Vinous (98)

The 2019 Matarocchio is the most elegant and refined edition of pure Cabernet Franc yet. There is plenty of aromatic Franc intensity and tons of depth, but less of the more heavily extracted style that marked the early years. Don’t get me wrong, that approach can work with Franc, as those wines showed, but I find greater delineation, focus and cut here. In 2018 and 2020, this juice was used to improve Guado al Tasso. The 2019 spent 18 months in 100% new oak, all Taransaud barrels.

Expertly crafted by the esteemed Barons de Rothschild, the Reserve Pauillac Speciale 2019 is a sublime testament to the excellence of Pauillac terroir. Sumptuously blended from the finest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, meticulously handpicked from the heart of Bordeaux, the Barons de Rothschild Reserve Pauillac Speciale 2019 showcases the signature depth and complexity associated with Rothschild wines. Extensively matured in French oak barrels, this masterpiece accentuates a profound, velvety palate bursting with decadent notes of dark fruit, truffle, and spices.

Committed to sustainability, Barons de Rothschild meticulously adopts Low Environmental Impact Viticulture, preserving the land for future generations. Embodying over two centuries of winemaking heritage, this extraordinary cuvée continues to uphold the Rothschild family's enduring commitment to quality. The Barons de Rothschild Reserve Pauillac Speciale 2019 is truly a rendezvous of opulence, elegance, and sophistication. Esteemed among aficionados and critics alike, this gem is an absolute must-have in any fine wine collection.

Wine Advocate (95+)

An extraordinary effort in this vintage, this 2008 was made from lower yields than the 2010 (the 2008's equaled 20 hectoliters per hectare) and is a blend of 90% Merlot and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that came in at 14% natural alcohol. Michel Rolland has been the consultant for all the Perse estates since their acquisition, and the 2008's fruit was harvested very late, October 20. The result is a backward, dense purple-colored wine revealing a crushed rock-like liqueur along with highly extracted, massive flavors of black currants, sweet cherries, licorice and toast. This full-bodied effort requires 5-6 years of bottle age and should last for 25-30 years.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

08NF was made from 83% Grands Crus and 17% de Premiers Crus: 60% Pinot Noir from the Premiers and Grands Crus of the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzenay et Verzy); 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs (Mesnil, Chouilly, Cramant, Vertus); 17% of the wines were vinified in oak barrels, and it was aged on its lees for 150 months; The dosage is 2.9 g/l, and it was disgorged in January 2022. This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried. Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine. It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly. The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses. I learned that this cuvée’s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable. As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here – this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible. I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical. While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

One of the most exciting wines of the September Releases, and one that captures the progress and interest around terroir in the Argentinian wine scene right now. This is set at 1,500m elevation, on limestone dominant soils, and it immediately sets itself apart by its soaring aromatics that give nuance and depth, with seductively curling peony and raspberry leaf. Powerful and full of character, somehow translates the idea of minerality that is so argued over in wine - here you feel it in the slightly chalky tannins, the pulses of electricity, and dried herb and fennel studding to the fresh raspberry and red cherry fruits. So good. Ungrafted vines, Fernando Buscema winemaker.

Wine Advocate (96)

The pale, perfumed and elegant red 2019 Dominio Do Bibei is mostly Brancellao with 7% of Mouratón and Grao Negro. It's nuanced and subtle, layered and complex, with a seamless palate, beautifully textured and rich with deep flavors and a fragrant and focused finish. It has clout, tension, balance, perfume, power and elegance. Stunning!

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Eduardo García used fruit from six different villages – Anguix, Baños de Valdearados. La Aguilera, Moradillo, Quintanilla de Onésimo and Tubilla del Lago – to produce the latest vintage of this world-class red, blending their characters as an artist might mix a palette of colours. Spicy, chalky, structured yet refined, with haunting perfume, subtle oak, enviable density, energy and poise and the concentration to age.

