Vinous (88-91)

(losses to frost were only 30% here, vs. 80% for the Grasses Têtes): Good dark red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry and mocha. At once sweeter and sappier than the Grasses Têtes, offering noteworthy concentration and definition to its juicy dark fruit flavors. Showing much more early personality too. Finishes with serious but pliant tannins.

The Bruno Clair Marsannay Rouge 2016 is a splendid embodiment of fine French winemaking. Expertly crafted in the heart of Burgundy, this charming Pinot Noir captures the essence of its Marsannay terroir with finesse. Its brilliance stems from Bruno Clair's philosophical winemaking approach, one that emphasizes minimal interference and meticulous attention to detail. An advocate of sustainable viticulture, Clair's respect for the soil affords a robust concentration of flavour.

This wine displays vibrant ruby hues, exuding ripe red fruits, including cherries and currants on the nose. On the palate, it impresses with its elegant tannins, the subtle spiciness of clove blending with its fruit-driven core. The wine's natural acidity and balance make it accessible within its youthful stage, whilst indicating a long life ahead.

The Bruno Clair Marsannay Rouge 2016 is a testament to the producer's profound understanding of the vine and a dedication to the authentic expression of its origin.

Jeb Dunnuck (97-99)

Not yet bottled, the 2019 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers comes from the Varogne lieu-dit located just to the west of Hermitage. This is a cooler, more shaded vineyard of pure granite soils, and I always find an Hermitage-like character in this wine. Lots of blackberry, cassis, crushed stone, leather, and violet notes emerge from the glass, and it's rich, full-bodied, and powerful on the palate, with lots of structure yet more than enough fruit. The quality of this cuvée has soared recently and the 2019 will be another gem readers will love.

Vinous (93)

Vivid ruby. Smoky blackberry, cherry-cola, violet pastille, licorice and mineral aromas are complemented by a spicy cracked pepper nuance. Ripe, palate-coating black and blue fruit, olive paste and spicecake flavors show sharp focus, and a sweet hint of cola builds in the glass. Supple and broad on the long, spicy finish, which is framed by smooth, slowly building tannins.

Vinous (93)

Opaque magenta. Smoke-accented cherry, dark berry, fruitcake and pipe tobacco aromas are complemented by suggestions of vanilla and bacon fat. Fleshy and broad on the palate, offering appealingly sweet black and blue fruit, vanilla, allspice and dark chocolate flavors and repeating smokiness. Shows fine clarity and dark fruit thrust on the long, smooth finish, which features harmonious tannins and reverberating spice and floral notes.

Burghound (89-90)

"A very subtle hint of wood frames pure and relatively elegant red and blue pinot fruit aromas that introduce delicious mineral-inflected flavors that possess good detail and punch, all wrapped in a mildly austere and persistent finish"

Wine Advocate (89-91)

Notes of cherries, red berries and peonies introduce the 2020 Marsannay Les Longeroies, a medium-bodied, bright and lively wine with a pretty core of fruit and ripe, melting tannins.

Wine Advocate (91-94)

I tasted three components of the 2020 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chênes—maybe four, as Darnaud hadn't yet decided on whether the last one would be included in this cuvée or bottled separately as Au Fil du Temps. The blend should reflect a balanced blend of floral, stemmy notes, bright red cherries and notes of dark-skinned fruit and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, it should drink well on release and for up to a decade. The final sample, aged in second use François Frères barrels, stood out for its suave, silky texture, smoky notes, vibrant raspberry fruit and long finish. If Darnaud bottles it separately, don't hesitate to snap it up.

Prepare your palate for the Georges Lelektsoglou Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes de Gervans 2021, a majestic embodiment of French viticulture. Crafted in the celebrated Crozes-Hermitage appellation in the Northern Rhône region of France, this sumptuous wine is the brainchild of acclaimed producer Georges Lelektsoglou. True to its illustrious lineage, its grapes burgeon on vintage vineyards that nestle amidst the verdurous slopes of Gervans.

Georges Lelektsoglou hones traditional methods, using sustainable practices to venerate the terroir's complexity. This 2021 vintage enchants with expressive Syrah varietal, yielding pronounced dark fruit notes enveloped in a robust structure, soft tannins, and intoxicating spice accents. Enjoy its velvety texture, balanced acidity, and harmonious bouquet; manifesting an eloquent testament to the enduring artistry of Rhône winemaking. Experience the captivating allure of 'Georges Lelektsoglou Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes de Gervans 2021'—a wine of remarkable elegance.

