Wine Advocate (99)

One of the pinnacles of this Champagne vintage, the 2004 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises—disgorged in 2012—has now stepped into its prime enjoyment window and unveils a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, exuding aromas reminiscent of candied tangerine zest, praline and beeswax, intricately mingling with aromas of spices and a subtle smokiness. On the palate, it is full-bodied with immense concentration and plenitude, layered and enveloping, yet exquisitely balanced, displaying remarkable depth supported by a spine of racy acids and culminating in a long, resonant finish. For all its power and profundity, it retains an effortless sense of completeness.

Richard Juhlin (98)

The world has about 3,000 bottles to fight off of this extraterrestrial nectar. I am delighted that they have dared to have 8 grams of sugar in its dosage this seductive vintage. From the beginning, my senses are bombarded by colossal impressive, magnificent and colorful impressions. The essence of inflated fruit is similar to a Beerenauslese from Rheingau as well as white and red Burgundy of the finest brand. Extremely drinkable from start in a similar style as the 1990 and 1989 back in the days. Personally, I am convinced that VVF has become even more concentrated and high-graded when the vineyard in Bouzy disappeared and we are dealing with 100% Aÿ. 2008 has all the conditions to become one of history's greatest. Until then, I'm delighted to enjoy this deliciously sensuous dainty bit which on the highest volume conveys notes of orange marmalade, honey, roses, honeysuckle, olive oil, tar, black truffle and cep mushroom in a unisoned golden symphony

Richard Juhlin (98)

The world has about 3,000 bottles to fight off of this extraterrestrial nectar. I am delighted that they have dared to have 8 grams of sugar in its dosage this seductive vintage. From the beginning, my senses are bombarded by colossal impressive, magnificent and colorful impressions. The essence of inflated fruit is similar to a Beerenauslese from Rheingau as well as white and red Burgundy of the finest brand. Extremely drinkable from start in a similar style as the 1990 and 1989 back in the days. Personally, I am convinced that VVF has become even more concentrated and high-graded when the vineyard in Bouzy disappeared and we are dealing with 100% Aÿ. 2008 has all the conditions to become one of history's greatest. Until then, I'm delighted to enjoy this deliciously sensuous dainty bit which on the highest volume conveys notes of orange marmalade, honey, roses, honeysuckle, olive oil, tar, black truffle and cep mushroom in a unisoned golden symphony

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Wine Advocate (97)

Disgorged in 2019, Bollinger’s 2009 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises offers a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and beeswax, mingling with notes of candied orange zest and pastries. On the palate, it is full-bodied, layered and vinous, revealing a core of concentrated fruit that gives way to a long, enveloping finish with Pinot Noir phenolics emerging gracefully. Enjoyed on its own, the 2009 leaves little to be desired—but when compared directly with the more expressive and harmonious 2004, the choice of which glass to refill first becomes instantly apparent. Given the small production volumes of Vieilles Vignes Françaises, revisiting this rendition in the future may prove challenging. However, for those fortunate enough to possess a bottle, my advice is to wait until 2030 before opening it, in order to experience it at its fullest expression.

Wine Advocate (97)

Disgorged in 2019, Bollinger’s 2009 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises offers a deep bouquet of ripe pear, peach and beeswax, mingling with notes of candied orange zest and pastries. On the palate, it is full-bodied, layered and vinous, revealing a core of concentrated fruit that gives way to a long, enveloping finish with Pinot Noir phenolics emerging gracefully. Enjoyed on its own, the 2009 leaves little to be desired—but when compared directly with the more expressive and harmonious 2004, the choice of which glass to refill first becomes instantly apparent. Given the small production volumes of Vieilles Vignes Françaises, revisiting this rendition in the future may prove challenging. However, for those fortunate enough to possess a bottle, my advice is to wait until 2030 before opening it, in order to experience it at its fullest expression.

Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Vinous (97)

The 2010 Vieilles Vignes Françaises dazzles from the very first impression with striking aromatic presence and utterly captivating balance. Mirabelle, sweet red cherry, jasmine and passion fruit are some of the many notes that give the 2010 its decidedly racy, exotic personality. The 2010 exudes rare energy for this vintage, which was hardly easy in the field, not to mention real pedigree. It is absolutely unforgettable. I only hope to have a chance to taste it again someday.

Richard Juhlin (98-99)

Tasted prerelease with Denis Bunner when he just decided to add 6 grams of sugar. I have never tasted such a freshly disgorged VVF before and was really surprised by its bright color and lively character. Even more, I was surprised by its aromatic spectrum which in many parts reminded me of Coche-Dury's most beautiful creations from Meursault. This VVF shared its high-intensity petroleum bouquet and a really ultra-strong grilled, nutty and powdery aroma. Imagine that a pure Pinot Noir can remind you so much of Chardonnay. Added to this enormous bouquet is a fabulous freshness and pure fresh fruit where floral, yes almost citrus notes dance together with the grilled notes. A different and absolutely fantastic VVF that may become more classic from a purely stylistic perspective over time, but today it stands out as both fantastic and personally unique.