James Suckling (99)

Aromas of cedar, earth, tree bark, fruit tea, black tea and cherries. Then it turns to fresh and dried flowers. Medium to full body as it grows on the palate with superb fine tannins that run the length of the wine. It’s structured and powerful with great length. The acid, tannin balance is incredible. Very clear and transparent. What a wine. Drinkable but better in three or four years.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Charmois has slightly more red fruit than the Aux Lavières, hints of potpourri and lavender complementing the cranberry jus and red currants; more cassis aromas develop later. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very sensual and harmonious. The sorbet-fresh finish delivers black cherry fruit laced with citrus fruits. Very fine.

Vinous (96)

Tasted from magnum, the 2004 Grande Cuvée Rosé Alexandra, Laurent-Perrier’s flagship Rosé is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir (on the skins) and 20% Chardonnay vinified together that has only been bottled seven times since 1982. From the very first taste, the 2004 is utterly spectacular. Rich, ample and vertical in feel, the 2004 is dazzling. Dried rose petal, star anise, tobacco, dried flowers, red berry fruit and earthy notes all grace this utterly exquisite Champagne. As good as the 2004 is today – and it is fabulous – it will be even better in another few years’ time. The 2004 has been nothing short of magnificent on both occasions I have tasted it so far.

Wine Advocate (96)

The organic Monteraponi 2019 Baron'Ugo (made with Sangiovese with tiny percentages of Canaiolo and Colorino from 49-year-old vines at a special site with limestone alberese soils perched at 560 meters above sea level) knocks it out of the park in this balanced vintage. The 2019 growing season is known for its concentration and power, and although this wine delivers on those fronts, it does so with a gentle touch. The wine remains slender and focused in presentation with elegant aromas of wild berry, rose, lilac and crushed stone that lift elegantly from the bouquet. Baron'Ugo stands apart in 2019.

Wine Advocate (96)

The organic Monteraponi 2019 Baron'Ugo (made with Sangiovese with tiny percentages of Canaiolo and Colorino from 49-year-old vines at a special site with limestone alberese soils perched at 560 meters above sea level) knocks it out of the park in this balanced vintage. The 2019 growing season is known for its concentration and power, and although this wine delivers on those fronts, it does so with a gentle touch. The wine remains slender and focused in presentation with elegant aromas of wild berry, rose, lilac and crushed stone that lift elegantly from the bouquet. Baron'Ugo stands apart in 2019.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2019 Paveil de Luze is bursting at the seams with super-ripe dark red fruit, kirsch, blood orange, rose petal and spice. There's good freshness to play off some of the more exotic flavors. This is an especially racy Margaux with tons of character. The 2019 is impressive, just as it was from barrel.

The Real Review (97)

Winemaking orchestrated by François Millet from Chambolle-Musigny. Seductively silken texture with great mouth-feel. Dense, fruit-packed wine with cassis, dark cherry, berry and chocolate/mocha flavours. Nicely layered finish revealing true complexity.

James Suckling (98)

Perfumed and classy with fresh thyme and currants with some lead pencil. Medium-bodied with very crunchy fruit and a bright and energetic finish. Lively acidity frames the wine with fine tannins. Shows brightness and vivacity. Cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. Tight now but will come out beautifully with bottle age. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Try after 2028.

Kerin O'Keefe (98)

The 2019 Brunello from Salvioni is utterly gorgeous, starting with its intense aromas of lavender, new leather, perfumed berry, eucalyptus and pipe tobacco. Delicious and full-bodied but showing elegant restraint, the youthfully austere palate shows Marasca cherry, cranberry, star anise and black tea set against tightly wound, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. Give this beauty time to fully develop.

