Wine Advocate (99)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru is magical, mingling notions of mulberries, cherries and cassis with scents of bergamot, black tea, licorice, exotic spices and peonies. Full-bodied, rich and resonant, with a broad attack, huge mid-palate amplitude and a supple, seamless, elegantly muscular profile, this is a remarkably powerful but also profoundly complex, intellectually and sensually thrilling young wine.

Vinous (97-99)

Predictably, the 2021 La Tâche Grand Cru threatens to nonchalantly walk away with wine of a (difficult) vintage with a showstopping display from barrel. There are some years when La Tâche does not mess about. Not playing the audience, no toying, just a direct, penetrating, kaleidoscopic bouquet that verges on ineffable to describe. Amazing transparency and delineation, if the aromatics were music, it would be a harp soloist plucking strings in an empty cavernous hall. Ebullient red fruit, a hint of wild and dampish moorland emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, heavenly balanced with tremendous length as it fans out without a care in the world. Breathtaking.

Vinous (99)

The 2008 Montrachet from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti ranks amongst not only the best vintages that I have tasted from the domaine, but possibly the greatest white Burgundy I have ever tasted. The nose is breathtaking in terms of its precision and mineralité. There are not overt, easily definable aromas in situ, more an articulation of the vineyard that translates every single atom where it came from. The palate is bewitching in terms of its perfect bead of acidity, laser-like focus and the vein of salinité that leaves you begging for more. This is close to perfection. Tasted at the mature white Burgundy dinner in Hong Kong.

Vinous (99)

I can’t think of a better or more appropriate wine to bring the evening to a close than the 2010 Montrachet, a vintage that marries power and elegance like few before it. Dense and powerful in the glass, with tremendous textural richness, the 2010 shows remarkable transparency, with layers of citrus peel, crushed rock, slate, mint and dried flowers that build into the huge, explosive finish. Simply put, the 2010 is stratospheric. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

Wine Advocate (97)

The Montrachet was picked on 6 September at a respectable 37.1hl/ha. Lucid in colour, perhaps a little deeper than expected, it has a multi-faceted nose that you have to monitor over one hour. Hints of almond and butterscotch emerge at first, then salted caramel, pralines and peach skin. It is mercurial and utterly alluring. The palate is intense on the entry and immediately expresses a sense of vitality and tension. This Montrachet is suffused with great weight in the mouth with subtle touches of orange peel, almond and hazelnut that ebb with time. It mellows in the glass but never dispensing with one iota of tension, yet seeming if anything to gain in volume. This epitomizes great Montrachet. 265 cases produced. Drink 2016-2030+.

Burghound (96)

A whiff of post-bottling reduction does little to detract from the strikingly well-layered and ever-so-mildly exotic fruit, white flower and softly wooded nose. The super-rich and full-bodied yet beautifully delineated flavors possess a borderline painful intensity along with a taut muscularity before culminating a focused, tightly wound and powerful finale that really fans out as it sits on the palate. Moreover this markedly dry but not really austere effort is what I describe as sneaky long because just as the finish appears to be dying away it suddenly come back and plays hide and seek with your palate. Like most vintages of the Domaine's Montrachet this is undeniably built-to-age but unlike some of them the 2013 rendition is not likely to drink particularly well before the age of at least 10 and should reward somewhere between 15 and 20.

Vinous (98+)

Bright yellow-straw. Knockout soil-driven aromas and flavors of crushed rock, menthol, mint, ginger, white flowers, hazelnut and iodiney minerality, with a hint of fresh pear emerging with time in the glass: it would be easier to list what I didn't find in this wine! As tactile as a solid but with extraordinary mineral energy--and a bit of unabsorbed CO2--giving the middle palate astounding lift and a light touch. In a very pure, airy style but with great richness and some very ripe suggestions of marzipan and candied stone fruits. Finishes with outstanding gingery thrust and rising length, and the tannic structure of a red wine. A legend in the making.

Wine Advocate (96+)

The 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru is still predictably youthful, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, buttered citrus, tangerine oil and a prominent framing of very classy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and concentrated, both satiny and textural without being remotely unctuous, and underpinned by succulent, even tangy acids. At this stage, where the wine really shows its pedigree is in its extraordinarily long, oak-inflected finish. Given the vintage, one might have expected more ripeness and drama, but the domaine is picking its Montrachet a bit earlier these days, and that has done it no harm at all in 2015. It would be interesting to taste this wine alongside Ramonet's example, which is both more textural and less overtly oaky, but my sense is that the two are on the same qualitative level in their very different styles.

