. Plunge further and discover alluring aromas of charcoal and lightly burnt toast. A splash of water releases a gust of fresh sea spray, followed by eucalyptus oil and pine. Finally, this irresistible nose ends with an unmistakable top note of saddle soap and leather. An intensely salty mouthfeel shifts like the tides into soothing medicinal notes, followed by salted peanut brittle, smoked pineapple and lime juice. Waves of aniseed lap over the palate, before rich fudge, birch tar and peat smoke crash down wildly. This is a dram that coaxes you in, and all assumptions are best left behind. Simply let this alluring spirit surprise and delight. Savoury and smoky notes collide in a sharp, intense, yet satisfyingly long finish

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

Bunnahabhain is a truly special distillery and there are few independent bottlers who have managed to secure more impressive casks from this unique Islay distillery than Signatory. Also trust them to exercise such supreme patience as to wait until this reached perfection at 42 years of age! Very few distilleries can hit such an advanced age without falling apart but Bunnahabhain's finely honed spirit is uniquely balanced and perfect for extensive maturation. Matured in a refill sherry butt and bottled at natural cask strength of 47.9% with incredible finesse, dried fruit flavours and an elegant spiciness. 427 bottles filled in 2016.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

The very high quality of ageing vessel gives an elegant interpretation of Caol Ila's classic peat. Medicinal and iodine are the predominant scents that fit well into the whole aromatic structure that supports and accompanies it. Tones of medicinal herbs, vanilla, leather in the background and licorice complete it and make it complex enough to let us fly with imagination. Just 161 bottles filled from a single cask at 45% ABV.

A single cask Islay malt matured in undersized ex-Bourbon barrels previously used to mature Bourbon whiskey at the Koval Distillery, showcasing Caol Ila’s classic oily maritime qualities with aromas of sweet, earthy peat, sea breeze and iodine alongside pungent, warming spices evoking cinnamon, cumin, smoked pepper and cardamom. A finish laced with eucalyptus and dried mint makes for a restrained, finessed Islay with a long, dynamic finish. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 58.1% without colouring or filtration.

The second bottling from the Stewart Whisky Company in their Stiùbhart Single Cask selection, released in March 2021 at 13 years of age in a limited run of just 132 bottles.

Wine Enthusiast (95)

Powerful and structured, this wine is dark with black fruits. The rich fruit and acidity are surrounded by firm tannins provide a solid scaffolding. With acidity and tannins at the end, this complex wine will age slowly, so don't drink before 2022.

Vinous (93-96)

Bachelet's 2013 Charmes-Chambertin is striking. Translucent and pulsating in the glass, the 2013 possesses notable energy and fabulous overall balance. Dark red cherry, violet, leather and smoke gradually unfurl in a mysterious, beguiling Charmes that will provide fabulous drinking for many years.

Vinous (95-97)

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an airy and generous bouquet with lifted black fruit, hoisin and light roasted chestnut aromas, all well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a beautiful line of acidity, svelte and harmonious with a slightly grainy-textured finish. I adore the discrete crescendo in this Grand Cru and the unimposing but long aftertaste. "It’s been growing in stature over the last 10 to 15 years," remarked Alex Seysses. Proof of that is evident by tasting this superb Charmes-Chambertin.

Decanter (97)

Sourced from what Burgundians often call 'Charmes-Charmes' to distinguish it from the Mazoyères part of this extensive Grand Cru, this cuvée uses fruit from five different parcels, all but one of which is 40 years' old. Floral and intense, with 20% whole bunches adding some freshness and spice, this is a serious, well-upholstered Pinot Noir showing fine tannins and appealingly understated oak.

Vinous (96+)

The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru, under the négoce label, is a debut release from just 500 square meters of ancient vine acquired from a distant relative of the family; Pierre Duroché manages the vineyard and harvests the crop. This is aged in one new 150-liter barrel. It has a really entrancing bouquet that soars from the glass, offering pure red cherries, crushed strawberry, minerals and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, filigreed tannins. There is an unerring symmetry about this Chambertin, which is one of the best you will find in 2019. The persistence is astounding, though that is partially driven by the new wood. This will be fascinating to taste in bottle.

