Decanter (97)

Alexander Gottardi’s first time using whole-bunch fermentation has paid off. Bewitching aromas and a balanced palate. Graceful, supple and long. On this showing, Italy’s top Pinot Nero.

Wine Advocate (98)

The single-vineyard Sorte O Soro had not been produced since 2016, and the 2019 Sorte O Soro is the next vintage after that. This plot has always shown additional elegance, freshness and salinity since he started vinifying it in 2004, because of the altitude (710 meters above sea level) and the north exposure to the Bibei Valley, where the old clone is planted on fine granite sand and quartz soils. Like As Sortes, this Sorte also fermented and matured with lees in new 500-liter French oak barrels for eight months. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.12 and higher acidity (at 7.5 grams) than the rest of the 2019s. It feels very harmonious, elegant and nuanced with some creaminess, with notes of wet pollen and yellow flowers. The palate reflects the soil, with vibrant granite and very fine sand and electric quartz (saline), and it's also round and powerful from the clone that is planted in the vineyard. This vineyard is in the process of being organically and biodynamically certified. 2,240 bottles were filled in September 2020. I tasted the 2019s and 2020s from Rafa Palacios in Valdeorras. For him, these are two very good years. 2019 had a mild and dry winter and a rainy and cold spring that delayed budding, followed by a mild summer with fewer hours of sunshine, which meant a delay in the ripening process. Harvest was more than one month later than usual, and the grapes achieved very slow ripening and full development of aromas and flavors while keeping the acidity. The harvest started in October and finished in November. It's a beautiful, homogeneous vintage with very good wines. 2020 saw a moderately cool and rainy winter and a dry and cold spring that resulted in 20% less bunches than in 2019. The summer was also quite dry but, fortunately, not too hot. Given the low yields, maturation was accelerated, and the harvest began at the beginning of September for Louro and from September 25th for As Sortes. Given the scarce water, the plants had to work harder deep down into the soil, which marked the wines; the silica and quartz from the sandy soils of O Bolo shaped a saline identity and the wines achieved a lot of elegance and balance. It's a more heterogeneous vintage, and the higher-altitude vineyards behaved better. The 2020 O Soro is out of this world. He gave me a quick preview of the very cold 2021, a vin de garde vintage but a challenging year with a lot of rain. They are in the process of certifying their vineyards (organic and biodynamic), but they have some problems in the vineyards with neighbors who are not organic, so it will probably be faster for O Soro and Sorte Antiga.

Decanter (98)

Sampled from a vat, this is one of the best As Sortes I have ever tasted, comparable to the iconic 2011. It's a prodigy of subtleness and elegance. Everything is firmly delicate in this wine. Restrained aromas open up parsimoniously, with a steely structure like a great Burgundy, but with flinty acidity almost like Grosses Gewächs from Rheingau. Despite the fact that the sample was not yet bottled, the wine had no oak influence, just the indication that it had been aged, as top Godello must. Rafael Palacios is refining his work year after year, reaching the magic of the greatest wines. A top wine, and one to keep.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2015 O Diviso felt closed, more reticent, and seems more powerful, despite the fact they did a nonextractive vinification; they did nothing and let the wine ferment at its own pace. This matured in one 600-liter oak barrel, and this is the only red that has a slight note from the oak. There is also a relevant amount of Garnacha Tintorera, so the combination of a warm year, the small barrel and the varietal mix resulted in a more austere and backward wine that is going to require more time in bottle. The fruit is darker and the wine is more powerful than the 2014. It might evolve with time in bottle, because it certainly has the stuffing to do so, but today As Caborcas was singing, and I have to give it the edge. 895 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.

Wine Advocate (95)

The Cantina Terlano 2018 Alto Adige Pinot Noir Riserva Monticol is fresh and even wild with forest bramble, tart cassis or cranberry. The winemaking style hones in on freshness and brightness, all this thanks to high-altitude mountain winemaking, with plenty of floral detailing focused on violet and Alpine wild flower. These results are fine and silky, and take note of that pretty freshness that gives lots of life and energy to the finish. Some 45,000 bottles were released. This is a Pinot Noir to serve with an Asiago cheese made in the Alps.

James Suckling (94)

What a beautiful fragrance this very elegant Alpine pinot noir has! Fine red-berry and dried orange-peel aromas with delicate spice from oak. Wonderful integration of generous body and fine tannins, building gently at the long, structured finish. From vineyards between 500 and 600 meters above sea level. Drink or hold.

Vinous (97)

Vivid pale golden-tinged yellow. The mineral-driven, perfumed nose boasts intense aromas of fresh pear, Golden Delicious apple, lime peel and jasmine, with a mineral overtone. Racy, fragrant, sharply focused fresh citrus and orchard fruit flavors are powerful and penetrating, but show no excess weight. The 2015 Grande Cuvée I Primo gains sweetness and a gingery nuance with air while maintaining noteworthy tension and remarkable clarity and cut. The strikingly pure, laser-like and extremely long finish shows superb energy with nuances of powdered minerals and lemony zing lingering nicely. An outstanding, truly beautiful wine from Terlano, that is one of this year’s best white wines from Italy.

Vinous (96)

The 2017 Terlaner Grande Cuvée Primo is rich and seductive from the first tilt of the glass. It displays a mix of roasted hazelnut, baked apple and dried peaches, as it gains further complexities through evolving notes of smoky minerals, chamomile and hints of honeysuckle. The textural depths on the palate are otherworldly, seemingly weighty yet precise, enveloping all it touches in velvety waves of ripe stone fruits and sweet spice, as juicy acids sneak in, both framing and balancing the wine. The finish is remarkably long yet fresh, teeming with energy while also showing hints of vanilla and toasty oak. The Terlano wines have a track record for evolving beautifully in the cellar. That said, the 2017 does show a warmer vintage character, yet all of the elements are here to carry it for another fifteen to twenty years. It's a blend of Pinot Bianco 70%, Chardonnay 27% and Sauvignon Blanc 3%...Wow!

James Suckling (97)

The Alps and the Mediterranean meet in a glass! Mountain freshness (think wild herbs) and bright fruit (think Amalfi lemon) come together in a wine that marries a stack of fine tannins with wet-stone minerality on the the tightly wound palate. Make no mistake, this has been built for very long aging, so decant to aerate, if you drink it any time soon. Breathtaking energy at the very long finish. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (96+)

As the saying goes, good things come in small packages. The Cantina Tramin 2017 Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Vendemmia Tardiva Terminum is made with late-harvest fruit. The wine is packaged in a 375-milliliter bottle and only 4,200 bottles exist. The barrique-aged wine opens to a dark golden color with amber and copper highlights. It would be impossible to exaggerate the intensity of the honey, dried apricot and candied fruit aromas that rise from the bouquet. The one-hectare vineyard is located at a high 450 meters above sea level. The fruit is left to dry on the vines, and only when Botrytis cinerea (or the so-called "noble rot") appears are the grapes ready for harvest. The botrytis serves to safeguard the grape's natural acidity, and it shapes the high-toned and lifted aromas of the bouquet. This wine is simply gorgeous.

James Suckling (94)

Wonderful nose of yellow roses, fresh pineapple and jasmine, with delicately spicy overtones. Stunning ripeness and concentration, but even more importantly, almost impeccable balance for a grape variety that’s a winemaker’s nightmare. Very long, silky finish, where the 15% alcohol is barely perceptible. Drink or hold.