Burghound (98)

A more reserved nose grudgingly reveals its even more floral-infused aromas of clove, anise, exotic tea, petrol and enough wood to mention. The exceptionally rich and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors brim with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the even firmer acid spine shaping the redoubtably powerful and almost painfully intense finish that seems to have no end. This is absolutely brilliant and one of the brightest highlights of the vintage though note well that as is typically the case with this wine, it's going to require extended patience if you wish to see it at its peak.

Vinous (94)

The 1991 Richebourg Grand Cru replicates the bottle that I tasted in 2015. Showing just slight ageing on the rim, it has a compelling, quite meaty bouquet with blackberry, briary and loamy notes, great depth and power, though maybe not quite as charming as the 1990. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, less tart than the previous bottle with a grippy, truffle and cedar-tinged finish that fans out wonderfully. This has got much more to give, though you could happily polish off a bottle now. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.

Vinous (95)

The 1996 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wine that I have drunk several times. The intense nose has opened a little since my last encounter, evolving to offer enticing scents of violet and earthenware notes; a hint of brine emerges with time. The palate is as introverted as previous bottles but opens with blackberry, meat juices and briar. There is quite a sharp line of acidity that keeps it edgy in style, and still that persistent finish. Superb. Tasted at the domaine with Bertrand de Villaine.

LaRVF (95)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru 1997

Vinous (99)

The 1999 Richebourg is simply majestic. In fact, 1999 may be a year in which the Richebourg is just a bit more complex than the La Tâche. Hoisin, smoke, exotic spices and rich, unctuous fruit flesh out in the glass. The 1999 has more than enough fruit to fill out its big, broad frame. It, too, will drink well for several decades.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (93)

Bright medium-deep red. High-pitched, pure aromas of red berries, spices and flowers; a bit less "purple" than usual for this cuvee Gentle and rich but not yet focused in the mouth, with a pronounced note of coffee torrefaction. I find this a bit vague for Richebourg today, but certainly a lovely pinot in the making.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Slightly more blueish purple than the Romanée St Vivant. Broad but less flattering on the nose than the RSV. Indeed it is slightly overshadowed by the RSV; I wonder whether the Domaine might in some years show the Richebourg before the RSV? More obviously 2004 than the RSB because a bit tighter and less obviously ripe with even the merest hint of green notes. This is a sinewy wine – more musclar than many Richebourgs. Fine, pure and extremely racy. Great refreshment value – certainly very, very different frim the RSV. Aerienne/ethereal. It should age well for it opened even in the glass but the acidity is particularly notable.

Vinous (97+)

I am surprised by how good the 2009 Richebourg is at this stage. Swaths of tannin frame an explosive core of fruit in a Burgundy endowed with a real sense of gravitas. The radiance and ripeness of the year has filled out the wine nicely, yet the 2009 remains a quintessentially powerful, substantial wine that will last decades. Although the 2009 is many years away from peaking, it is a real joy to catch it at this early stage.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

The 2010 Richebourg is a kaleidoscope of black fruit, graphite, mint, violets and spices. It is a towering, statuesque wine that completely saturates the palate in all directions, seemingly at the same time. The 2010 stands out for its beguiling, totally exquisite aromatics. The trademark Richebourg structure is present, but this seems to be a vintage where finesse takes precedence over sheer power. Anticipated maturity: 2030-2060.

Vinous (95)

