On the nose, faint ripples of sweet wood smoke and tart crème fraîche flow gently into bold notes of savoury fennel, celeriac and roasted tea leaves. Plunge further and discover alluring aromas of charcoal and lightly burnt toast. A splash of water releases a gust of fresh sea spray, followed by eucalyptus oil and pine. Finally, this irresistible nose ends with an unmistakable top note of saddle soap and leather. An intensely salty mouthfeel shifts like the tides into soothing medicinal notes, followed by salted peanut brittle, smoked pineapple and lime juice. Waves of aniseed lap over the palate, before rich fudge, birch tar and peat smoke crash down wildly. This is a dram that coaxes you in, and all assumptions are best left behind. Simply let this alluring spirit surprise and delight. Savoury and smoky notes collide in a sharp, intense, yet satisfyingly long finish

Filled with grandeur, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 is a fine gem from the Côte de Nuits region in Burgundy, France. This robust red, by renowned winemaker Pierre Bart, is a testament to the depth of his 6 generations-worth viticulture command.

Made from aged Pinot Noir vines, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 is noted for its sumptuous layers of complexity. Its 18-month maturation in oak barrels imparts a hint of spice that pairs exquisitely with its rich fruit undertones. A waft of crushed red cherries and wild raspberries encapsulates the essence of the wine's terroir, whilst a gentle touch of mineral inflection evokes the limestone-rich soil of the vineyard.

Exuding sensuality yet profoundly structured, the Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2018 treads flawlessly between power and elegance, drawing devoted followers. A wine of such mesmerising depth, it remains ever-engaging as it evolves in the glass over time.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)

This is all on the red soil part of Bonnes Mares, vinified with 100% whole bunches. Pretty lighter brighter colour, some reduction, then whole bunch strawberries. Generous fruit on the palate, quite complex, very stylish and with fine promise. A fine long aftertaste.

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

Bunnahabhain is a truly special distillery and there are few independent bottlers who have managed to secure more impressive casks from this unique Islay distillery than Signatory. Also trust them to exercise such supreme patience as to wait until this reached perfection at 42 years of age! Very few distilleries can hit such an advanced age without falling apart but Bunnahabhain's finely honed spirit is uniquely balanced and perfect for extensive maturation. Matured in a refill sherry butt and bottled at natural cask strength of 47.9% with incredible finesse, dried fruit flavours and an elegant spiciness. 427 bottles filled in 2016.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

The very high quality of ageing vessel gives an elegant interpretation of Caol Ila's classic peat. Medicinal and iodine are the predominant scents that fit well into the whole aromatic structure that supports and accompanies it. Tones of medicinal herbs, vanilla, leather in the background and licorice complete it and make it complex enough to let us fly with imagination. Just 161 bottles filled from a single cask at 45% ABV.

A single cask Islay malt matured in undersized ex-Bourbon barrels previously used to mature Bourbon whiskey at the Koval Distillery, showcasing Caol Ila’s classic oily maritime qualities with aromas of sweet, earthy peat, sea breeze and iodine alongside pungent, warming spices evoking cinnamon, cumin, smoked pepper and cardamom. A finish laced with eucalyptus and dried mint makes for a restrained, finessed Islay with a long, dynamic finish. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 58.1% without colouring or filtration.

The second bottling from the Stewart Whisky Company in their Stiùbhart Single Cask selection, released in March 2021 at 13 years of age in a limited run of just 132 bottles.

Vinous (94)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet that is slightly more Musigny in personality than I expected. There is mainly dark fruit here, mixed with potpourri and incense and becoming more flamboyant as it aerates in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, and quite compact in style because, as François Millet noted, these 2017s are beginning to close down. But there is certainly good density here, and an enticing tensile finish.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a limpid deep purple. It has a heavenly bouquet distantly related to the Les Amoureuses, offering precocious but detailed blueberry, black cherry, crushed iris petal and crushed limestone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with an edgy, marine-influenced opening, a tang of shucked oyster shells infusing the black and blueberry fruit, leading to a detailed, tensile, lightly spiced finish. A long tail of white pepper lingers on the aftertaste. This is absolutely divine.