The Wine Independent (100)

This 2019 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia is really very special. A subtle change has occurred and the typically aristocratic and elegant finesse of Sassicaia now has a little more joie de vivre. It is intense and deeply concentrated without being heavy and with very fine, beautifully integrated tannins that harmonize with the body of the wine. Carlo Paoli, MD and head of winemaking, views 2019 as “one of the great vintages of the last decades. Although it was not generous in quantity (about 15% less than in 2016), for the quality of the grapes… it is to be considered exceptional.” The winemaking team are at their peak in terms of understanding and managing the vineyards and the more extreme vintage variations they face due to climate change. There were 280,000 bottles made this year but in response to climate change, Paoli plans to reduce the quantity. The 2019 reminds me a lot of the sublime 2016 but somehow it is bolder with even more energy, vivacity, and exuberance. Drink from 2024-2050.

James Suckling (98)

This has a complex array of blackberries, black cherries, cocoa, dried herbs, slate, tobacco, olives and charred bark. Some dried roses and iodine, too. Medium-to full-bodied with firm yet refined tannins. Powerful, in an understated way. Long. 73% cabernet sauvignon, 7% cabernet franc and 20% sangiovese. Try in 2025.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Roca Madre is a remarkable Malbec from an extreme site in the Limarí Andes, located at 1,600 metres on volcanic soils. Intense, focused, herbal and refreshing, with well-handled coffee bean oak, stylish tannins, lots of energy and zip, a violet top note and intense raspberry, plum, blueberry and black forest gâteau flavours.

Decanter (96)

It was a dry vintage up to August, which turned exceptionally wet and cool. September saved the vintage with the ideal weather conditions - low rainfall and cool nights. The graceful nose opens to white flowers, ripe apricot and citrus hints. It is tense and refined, with a vivid mineral core balanced by pristine acidity and some toasted notes on the finish. It's not the most expressive today, but wait for it to awaken. This is built for cellaring.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Tenuta Degli Dei is gorgeous. Cabernet aromas drive the balance in this beautifully vibrant, structured Panzano red. Mocha, dried leaves, tobacco, espresso and incense abound. I would give this a few years to soften, as the tannins are pretty imposing at this stage. The 2019 is a fine follow up to the 2018.

Vinous (95)

Just a baby today, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is darkly alluring with a youthfully coy bouquet that requires coaxing as dusty earth and dried flowers slowly take on hints of incense and black cherries. It flows easily across the palate, silky and refined with building tension as brisk acidity and minerals mingle with edgy tannins toward the close. The 2019 finishes dramatically long and structured with a pleasantly bitter tinge. A resonance of salted licorice and cedar lingers on and on. Valdicava has captured the radiance of the vintage.

Vinous (97)

Possibly immortal, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli evolves slowly in the glass, at first dark and dusty with dried violets, cedar and clove. Patience rewards the taster as complex hints of spiced oranges emerge, followed by suggestions of lavender, chalk dust and wild strawberries. This floods the palate with textures of pure silk, weighty yet energetic, with a dense wave of tart wild berry fruits underscored by salty mineral tones and licorice. A core of brisk acidity maintains harmony throughout as a bitter tinge of boysenberry and cocoa settles in, framed by youthfully gripping tannins. The 2019 Vigna Montosoli is an unbridled beast in need of taming. This is an epic wine in the making.

Wine Enthusiast (97)

One of the most renowned Chardonnays in Australia, the latest release is a knockout. A cool vintage allowed for gorgeous natural acidity and bright fruit to shine. Being the most cellarworthy of the Vasse Chards, Heytesbury is always structuredand more oak driven when young. It opens with heady aromas of toasted nuts, flint, seashell, vanilla pod and a seaweed-like umami note amid melon and lemon curd. The palate is fabulously fresh with textural complexity, and lingering nut, saline and citrusnotes on the lengthy finish.

James Suckling (98)

What a nose, garnering complexity and depth. A wide spectrum of aromas that range from blackberries and blueberries to graphite, tree bark and wet earth. A medium-to full-bodied red, showing so much fleshy fruit and powerful, chalky tannins. But never imposing nor flattering. Impeccable poise, with a long, tight finish. This is the kind of wine that you can drink now or lay down for two decades. Better from 2025.