Wine Advocate (97)

A brilliant wine, Bollinger's 2013 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is finer boned and more elegant than the powerhouse 2008, but it is still one of the most powerful, intensely flavored wines produced in the region. Wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, baking spices, orange oil and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit girdled by racy acids. Concentrated and vinous, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

The Champagne Club (99)

How long will we be able to enjoy this treasure? You are well aware that the phylloxera louse can any day crawl under the gate and in a flash destroy the two fragile slabs of Clos Saint-Jacques and Clos Chaudes-Terres in Aÿ. This impermanence makes the wine even more treasured and unique, as if its stratospheric quality weren't reason enough to hold the world's finest Blanc de Noirs in high esteem. Tasted directly after the mellow La Côte aux Enfants from the same vintage, I was prepared for VVF to be beaten for the first time by its sibling wine from the same village. When I finished tasting it was clear that I had just tasted the perfect champagne in its style. The champagne combines the honeyed concentration of a Château d´Yquem with the buttery nutty power and sophisticated richness of a Montrachet from Comte Lafon. But my God, Juhlin, it's Pinot Noir. Yes, but the fabulous creation is more reminiscent of the mentioned wines than of a big red Burgundy this time. I don't really know why 2014 was so perfect for Bollinger. Perhaps one has become even more skilled at maneuvering all the details that give a perfect VVF, or does the old theory apply that naturally masculine Bollinger is often at its best in slightly lighter and elegant vintages? In any case, this is a colossal wine experience! The wine belongs to the small few who act with such self-evident weight that comments and comparisons feel redundant. The color is deep golden and the extremely small bubbles move slowly up through the glass. The bouquet is rich, dense and powerful like a rumbling thunderstorm in the distance. Filled with honey and hazelnut essence and screaming scent of honeysuckle. In the mouth you are met by an oily and creamy essence of dark fruit, 70% chocolate from Domori and licorice with the same grilled lemons and apricot marmalade I find in all Bollinger's wines from 2014. Monumental, long, dense and unreal wide like a parade street in Buenos Aires. Drink soon or wait ten years for the next phase. Just as with La Côte aux Enfants, there is a high risk of tunnel behavior for a few years. Right now pure happiness in a champagne glass.

Immerse yourself in the prestige and elegance of Bonalgue 2010, an extraordinary Pomerol hailing from a small village in Bordeaux, France. This exquisite, finely-structured vintage conveys the dedication and mastery of Château Bonalgue, renowned for its authentic, traditionally crafted wines. The high percentage of Merlot brings forward a delicately fruit-forward profile, while Cabernet Franc provides structured tannins and a supple, persistent finish.

The grapes, grown in the vineyard's unique gravelly clay-laden soils, undergo traditional vinification in thermoregulated stainless-steel vats, facilitating a slow and balanced fermentation that fully expresses the terroir. The Bonalgue 2010 also basks in 18 months in French oak barrels; a subtlety adding depth, complexity and gentle cigar box notes to its profile. Reputable sources like Decanter beautifully describe this '2010 as an alluring blend of finesse and power with remarkable ageing potential, thus a great option for collectors and enthusiasts venturing into Pomerol. A true embodiment of the famous ‘Bonalgue’ signature style.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2014 Bonalgue is ripe, racy and voluptuous, all of which make it pretty hard to resist. Dark red cherry, espresso, grilled herbs, French oak and menthol caress the palate. All the elements have come together beautifully in this overt, flamboyant yet midweight Pomerol. Silky tannins add to the wine’s early and medium-term appeal. Another year or two in bottle should help the oak integrate a bit further, but this will always be in a forward, giving style. Tasted two times.

Decanter (94)

Ripe and concentrated on the nose, darkly perfumed with red cherries and blackcurrants at the fore. Smooth and satisfying on the palate, this has a lovely bright expression to the summery red berry fruits and a velvety-textured tannic grip that is edged with sweet liquorice and dark chocolate. Powerful but poised with a sense of Pomerol class.

Vinous (97)

(a berry-by-berry selection from the bottom of the slope; this never goes through malo; 195 g/l r.s.; bottled in 375-ml. format): Bright medium gold. Classic, high-toned scents of dried apricot, honey, crumbly buttery pastry shell and toffee. Incredibly dense and thick but also surprisingly racy, with its utterly seamless flavors of dried fruits, spices, hazelnut and marzipan framed and carried by almost lemony acidity. Wonderfully penetrating, exhilaratingly high-toned wine with great texture, lift and length. This is really a remarkable thing to do with Chardonnay.

Vinous (94)

An explosive, rich Burgundy, the 1999 Corton Grand Cru shows the pedigree of this great vintage. Sweet and beautifully perfumed, the 1999 opens to reveal fabulous depth and intensity. At twenty years of age, it is also remarkably vibrant. Sweet red cherry, red plum, kirsch, mint and wild flowers build into the striking finish. The 1999 is superb.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2009 Corton is impeccably refined from start to finish. Endless layers of red fruit, flowers, licorice and sweet spices caress the palate in this impeccable, breathtaking red. This is an absolutely gorgeous, striking wine endowed with extraordinary textural finesse and elegance. Sweet, perfumed notes caress the palate on the rich, resonant finish. In 2009, the Corton is pure finesse and class. Ideally, the 2009 is best left alone for at least a few years, but readers will need to be disciplined, as the wine is already delicious, even today. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.

Vinous (95)

Suave, silky and expressive, the 2015 Corton Grand Cru is a standout. Silky tannins wrap around a core of ripe red cherry/plum fruit, with pretty floral, hard candy, and spice overtones that develop with a bit of time in the glass. Naturally, the 2015 is very, very young. But it is a gorgeous Burgundy that will repay cellaring handsomely.

Vinous (88)

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru just lacks a bit of bandwidth on the nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, but there is less terroir expression than some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with some stalky elements on the entry. It is missing a little density and grip towards the finish that feels a little drier than I would have liked at this early juncture. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.

Vinous (94)

The 1994 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is exotic, deep and so distinctive. Oily and rich in the glass, with striking texture, the 1994 is superb. Orange peel, hazelnut, chamomile, dried savory herbs and tropical inflections all come alive in the glass. It is a superb wine from a year where hail, botrytis and mildew were among the challenges.