Vinous (95)

The NV (2014) Blanc de Blancs Experience is another very beautiful and expressive Champagne from Agrapart. Silky and nuanced, the Experience is quite vinous, with a very subtle mousse and tons of freshness. Experience is a blend of fruit from Les Robards and Les Bionnes. Pascal Agrapart added unfermented 2015 juice to a base of 2014 wine for the secondary fermentation, an approach that yields a Champagne that is both unique and compelling. Non-dosé. Disgorged: July 2018.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2015) Brut Nature Exp. '15 is another highly intriguing release. The Exp. is a 2015 wine, all Chardonnay, from the Robards and Bionnes lieux-dits in Avize. Pascal Agrapart uses unfermented juice from the following harvest, in this case 2016 (rather than sugar), to create the secondary fermentation in bottle, also known as prise de mousse, in which still wine becomes Champagne. The Exp. '15 is done entirely without sulfur and is bottled with no dosage. It is one of the most unique and distinctive wines in Champagne. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (95)

The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru L’Avizoise, from old vines in the Les Robards and Voie d'Epernay lieux-dits, is a wonderfully complex wine. Rich, ample and mineral but also intensely perfumed, the Avizoise has so much going on. Vinification in oak and aging on the cork seems to really bring out soft contours to match the wine's sculpted, translucent feel. This is an especially refined, aromatic expression of Avize, and also one of the most sublime, elegant wines I have tasted from Pascal Agrapart. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (94+)

The 2008 Blanc de Blancs Vénus, the most vibrant and nuanced of the 2008s at Agrapart, is endowed with a real sense of vertical cut. White flowers, chamomile, almonds and white orchard fruit open up in the glass, but only with reluctance, as the wine remains tense and tightly wound. The perfumed, highly expressive finish is incredibly tempting, but readers who can wait another year or two will find the extra time in bottle rewarding. The Vénus is made from a single parcel in the La Fosse lieu-dit that is worked entirely manually and plowed by horse. Disgorged March 2013, non-dosé.

Vinous (96)

The 2013 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus is a gorgeous and eccentric wine. Sweet floral and minty overtones give the Vénus its distinctive high-toned profile. The richness and depth of this Chardonnay from a parcel planted in 1959 that has always been manually farmed, comes alive with a bit of time in the glass. The Vénus is such a special Champagne, as it is elusive and constantly changing in the glass as it shows a different side of its personality with each taste. I very much admire the sense of precision here. Vénus remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Champagne. No dosage. Disgorged: May, 2019.

Vinous (95)

The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vénus Grand Cru is sublime. Lemon confit, menthol, dried herbs and white pepper all meld together in the glass. More of a wine than Champagne, the Vénus is creamy and open-knit, with lovely freshness and plenty of character. No dosage. Disgorged: May, 2021.

Wine Advocate (98)

From old vines in lieu-dit La Fosse that are planted at somewhat lower density (1.2 meters apart) but where there are consequently very few missing vines or replants, Agrapart's striking 2016 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus unwinds in the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, toasted almonds, warm biscuits, orange zest and iodine. Full-bodied, concentrated and tightly wound, with terrific depth at the core, racy acids and a long, intensely saline finish, it's another brilliant wine from this benchmark grower-bottler.

Wine Advocate (93)

The 2019 La Bruja de Rozas was one of the few 2019s already bottled when I tasted the whole range in November 2020. This is a village Garnacha from Las Rozas de Puerto Real, their first approach to the grape, trying to capture the essence of the fresh fruit and the fluidity of the wine. 2019 is a ripe vintage, and the wine is a little more powerful, juicy and balanced, with rich aromas and flavors. It comes from different plots of old vines ranging from 40 to 65 years of age and planted at some 900 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils in a zone that has plenty of rain, averaging 800 liters per year. Like all of their vineyards, these plots are worked organically and biodynamically. Each vineyard fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts with a soft maceration. The wine matured in oak vats of different sizes, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 liters. The 2019 effect seems to be quite mild here; the wine follows the profile of the 2018, despite being a little riper, and it's still very balanced. There are notes of flowers, basil and a touch of bacon intermixed with the wild berries and herbs. There's a little more concentration, and the tannins are a little chalkier and more austere. But there is no excess ripeness or anything out of place, and it has acidity and length and finishes dry and mineral. 41,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2020.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2021 La Bruja de Rozas is their edgiest and most austere mineral and soil-driven version of their entry-level red. It's herbal, with no concession for fruit, and it has electricity and grip. It's a good preview of what's to come from 2021. It has a lot of 2018 and 2016 characteristics, a cool summer, a year with rain and even some during harvest that complicated matters and made them lose some grapes, but there's more grip, more minerality, more depth, layers and subtleness. It needs time in the glass, and my guess is that at age eight it's going to reach an outstanding level. A grown-up Bruja, it’s more for soil fanatics than the general public, and it’s one to lay down in your cellar (by the case) while you drink your 2020s. There were 55,184 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.