A wine of depth, power and richness, the 2011 Richebourg brings together the intensity of the Grands-Échézeaux with floral overtones and tannins that resemble those of the Romanée St.-Vivant, making for a wonderfully complete Burgundy. Savory and floral notes meld into graphite, plum and violet notes, leading to a finish graced with substantial energy and polish.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2013 Richebourg Grand Cru was harvested on the afternoon of October 9 and then the following day at just 16.5 hectoliters per hectare, the second lowest after the Echézeaux. It is clearly the elder brother of the 2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant with intense dark cherry, black plum, tayberry and crushed violet aromas (the latter, perhaps a nod to the Romanée-Saint-Vivant). As with all the domaine's wines this year, it is beautifully defined with beguiling transparency. The palate is medium-bodied, but there is serious weight and presence here. It is struck through with sorbet-like freshness, hints of blood orange tincturing the vibrant red fruit, seguing into a finish with great conviction and confidence, a Richebourg self-aware though not preening about its status. This is a Richebourg to cellar for several years and to enjoy over the next 20 to 25 years (or more). Production is 551 cases. Tasted February 2016.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 20 and 21 September at 29.75 hectoliters per hectare. This has a gorgeous, flamboyant, vivacious bouquet with blossoming red cherries, crushed strawberry, less undergrowth scents compared to the showing in barrel, replaced by pressed rose petal notes. There is wonderful delineation and exuberance here. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively, spicy, white pepper-tinged entry, just a faint hint of black truffle tincturing the dark berry fruit. There is superb backbone and density here, a Richebourg delivering on its promise from barrel, plus it comes armed with an extraordinarily long aftertaste that evokes marine-like images, something wild and estuarine. While not as flattering as the Romanée-Saint-Vivant at the moment, just wait ten years. 1,160 cases produced. Tasted February 2017.

Jancis Robinson (20)

More notably stemmy than their others in this vintage, giving a soy, leaf and iodine character as well as spice and wood scents. An absolute belter, showing extraordinary fruit definition – cranberry, redcurrant, rhubarb – and pitch-perfect harmony on the finish. It’s the scent that stays with you, though – the unholy complexity of flavour that makes such wines so special.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru boasts one of the most expressive aromatics from barrel, offering dark berries mixed with crushed limestone, pressed flowers and oyster shell, the fruit becoming more intense with aeration. The palate is extremely cohesive with unerring symmetry, filigreed tannins (perhaps more like a Romanée-Saint-Vivant) and immense depth endowed upon its arching, cathedral-like structure. This is a brilliant Richebourg in the making.

Vinous (96-98)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru, the first cuvées to be picked on September 15–16 at 21h/ha, has a very intense marine-influenced bouquet, Japanese nori and shucked oyster shells permeating the black fruit. This is very distinctive from other Richebourgs that I have tasted. The palate displays exquisite balance and astonishing focus. One of the most saline Richebourg wines that I have tasted from the domaine out of barrel, this exerts a gentle grip in the mouth and culminates in a sapid finish that rivets your feet to the ground. Profound.

Vinous (95)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 23 and 24 August, the first fruit to be picked. Yields are 31.7hL/ha. It has a very perfumed bouquet, with more intensity than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but I wonder whether it matches it for complexity? There is a lovely background ember scent with Earl Grey loitering in the wings. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, slightly confit on the entry (more so than the RSV), building towards a very convincing finish that possibly doesn’t fully deliver the precision of the previous vintage. This is forthright, but personally, I would like more intellect to develop, a facet perhaps it is hiding up its sleeve. 992 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London.

At just under two hectares in size, this plot of land represents a rather insignificant micro-dot, producing a meagre 462 cases on average annually. Romanée-Conti is flanked on all sides by exceedingly grand and much larger Grands Crus, ranging from its mighty namesake La Romanée to the imperious Richebourg. From the sky, Romanée-Conti even looks to have been squeezed by its bulky neighbours into a perfect square sitting mid-slope with a barely-perceptible rise of 3-4 meters. 

 

The location of Romanée-Conti is one possible factor in its staggering excellence. Its tiny size sees it cover the absolute heart of the absolute best position in Vosne-Romanée. Its situation and gently sloping aspect ensure maximum exposure to daytime sunlight and heat - the grapes here generally ripen earlier than in its esteemed cousins which, in a cool climate such as Burgundy, enables the fruit to develop levels upon levels of flavour complexity whilst retaining acidity. Whilst the vineyard has occasionally been hit by hail, the great scourge of Burgundy, Aubert de Villaine has never once seen it blighted by frost or mineral deficiency. 

 

Those broaching their very first bottle of Romanée-Conti often make the mistake of forecasting the same qualities as other wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti but augmented. More of the power of Richebourg, more of the richness of La Tâche etc. This is a mistake. Entirely less dense and opulent than the others, Romanée-Conti is the platonic ideal of delicacy and intensity made manifest. The very finest and most elaborate tapestry weaves its way through your olfactory nerves, the bouquet of roses and tar fixes you like a blue eyed-stare. Romanée-Conti glides across one’s palate like Alexander positioning himself atop the fallen Darius’ throne - this wine is not interested in pleasing you, it wants its drinkers to bask in its glory.