Matthew Jukes (19+)

Named after the first chef de cave at Billecart, Louis Salmon, Billecart has been making this style since the ’60s, and it never disappoints. While 2012 had a very tricky start to the season, a remarkable vintage emerged because the summer was superb. The French expression, ‘Août fait le moût’, meaning ‘the month of August makes the must’, or rather, August is largely responsible for the calibre of flavour of any vintage, is startlingly accurate in this wine. With low yields, a lengthy hang-time, and decent natural alcohol levels of 10.5%, this 100% Grand Cru made up of 60% Le Mesnil, 23% Cramant, 11% Chouilly, and 6% Oiry is a ravishingly refreshing wine. 25% was vinified in barrel, and it was aged for a mighty 115 months before being bottled with a lean 3.9g/L dosage. Mathieu Roland-Billecart surmised that the 2012 sits between the 2002 and the 2008 in style – not as austere as ’02 and with “more meat” than ’08. Interestingly, the bottles were aged under crown caps, and the magnums were cork-sealed for maturation. We tasted these two formats side by side, and they indeed showed some fascinatingly different characteristics. The bottle format seemed lovely, silky, super-long and gloriously even. It is a slender, willowy wine with a palate that flows briskly with intent. Its flanks are glassy-smooth, and all of the acidity is reserved for the serious finish, which echoes the NV that proceeded it, except this time, there is much more tension and verve on display. The cork-cap-aged magnum discreetly showed more breadth on the nose and a hint of toastiness on the palate. It seemed to have picked up more of the oak nuances, carrying them further forward on the palate. The other difference is that the magnum appears more profound, as it billows on the palate initially, however I can see both formats converging somewhat over time. While they are both exactly the same wine, they might never end up tasting identical because every time you open a bottle, taking a ‘snapshot’ of their flavours, they will not be at the same spot of their respective timelines, and this makes them both must-haves for the serious Billecart aficionado! Billecart also made a handful of jeroboams in 2012 – albeit in tiny quantities – so goodness knows how different this format would taste.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Named after the first chef de cave at Billecart, Louis Salmon, Billecart has been making this style since the ’60s, and it never disappoints. While 2012 had a very tricky start to the season, a remarkable vintage emerged because the summer was superb. The French expression, ‘Août fait le moût’, meaning ‘the month of August makes the must’, or rather, August is largely responsible for the calibre of flavour of any vintage, is startlingly accurate in this wine. With low yields, a lengthy hang-time, and decent natural alcohol levels of 10.5%, this 100% Grand Cru made up of 60% Le Mesnil, 23% Cramant, 11% Chouilly, and 6% Oiry is a ravishingly refreshing wine. 25% was vinified in barrel, and it was aged for a mighty 115 months before being bottled with a lean 3.9g/L dosage. Mathieu Roland-Billecart surmised that the 2012 sits between the 2002 and the 2008 in style – not as austere as ’02 and with “more meat” than ’08. Interestingly, the bottles were aged under crown caps, and the magnums were cork-sealed for maturation. We tasted these two formats side by side, and they indeed showed some fascinatingly different characteristics. The bottle format seemed lovely, silky, super-long and gloriously even. It is a slender, willowy wine with a palate that flows briskly with intent. Its flanks are glassy-smooth, and all of the acidity is reserved for the serious finish, which echoes the NV that proceeded it, except this time, there is much more tension and verve on display. The cork-cap-aged magnum discreetly showed more breadth on the nose and a hint of toastiness on the palate. It seemed to have picked up more of the oak nuances, carrying them further forward on the palate. The other difference is that the magnum appears more profound, as it billows on the palate initially, however I can see both formats converging somewhat over time. While they are both exactly the same wine, they might never end up tasting identical because every time you open a bottle, taking a ‘snapshot’ of their flavours, they will not be at the same spot of their respective timelines, and this makes them both must-haves for the serious Billecart aficionado! Billecart also made a handful of jeroboams in 2012 – albeit in tiny quantities – so goodness knows how different this format would taste.