Unveiling an exceptional vintage, the Comando G Navatalgordo 2022 is a masterful representation of Spain's finest viticulture. This remarkable wine is hailing from the harsh, mountainous terrains of Sierra de Gredos, a region celebrated for its unique granite soils. The two youthful vintners, Daniel Landi and Fernando García, behind Comando G harness the potential of these surroundings, employing biodynamic principles, rigorous selection, and old vine Grenache clusters to render this majestic libation.

Comando G Navatalgordo 2022 epitomises the quintessence of a classic Grenache, boasting an intriguing amalgamation of red fruit notes underpinned by an alluring minerality. The craftsmen used whole-bunch fermentation, and an extended maceration process with gentle punch-downs, followed by 14 months maturation in large French oak foudres to confer this wine its unassailable complexity and depth.

Tasting Comando G Navatalgordo 2022 is akin to savouring the essence of Navatalgordo terroir, a wine elegantly enveloped in its unique geographical narrative.

Experience the pure essence and seasonal rhythm of the Spanish terroir with Comando G Rozas 2022. Cultivated in the elemental wilds of the Sierra de Gredos mountains, this robust Grenache breaks conventional norms through meticulous vinification, resulting in a characteristically vigorous and complex spirit. Crafted by Fabio Bartolomei and Daniel Landi, the guiding hands behind the revolutionary Comando G winery, this wine embodies their rebellious spirit and reverence for native soil.

Comando G Rozas 2022 is marked by vibrant minerality, framed within lively strawberry and thyme aromas that adorn a poised, profound palate. A meticulous whole-bunch fermentation process ensures the integral preservation of the grape's character. Organic viticulture and an unhindered respect for seasonal variations in the vineyard augment the wine's authentic expression of place. Experience Comando G Rozas 2022 – a triumphant anthem to nature and the art of winemaking.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2015 Clos Santuy is produced with the grapes from an ungrafted, head-pruned 1.12-hectare vineyard in the village of Piquera de San Esteban in the province of Soria, just outside the limits of Ribera del Duero, so it’s sold as Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León. The vineyard is planted at some 968 meters in altitude on shallow sandstone soils and is enclosed by a dry stonewall. Bougnaud has been working and vinifying this plot separately since 2010 and noticed its personality and aging potential, but this 2015 is the first vintage to be released. This is a textbook elegant and fresh Ribera from the cooler part; it’s ripe and powerful but really in balance and includes some 10% of white Albillo grapes that surely add to the silky texture and the fresh sensation on the palate. What a portfolio Galia showed in 2015, and this jewel of the crown filled some 1,073 bottles in September 2017. Bravo!

Wine Advocate (96)

The nose of the 2016 Clos Santuy was a little more discrete and reticent than the 2016 Villages. This comes from a 1.2-hectare plot of ungrafted vines in the village of Piquera de San Esteban that somehow was left out of the Ribera del Duero appellation. There is a sense of harmony and depth unlike that of the Villages, which felt more open and immediate. The palate is pure rock, austere and chalky, with a sense of minerality that was striking. It's approximately 80% Tempranillo and 20% Albillo fermented together with 20% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in one 225-liter barrel and one 600-liter demi-muid for 22 months. 1,095 bottles were filled in September 2018.

Wine Advocate (95)

The nose of the 2016 Villages was stunning. It's a blend of Tempranillo with 9% Garnacha and 4% white Albillo from vineyards in Piquera de San Esteban, Fuentelcésped, Hontangas, Cuevas de Provanco, Quintanilla de Onésimo and Trigueros del Valle. It fermented by soil types with indigenous yeasts and some 20% full clusters (the Garnacha was 100% whole clusters) and matured in a mixture of 225-liter barriques, 600-liter demi-muids and 1,200-liter foudres for 21 months. The élevage was very respectful with the wine, which comes through as floral and terribly aromatic, ripe without excess and with a medium to full-bodied palate, pungent flavors and great length and persistence. The tannins are round and velvety, and there is a sense of integration and balance that I liked very much. 16,140 bottles and 230 magnums were filled in July 2018.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (97)

One of a handful of single vineyard châteaux in Champagne, now being made by Leclerc-Briant (although they are not owners). Crisp, clean, touches of green apple on the nose but there is weight behind this and it opens to show plenty of quince, hazlenut, biscuit and flaky pastry character, not quite as far as brioche at this point although it will develop over the next few years. The first wine to be released under the new regime, with Hervé Jestin chef de cave, as for Leclerc-Briant (he was in fact already making wine here under the previous owners). Ageing in neutral oak casks, biodynamic viticulture. 2.5ha of vines, 12%abv. Tasted twice, loved it both times, powerful depth of flavour. Brut zero (2g/l dosage), Blanc de Blancs, 100% Grand Cru.