Burghound (93-95)

(from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard). A riper and more restrained nose requires some swirling to reveal its aromas of plum liqueur, blue berry, earth and a more restricted range of spice elements. The bigger and richer flavors possess an opulent richness and a velvety texture that coats the palate and enrobes the firmer tannic spine shaping the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly persistent finale. This offers a completely different expression compared to the Amoureuses but one that is equally interesting. This too possesses superb development potential though patience definitely advised. (93-95)/2039+

This is for fans of old-school Burgundy. Beautiful aromatics, rich fruit and toasty new oak. It will need cellaring but will be worth the wait.

Wine Advocate (90-92)

The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru includes around 35% whole bunch fruit and around 60% new oak. It has an open, quite transparent bouquet with mineral-tinged black fruit, a hint of Seville orange marmalade lurking in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares good backbone and a little more masculinity than previous vintages. I like the density here, but it just needs to flow a little more towards the strict, linear finish.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Quite deep crimson. Pretty damned dramatic on the nose! Very charmingly fruity and rich. There’s no doubt about this wine’s grand cru status. So sweet and smooth! But with spice underneath and real persistence. Very long and satisfying.

Vinous (94-96)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains 30% whole clusters. It has a perfumed bouquet of blackberry, hints of cassis, crushed violet and touches of potpourri, very well defined and focused and delivering the intensity one expects from this growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and just the right amount of acidity. Wonderful harmony and composure here, gently unfolding toward a satin-textured finish that lingers long in the mouth. Bon vin!

Vinous (92+)

Palish red with a hint of amber. A bit cooler and more peppery than the Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de la Roche, with its reticent red fruit aromas complicated by herbs and menthol. Then densely packed, savory and intense, more about soil tones than primary fruit. Not a sweet style but youthfully penetrating. Finishes sweet, slightly medicinal and classically dry, with lingering salty and spicy qualities. A rather rigorous wine in the context of the vintage, but then this is Bonnes-Mares, which has traditionally been one of Burgundy's longest-aging grand crus.

Vinous (94+)

Bright medium red. Knockout high-pitched aromas of red berries, peony and orange peel. Boasts compelling subtle density and sharp definition to its taut flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice, spices and minerals. In its juicy sappiness, this is like chewing on a ripe cherry. A classic Bonnes-Mares, offering superb volume without any undue weight. And an outstanding example of what phenolically ripe fruit could make in this cool vintage.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Dark crimson. Juicy and alluring on the nose. And then wonderfully rich and exciting on the palate. Great intensity and majesty. Woo hoo! Long and gorgeous.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-100)

All three cuvées, white soil, red soil and the new plot, have been blended. Overall two-thirds of the blend comes from white soil Bonnes Mares. Two thirds whole bunch, one third new wood. Glowing rich purple, with a beautiful bouquet demonstrating exquisitely balanced fruit. Ripe of course but there are some red threads in with the darker fruit, fine acidity too, just a sumptuous covering of exquisite dark raspberry and a little touch of blackberry. Bravo! There is a lovely covering of flesh on top of natural vivacity.

Always one of the most eagerly awaited of the annual Special Releases, this latest edition of the Lagavulin 12 year old cask strength is perhaps one of the best to date. Bottled with even more vigour and classic intensity than the standard distillery bottling of the 16, the 2020 Special Release is quintessential Islay without a doubt. A whisky that offers wave after wave of citrus-and-clove-infused peat with a coastal salinity and nuanced power, this is a genre-defining Lagavulin that will no doubt become a sought-after darling of the collector's market before long, much as its predecessors have.

Wine Enthusiast (96)

This is a sumptuous wine, rich and full of both fruit and a cushioned structure. The generosity of this beautifully perfumed wine is considerable, giving juicy fruits as well as acidity. It has great aging potential so don't drink before 2026.

Vinous (91-94)

Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of raspberry, minerals and dried flowers complicated by torrefaction notes of mocha and coffee. Round on entry, then sappy in the middle, showing terrific crushed raspberry intensity along with saline, mocha, spice and earth notes. This very taut, energetic wine is even more backward than the Amoureuses. Really saturates the palate on the back end, finishing with outstanding smoky persistence.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.