James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.

James Suckling (98)

Extremely well-mannered, traditional character to this, showing layer upon layer of savory complexity on the nose, with iron, dried meat, tobacco, balsamic fruit, dried red berries, orange peel, leather and dried mushrooms. A medium-to full-bodied, linear and zesty Rioja that’s full of nuanced flavors that linger through the very long, savory finish. Floral, too. Yet, it remains bright and precise. Tempranillo with 16% mazuelo. Drink on release or hold.

James Suckling (100)

So much dried flower, mushroom, iron, rust, sweet berry, and grilled orange. Full-bodied with very elegant and refined tannins that melt in the mouth and give a real sense of place and integrity. Balanced and harmonious. The finesse and finish is endless. Production was 30% less than in 2011. Already so drinkable. A wonderful future. This is the new 1934 or 1964, two legends. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

Vinous (91)

Opaque ruby. Oak-spice-accented red and blue fruits, vanilla, roasted coffee and a hint of smokiness on the perfumed nose. Supple and expansive in the mouth, offering concentrated black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors that turn sweeter with air. The vanilla and cherry notes linger on the sweet, persistent finish, which is shaped by supple, harmonious tannins. Definitely showing its oak right now, but there's plenty of fruit to back it up.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

Fresh, serious, stylish and well balanced, this is a delightful 2015, with no sign of the heat of the vintage.

Wine Enthusiast (99)

Dark-garnet to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of black currant, bittersweet chocolate and almond blossom. It alights on the palate with flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, violet and citrus zest. Energetic tannins power their way into a cherry-pie finish. Made with vines more than 30 years old, this wine is unfiltered; decant before serving and strain if necessary. Drink through 2045.

Vinous (92)

(this wine was reviewed in July 2008 and is a library release, with a price to match) Deep ruby. Potent cassis and blueberry aromas show excellent clarity and lift, and cigar box, licorice and vanilla notes add complexity. Supple, broad and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated dark berry, cola, vanilla and peppery spice flavors and a smoky quality that emerges on the back half. Finishes long and smooth, featuring slow-building tannins and lingering blue fruit and oak spice qualities. For a 13-year-old wine, this one is extremely youthful.

Wine Advocate (94)

They didn’t bottle Dalmau in 2008, so they are already releasing the 2009 Dalmau Reserva now, which shows a more modern profile than the Reserva or the Castillo de Ygay. It’s a blend of 74% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Graciano from a single vineyard called Canaja, planted in 1950, which yields one kilo of grapes per plant. The different varieties are fermented separately in stainless steel and oak vats. The wine carries out its malolactic fermentation in new Allier barrels, where it matures for a further twenty months, but the varieties are kept separated for the first 13-14 months. The wine is left to settle in concrete vats for six months before being bottled. It displays a dark ruby color, a serious nose with some balsamic, minty notes, and aromas of licorice, cedar wood, smoke, cigar ash, a mixture of red and black fruit, and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon. It feels more Atlantic than Mediterranean. The palate is round and elegant, with great acidity, amulti-dimensional character, and a very long finish. 22,500 bottles were filled. Drink 2014-2028.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Pure magic, the 2019 Aro is 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano from a plant by plant selection of the Muga family's oldest vines of Tempranillo, blended with a substantial portion of Graciano. This dense purple behemoth has a primordial bouquet of pure cassis, graphite, crushed stone, lead pencil, new leather, and hints of spring flowers. Building incrementally on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate, and ripe, velvety tannins, this is one heavenly Rioja that deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and will age like a First Growth from Bordeaux. Hats off to the team at Muga for another incredible wine.

Wine Advocate (94+)

The second vintage of their top white is the 2019 Flor de Muga Blanco, produced with a blend of 40% Viura from red limestone and clay soils, 30% Garnacha Blanca from classical clay and limestone and 30% Maturana Blanca planted on sandy soils. It fermented in small barrels with indigenous yeasts and then matured in concrete eggs for three months and new barriques built in their own cooperage for six months. The wine is 13.2%alcohol and has a pH of 3.2 with very good acidity. There are only 37 hectares of Maturana Blanca in Rioja, of which they have eight. It's the same grape as the extinct Ribadavia variety from Galicia. The variety disappeared because it delivers very low yields, but they love the quality when it's picked fully ripe when it still keeps very good acidity. The wine is still a little oaky and powerful, from a warm and dry year, but the palate is electric and almost salty. This is a white that should develop nicely in bottle (I wish I had a time machine!), and as with the rosé, this feels like the finest vintage to date... only the second one! 11,892 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2020.