Vinous (94-96)

The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a fragrant nose, a mixture of red and blue fruit, well-defined and focused. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, layers of red and black fruit, a little reduction from the lees at the moment that will protect the freshness and allow them to add less SO2. Very persistent on the finish. Excellent.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)

A new contract from 2019. Mid crimson colour. The nose here is a stylish red fruit but with some depth behind more together than Les Véroilles. Very even across the palate with medium plus length. You have to wait a bit but the finish shows quite how good this is. Drink from 2026-2032.

Burghound (90-92)

Highly restrained if not mute aromas are comprised by notes of green apple, just sliced lemon, anise and plenty of mineral reduction character. There is both excellent intensity and minerality to the big-bodied and powerful flavors that conclude in a bone-dry, linear and borderline strict finale that doesn't have the length it usually does. This of course may change but it would be fair to say that it's awkward today.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (88-91)

The fruit comes mostly from old vines in Carougeots, plus En Jouise and Belair. Lively pleasing red fruit, shows strawberry behind, raspberry up front, with the peppery finish of a wine which has just missed reaching optimum ripeness. Drink from 2025-2030.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2021 Burn Cottage Vineyard Pinot Noir is alive and energetic, svelte and composed. As I write this, I am sitting at the bottom of the Burn Cottage Vineyard in Lowburn, looking up the rows. This is a mineral, nuanced expression, with graphite and white tea, pomegranate pearls, raspberry licorice, rosehips and crushed pink peppercorns. This is what I came here for. It’s thrilling, lacy, delicate and focused. Exciting wine, exciting drinking. It sits on the palate nicely—evenly weighted, and it spools through the long finish... yes! 13.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2021 Sauvage Vineyard Pinot Noir is supremely pretty. It's elegant and fine and still powerful, thanks to the Bannockburn area; however, the wine itself shows rose petals and spring flowers, graphite and pencil lead, white pepper and tapenade. Svelte and sleek, this is composed and detailed and so, so good. I am (mostly) resisting hyperbole and adverbs here. This is a standout wine from a superstar producer—an asset for the region and indeed the country (and the New World in general). 13.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Wine Advocate (91-93)

Moving to the reds, the 2012 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone, which was tasted from multiple barrels, offers gorgeous Grenache character with white pepper, green herbs and pine-like notes that are grounded by a superb core of fruit. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully fresh and elegant, it should be an outstanding bottle of wine with 12-15 years of longevity.

Over the last 25 years, Etienne Le Riche has been making some of the countries best wines under his own label and now with his son Christo starting to take the reigns, Le Riche is reaching new heights. The respect the wine world has for him was confirmed when Etienne was awarded 'Winemaking Legend' in Tim Atkin MW's 2023 South Africa Special Report.

This is one of South Africa's highest ever scoring Cabernet Sauvignons, and one of its benchmarks for quality, available at a fraction of the price of its direct rivals in Bordeaux. Tim Atkin MW has even gone as far as to call it the "Latour of South Africa".

We have no doubt about the quality of this releases considering the reputation of the estate and that critics as notable as Jancis Robinson MW called it "fairy-tale vintage" where Cabernet Sauvignon thrived and the Wine Advocate put it alongside 2019 for producing "elegant wines that will be highly collectible and long-lived".

Kerin O'Keefe (94)

Made with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo grown 450-570m above sea level, this radiant red opens with heady scents of camphor, red berry, wild herb and spice. Linear and focused, the elegant, racy palate has a pristine quality, delivering strawberry, orange zest and white pepper alongside bright acidity and lithe tannins. The organically-farmed vines are the estate’s youngest at fifteen years old. Fermentation takes place spontaneously in concrete tanks with no temperature control while aging occurs in French and Slavonian casks. The results are a wine with an enticing purity of flavors and class. Drink through 2031.

The Wine Cellar Insider (94-96)

Produced from an assemblage of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, this is one of the darkest wines of the vintage. The nose offers ripe dark berries, licorice, clay, minerality and fresh dark berries. Polished tannins, plush textures and layers of sweet, ripe berries fill your mouth. The suave, fresh wine ends with an expansive, rich finish in the mouth. Very successful for the vintage. This is the first year where Pontet Canet began using a percentage of amphore for the vinification. Alfred Tesseron is clearly on a roll. 94-96 Pts