Jeb Dunnuck (97+)

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Réserve Des Deux Freres is almost all Grenache but includes a tiny parcel of very old vine Serine Syrah from Charbonniere. This deep purple-hued effort boasts a killer nose of blackberries, cassis, spicy wood, graphite, and ground pepper, among other Provençal nuances. Pure, full-bodied, and flawlessly balanced, it has building yet perfectly ripe tannins, the vintage’s more elegant, streamlined style, and a great finish. It's beautifully done and will benefit from just a few years of bottle age and keep for 15 to 20 years.

Vinous (91+)

Medium red-ruby. Smoky redcurrant nose, with hints of game, leather and pepper; surmuri notes of dried fruits. Fat but quite fine; less sweet and fruit-driven today than the Pignan but more complex, more serious. This has solid structure for aging. The Pignan always tastes better young than Rayas, Reynaud points out.

Vinous (94)

Medium red. Stunning floral and red berry aromas emphasize raspberry, strawberry and fresh lavender. Bright, focused and pure, with vibrant red fruit and mineral flavors given an exotic twist by a hint of dried apricot. The sweet finish leaves a strong floral pastille impression. The freshness and precision of this wine are really captivating.

Decanter (98)

A stunning, fresh perfume of orange rind, bright mint and strawberry jam. Plump, round and silky in the mouth, the rich alcohol and glycerol is matched by perfectly balanced acidity. Ethereal, bright, long and with so much personality; a beautiful, classic Rayas, which was opened 24 hours in advance of tasting.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is an awesome example of elegance combined with extraordinary power. The alcohol levels must be between 15.5% and 16%, but the elegance and sublime nature of this wine make it irresistible. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of framboise, black cherry liqueur intermixed with blacker fruits, licorice and a hint of flowers. Pure with terrific layers of fruit concentration (although it's remarkably light on its feet), silky tannins, well-integrated acidity and a stunning personality, this monumental Rayas is breathtaking. This beauty will undoubtedly be drinkable early on (although Emmanuel Reynaud considers that to be infanticide), and it is capable of lasting 25-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007.