James Suckling (97)

Really beautiful aromas of crushed blackberry, brambleberry, hazelnut, walnut and light coffee, following through to a full yet so reserved and polished body with fine, creamy-textured tannins. Fresh and exquisite finish. This is a much more refined and harmonic rendition of their classic wine. Three years in French oak from their own production. Very enjoyable now, but this will improve with age for a long time.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

This dark-ruby wine offers a bouquet of ripe cherry and baking spices. Notes of clove and nutmeg transition to the palate alongside flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, eucalyptus and violet. Luxurious tannins amble toward a lengthy finish. Drink through 2045.

Wine Advocate (97+)

The expressive, complex and nuanced 2016 Prado Enea Gran Reserva is a textbook traditional Rioja in the making. 2016 was a very elegant year, with aging potential, volume and very good acidity and freshness. It's full-bodied but fine-boned, has 14.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.6 and 5.25 grams per liter acidity. It has terrific balance, with all the components in the right proportion to age superbly in bottle. They have also been working on the selection of wood used. This wine matured in French and American oak barrels for three years, and the oak is super integrated. 127,808 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2020. It was an exceptional year with volume and quality.

Wine Advocate (94)

The 2019 Reserva, sold as Crianza in Spain, comes from a dry and warm year with low yields and concentrated wines. The grapes from the Haro zone, the four from Rioja, Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo and Graciano fermented destemmed and lightly crushed in oak vats with indigenous yeasts, and 80% of the volume matured in French oak and the rest in Centro European and American oak, 20% of them new, for 22 months, during which time the wine was racked every eight to nine months. This is serious and young but balanced, nuanced and complex. They are shortening the time in oak, as they feel they have better and younger barrels and think the wines need less time in oak and more time in bottle. This is very Muga, very Rioja and very good. They produced an impressive 960,000 bottles and 18,000 magnums of this. There is only one master blend that is bottled at different times. I tasted a bottle that was filled in April 2022 (because of the lack of availability of bottles!).

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Even better than the magical 2015, the 2016 Torre Muga offers a thrilling bouquet of cassis and assorted pure dark fruits, lead pencil, graphite, white flowers, and spice-laced aromas and flavors. While this cuvée is always thought of as the most modern in the lineup, it's far from it and has integrated oak, flawless balance, sweet tannins, and a gorgeous finish. It's beautifully done and just a thrilling bottle of Rioja that's going to evolve for 20-30 years or more.

Decanter (95)

Grupo Bodegas Olarra was founded in 1973 and is now a large organisation producing wines under three different bodega names in Rioja and beyond. The Laztana 2011 is a blend of about 80% Tempranillo with 10% Garnacha and the remainder Graciano and Mazuelo, from vines aged on average for more than 30 years. Fermentation in stainless steel was followed by malolactic fermentation and nearly three months on lees in new 225-litre Allier oak barrels, then six further months in new oak before cask-ageing up to 27 months in total in a mix of new to five-year-old Allier and US barrels. The wine was subsequently cellared for 40 further months in bottle prior to its first release. Sarah Jane Evans MW - Truffly, balsamic, cherry aromas. Full-bodied and fleshy in the mouth, a really youthful wine, packed with energy. Notes of oranges, blackberries and redcurrants abound, then following through with a firm structure of tannin. Christine Parkinson - Spicy aromas of turmeric, cumin, strawberry and dark chocolate, which all carry through to the palate. Creamy layers of tannin are very appealing, and the strong core of acidity makes this a great wine for food. Very long, confident, concentrated finish. Beth Willard - Attractive nose of rose petal, peach and red cherry. Very ripe, jammy fruit, strawberry, with a touch of white pepper on the finish and fresh acidity. A more fruit-forward style of wine, with well balanced oak Drinking Window 2021 - 2033

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Kalamity is Bastegieta's favorite vintage because of the floweriness and the quality of the tannins. There's a lot of precision here. The vines have been detoxed through years of working organically, so the soils have recovered from years of herbicide. 2020 and 2021 were challenging years because of the pandemic, but qualitatively, in Rioja they are excellent years. All wines ferment with indigenous yeasts, and in this case, the wine matured in 600-liter Stockinger oak barrels, which are his favorite for his wines. The wine already starts transmitting freshness from the nose, and the palate is a lot more obvious and makes you salivate. This is super clean, precise like a laser cut, with light and energy, fresher than the majority of Rioja with very fine, silky tannins that give it a beautiful texture with dry, chalky minerality. This is perfumed, elegant, nuanced, layered and beautifully balanced. This is still very young, clean and modern, with stuffing and balance to develop in bottle for a long time. 2,500 bottles produced.