Wine Advocate (91)

From vines planted at elevated densities, the 2020 Marsannay Clos du Roy Blanc exhibits notes of white flowers, citrus zest, crisp orchard fruit and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, with bright acids and a saline, mineral finish, it shows plenty of promise.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a splendid bouquet, very pure and perfumed, quite floral in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crunchy red fruit, a bit chalky, crisp black and red fruit with a vibrant, rather mineral finish. This is quite superb.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2019 Marsannay Es Chezots is one of the most impressive on the nose among Laurent Fournier’s cuvées with black cherries, cassis and briary aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. There is a discrete marine influence, touches of oyster shell and sea salt on the finish of this splendid and sophisticated Marsannay.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-92)

Rich deep purple, I do like the nose here. Laurent says it did not show so well earlier and is now only coming in to itself. He is looking at longer ageing. Huge stuffing to this yet entirely balanced. On the cusp of red and black, a little bit spicy and with excellent length. Tasted: November 2021

Vinous (91-93)

The 2021 Marsannay Es Chezots has a lively, vibrant bouquet with pure Dorset plum and bilberry scents, light iris petal aromas. Very detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiselled tannins, quite chalky in texture, perhaps a little compact but I feel this has something up its sleeve for later. Fournier's spiciest Marsannay. Great potential.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-93)

5 stars. Pale to mid lemon yellow. No sign of too much wood here from Schneckenleitner barrels, much crisper with great tension behind and complex citrus fruit notes behind. Long and fine. Excellent. Marries freshness and density. Tasted: November 2021

Wine Advocate (90-92)

The 2015 Bourgogne Chapitre Vieilles Vignes, which now includes a small parcel of younger vines, is one of the best generic red Burgundy wines that you can find. This does not disappoint. It has a beautifully defined bouquet with blackberry and raspberry aromas, real intensity, almost brooding in quality. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, quite rounded redcurrant and cranberry notes on the entry, wonderful acidity and genuine weight and presence on the finish. Never underestimate the quality of this wine.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2019 Marsannay Le Chapitre comprises a blend of 15- and 75-year-old vines. Interestingly, Laurent Fournier remarks that the younger vines performed better due to the superior rootstock. It has a gorgeous bouquet with dark cherries, blackcurrant and light violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very velvety in texture with an almost crystalline finish. Just a wonderful Marsannay from Fournier this year.

Vinous (92-94)

The 2019 Marsannay "Trois Terres" Vieilles Vignes has a dense bouquet with blackberry, Japanese nori and almost briny aromas. It gradually opens with more crushed stone scents coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, fleshy to the point where it disguises the structure underneath, leading to a tarry and very sustained finish. Just about as good as Marsannay gets. Superb.

Burghound (90-93)

An agreeably fresh nose freely offers up its array of spicy and perfumed red berries, soft earth and a floral whiff. There is fine mid-palate density to the seductively textured, even succulent, medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the lightly austere, firm and balanced finale. This is lovely and worth considering

Wine Advocate (94)

Bearing more than a passing resemblance to an actual Hermitage, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure comes from granitic soils, and it comes across as darker, more concentrated and sturdier than Jaboulet's other Crozes bottlings. Cassis and black olive notes abound in this full-bodied, structured wine, which finishes long and velvety, picking up hints of baking spices along the way.

Vinous (94)

Inky ruby. Suave, mineral-accented scents of ripe blueberry, black currant and Indian spices, along with a slowly emerging floral component. Plush, broad and deeply concentrated, displaying black and blue fruit, licorice and mocha flavors that are energized by an intense, peppery overtone. Finishes extremely long, fleshy and sweet, delivering intense mineral thrust, a subtle cracked pepper nuance and youthful, building tannins.

Jeb Dunnuck (94)

This terroir always delivers a wild, opulent, gamey style of wine, and the 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert doesn’t disappoint. Loads of chocolaty black fruits, ground pepper, truffle, and smoked game, as well as a hint of black olives, emerge from the glass, and it’s medium to full-bodied, has a rocking texture, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It’s a classic example of this wine and terroir. Drink it over the coming 15 years or so.

Wine Advocate (93-95)

Although the fruit sourcing has changed from the old days, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert remains a solid offering in the Jaboulet lineup. Violets accent blackberries and plums on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied, lush and velvety, underscored by doses of salinity and licorice on the lengthy finish.

Matthew Jukes (18+)

Following on from the terrific 2018 vintage, this is another exuberant wine with an inky dark hue and masses of swirling, black fruit notes. This is certainly the most exotically perfumed Thalabert I can remember and this reflects the unique fruit concentration and ripeness found in this vintage. Once you taste this wine you see that it is not all about the luxuriously appointed nose because the palate is packed with spice and tension and the finish is positively electric. In terms of accessibility and also potential, this wine is a conundrum – how can something so young and attractive also seem so compact and age-worthy? This is the key to all of Jaboulet’s 2019s. The exquisite balance between ravishing fruit and refreshing, robust tannins is mesmerising. This is a stupendous Thalabert and I think it is a notch up on the brilliant 2018.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2019 Marsannay Les Longeroies comes from the middle of the vineyard on clayey soils. It is quite high-toned on the nose with Morello cherry, crushed strawberry and sea cave aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with very good depth, rather spicy with a liberal sprinkling of cracked black pepper on the vivacious finish. There is good persistency here - this is a superb Marsannay.