Jancis Robinson (17.5)

Barrel sample. Mid crimson. Less sweet-smelling than the Clos de Vougeot, with plenty of open, dark-red fruit and also a light herbal note, which lifts it and adds freshness. Firm and dry on the palate, dry yet elegant, the fruit filling out the core. Chalk-fine texture. A little constrained at the moment.

Wine Advocate (93-95)

Aromas of cassis, orange rind, smoked meats and loamy soil introduce Faiveley's 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, layered and demonstrative wine that's concentrated and succulent, with an ample core of ripe fruit framed by velvety tannins and lively acids. This is another especially fine cuvée this year.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 20% whole bunches, matured in one-third new oak. It has a gorgeous bouquet of cranberry and raspberry fruit with veins of cassis; later, brown spices emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, good depth and fine grip, perhaps just missing a little precision toward the finish but still very fine.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes has turned out even better than I anticipated, unfurling in the glass with a magical bouquet of cassis, plums and blackberries mingled with dark chocolate, spices, sweet soil tones, licorice and black truffle. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's extraordinarily sumptuous and concentrated, framed by velvety tannins that caress the palate, and underpinned by lively acids, concluding with a long and expansive finish. Pierre-Jean Roty compares it to the 2012 and 2009 renditions, which readers who follow this domaine will know is high praise indeed.

Always one of the most eagerly awaited of the annual Special Releases, this latest edition of the Lagavulin 12 year old cask strength is perhaps one of the best to date. Bottled with even more vigour and classic intensity than the standard distillery bottling of the 16, the 2020 Special Release is quintessential Islay without a doubt. A whisky that offers wave after wave of citrus-and-clove-infused peat with a coastal salinity and nuanced power, this is a genre-defining Lagavulin that will no doubt become a sought-after darling of the collector's market before long, much as its predecessors have.

Burghound (92-94)

This is cool and pure to the point of being almost timid with its restrained array of red currant, pomegranate, earthy and softly sauvage-inflected nose. There is fine intensity to the sleek and satin-textured flavors that are muscular yet dance across the palate on the saline and wonderfully refreshing finish. This is clearly built-to-age yet it's already inviting.

The Stephane Magnien Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 is the epitome of fine Burgundy wine, crafted by the fourth-generation vintner, Stephane Magnien. Cultivated in the renowned vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, this luxurious Grand Cru elegantly embodies the region's famed terroir. The wine’s cultivation is traditional, with the vineyards possessing an average age of 65 years, ensuring deep root growth and contributing a distinctive complexity to the wine.

The vinification processes involve thoughtful, gentle extraction techniques to preserve the wine's unique, full-bodied flavour. Matured in oak barrels for 15 to 18 months, it develops an irresistible blend with notes of wild berries, earthiness and compelling spices.

The Stephane Magnien Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2017 is an exceptional representation of Magnien's commitment to authenticity and his ability to subtly translate the vineyard's specificity into this spectacular cuvée. This collectable wine brings together tradition and sophistication, offering connoisseurs an extraordinary tasting experience.

Wine Advocate (93-95)

The 2015 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry coulis, a touch of honey and a hint of Seville orange marmalade. It opens nicely in the glass, though does not slip into fifth gear at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, cohesive in the mouth and quite saline and spicy. There is generosity here, a trait of Charmes-Chambertin, with the mineral core surfacing right at the finish as it fans out. This is an impressive follow-up to the superb 2014 and it should give 20+ years of pleasure.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)

Rich, exuberant purple. A cheerful nose, flamboyantly perfumed which is as Charmes should be. I very much like the balance of this, which is all in red fruit, succulent strawberry and raspberry, good acidity, no feeling of excess heat. 14.1% but holds it without difficulty. Tasted: December 2021

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres comes across a big, powerful and super intense. It bursts from the glass with huge dark fruit, freshly cut flowers, tar and licorice, all of which come together with notable intensity. The 2009 shows off superb textural richness all the way through to the finish. The Charmes is young, young, young. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

Wine Advocate (93)

The 2015 Charmes Chambertin les Mazoyeres Grand Cru offers up notes of red and black fruit, beetroot, earth and whole cluster spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and silky, with an expansive attack, a layered mid-palate and a long, saline finish. This is quite stylized, marked by whole cluster fermentation which seems to give it a high pH feel, but for admirers of this particular aesthetic—a perspective my score reflects—this should offer two decades of rewarding drinking.