Take your sense of taste on a journey with the Paisajes y Vinedos Paisajes VII Cecias 2005. This splendid Rioja wine is born of the prestigious winescape of La Rioja, Spain. It hails specifically from the 3rd micro-parcel of Vinedos de los Paisajes where each vine is tended with meticulous attention.

Produced only from the stellar 2005 vintage, the wine exudes cityscape of harmonic complexity and grace. Traditional fermentation techniques were used, followed by 14 months of aging in French oak imparting a refined depth to the wine. This master craftsman’s dedication to nature's rhythm results in a wine of resounding purity and elegance. Expect a layered bouquet of ripe red fruits, balsamic notes and toasty hints from the wood aging.

Paisajes y Vinedos Paisajes VII Cecias 2005 is a true emblem of an exceptional viticultural year and the passionate skill of its dedicated winemakers.

Decanter (94)

Look no further If you’re after an outstanding wine for your Sunday table, produced by a celebrated winemaker, and which doesn’t break the bank. Alvaro Palacios' Finca La Montesa delivers on all fronts: drinkability, complexity, elegance, length and great value. Rioja – and Garnacha – delivered with poise and classic modernity.

Immerse in the pleasure of the Palacios Remondo Rioja Montesa Reserva Selecction Especial 2015, a masterpiece of Spanish viniculture. An elegy to excellence, this wine originates from the renowned Rioja region, crafted by the prestigious Palacios Remondo winery. Produced by third-generation vintner, Álvaro Palacios, a custodian of old vines and sustainable wine-making practices, this exceptional Reserva infuses finesse and authenticity into every bottle.

A seamless blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo, the production process embodies French oak ageing, ensuring unmatched complexity and an enchanting bouquet. This wine boasts excellent ageing potential, mirroring the unparalleled legacy of its producer. Bright, lively cherry hues enrobe a subtle nose of red fruit and spice. Leveraging on the exceptional 2015 vintage, this Reserva bears the exquisite structure, breadth and balance characteristic of truly world-class wines.

The Palacios Remondo Rioja Montesa Reserva Selecction Especial 2015 is not merely a wine but a celebration of heritage, craftsmanship, and the very soil it hails from.

Tim Atkin MW (95)

Pujanza wasn't hit by the hail that affected Rioja in 2017, but this is still a pretty concentrated number, made entirely from Tempranillo grown at 630 metres and aged in 25% new wood. Chalky, dense and youthful, it's a wine that's made to mature in bottle, combining intensity with focus, freshness and serious tannins

Wine Advocate (94+)

The single-vineyard red 2018 Finca Valdepoleo follows the line of the 2016, two cooler years. It's a fairly large plot that was planted in 1973 in the village of Laguardia on limestone and clay soils at 630 meters in altitude. It fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and also with some stems (something they don't normally do), and it matured in French oak barrels for one year. The finesse of this wine captured me, and I believe this is the finest vintage for this vineyard bottling. When I poured the whole range and had a quick look at all the wines, this one made me raise my eyebrows. It's elegant, subtle and pure, floral and aromatic, really expressive and captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and nicely integrated oak. It's a modern version of the 2013. Truly outstanding. 60,000 bottles produced.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

The vines are still comparatively young at 19 years' old, but Norte, located at 730 metres on the slopes of the Sierra de Cantabria, is one of Rioja's greatest parcels. Influenced by the presence of limestone close to the surface, this is a thrilling Tempranillo that's taut, chalky and chiselled with serious, ageworthy tannins, sappy acidity and layers of red berry and black cherry fruit. 2025-35

Decanter (96)

Part of an accomplished range of Riojas from Laguardia producer Pujanza, this 100% Viura is grown on the small 3.5ha limestone vineyard of San Juan de Anteportalatina at 600m. This terroir produces a distinctive and distinguished white, with layered aromas, savoury notes, fresh lemon, preserved lemon, a touch of salinity, and stony minerality. Rioja's answer to white Burgundy: elegant, mineral, toasty, buttery, citrus, with real verve - a seam of focused acidity. Vibrant finish, long and layered with fresh grapefruit, saltiness, toasted nuts. Aged for 12 months in French oak and concrete. Limited production.