Vinous (98)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and harder to fully capture with words, an attribute many, if not most, of the world’s greatest wines share.

Vinous (98)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and harder to fully capture with words, an attribute many, if not most, of the world’s greatest wines share.

Vinous (98)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and harder to fully capture with words, an attribute many, if not most, of the world’s greatest wines share.

Vinous (98)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and harder to fully capture with words, an attribute many, if not most, of the world’s greatest wines share.

Vinous (98)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and harder to fully capture with words, an attribute many, if not most, of the world’s greatest wines share.

Vinous (97)

(just under 13% alcohol, without chaptalization): Good bright, full red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cranberry, spices, flowers and white pepper. Wonderfully sappy and fine-grained, with outstanding inner-mouth mineral-driven perfume to the taut flavors of pungent red berries, flowers and spices. Most impressive today on the inexorably building finish, which features very suave tannins and great energy and lift. Built for a very long life in bottle and yet this great La Tache already reveals considerable charm.

Vinous (97)

(just under 13% alcohol, without chaptalization): Good bright, full red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cranberry, spices, flowers and white pepper. Wonderfully sappy and fine-grained, with outstanding inner-mouth mineral-driven perfume to the taut flavors of pungent red berries, flowers and spices. Most impressive today on the inexorably building finish, which features very suave tannins and great energy and lift. Built for a very long life in bottle and yet this great La Tache already reveals considerable charm.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (95-98)

Bright, full red. Sexy, multidimensional nose offers red berries, crushed stone, Oriental spices and a pungent smoky complexity. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, with dark raspberry, licorice and mineral flavors combining density and a light touch. This boasts a near-perfect balance of fruits, minerals, acidity and suave, fine-grained tannins. The slowly mounting finish saturates every square millimeter of the palate and builds inexorably. A great showing today. DRC produced 68 barrels of this juice in 2011: you do the math.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (95-98)

Bright, full red. Sexy, multidimensional nose offers red berries, crushed stone, Oriental spices and a pungent smoky complexity. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, with dark raspberry, licorice and mineral flavors combining density and a light touch. This boasts a near-perfect balance of fruits, minerals, acidity and suave, fine-grained tannins. The slowly mounting finish saturates every square millimeter of the palate and builds inexorably. A great showing today. DRC produced 68 barrels of this juice in 2011: you do the math.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (95-98)

Bright, full red. Sexy, multidimensional nose offers red berries, crushed stone, Oriental spices and a pungent smoky complexity. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, with dark raspberry, licorice and mineral flavors combining density and a light touch. This boasts a near-perfect balance of fruits, minerals, acidity and suave, fine-grained tannins. The slowly mounting finish saturates every square millimeter of the palate and builds inexorably. A great showing today. DRC produced 68 barrels of this juice in 2011: you do the math.

Vinous (97)

Bright, dark red. Spellbinding perfume combines red berries, cherry, Oriental spices, rose petal, licorice, pepper and minerals. Perfectly balanced from the outset, showing outstanding clarity and lift, not to mention superb sappy depth, to its multifaceted red fruit, mineral, spice and floral flavors. The combination of sweetness and grip is extraordinary, as is the wine's expanding, mounting aftertaste. Will this beauty ever go into a truly sullen stage? Probably.

Vinous (97+)

The 2013 La Tâche Grand Cru is dazzling. Bright and nuanced, the 2013 sizzles with energy right out of the gate. The 2013 is just starting to open. Ideally, a few more years in the cellar would be helpful, but the 2013 is so inviting at this stage. This late-ripening year produced a La Tâche that bristles with tension.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Lightish garnet. Like the Richebourg, there is an initial sweetness here. Smells so cool and delicately fragrant. Then on the palate, there is real power, the tannins holding everything in tightly as on the Grands Échezeaux but here the acidity spills around the edges and lifts it to terrific intensity on the palate. Firm, chalky texture but still fluid. Long and so refined that the power is disguised. In the empty glass, there is a return to fruit sweetness, showing the complexity and range in this wine.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2015 La Tâche Grand Cru is a young classic, soaring from the glass with an exotic and stunningly complex bouquet of dark berries, plums, hoisin, smoked duck, dark chocolate, licorice and Chinese five spice, with just a touch of rose hip on the upper register. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and authoritative, with more mid-palate depth than the Richebourg, its attack more textural and layered. The tannins here are fine grained but firm—swathed in an ample core of plummy, almost savory fruit—and the finish is long and scintillating. Cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare and harvested September 7 and 8.

Vinous (98)

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just sit and nose it all day. The palate is beautifully balanced, the spicy red fruit framed by filigreed tannin that belies its backbone. There is a gentle crescendo from start to finish, though being La Tâche it retains complete control. The precision and detail in the final third are deeply impressive. Less fruit-forward than the 2015, and lightly spiced, with an insistent grip. There is a captivating sense of completeness that will ensure longevity through three or four decades. 1,814 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.

Vinous (98)

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just sit and nose it all day. The palate is beautifully balanced, the spicy red fruit framed by filigreed tannin that belies its backbone. There is a gentle crescendo from start to finish, though being La Tâche it retains complete control. The precision and detail in the final third are deeply impressive. Less fruit-forward than the 2015, and lightly spiced, with an insistent grip. There is a captivating sense of completeness that will ensure longevity through three or four decades. 1,814 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Pale ruby. Really quite intense on the nose. Glorious spread of ripe fruit and freshness. Very immediate. Such a peacock’s tail on the finish too! Rich yet far from sweet. Massive concentration. Resonates with violets and forest charm on the finish. Gorgeous. Such appeal! 2,082 cases

Burghound (99)

This is unusually cool and airy in the context of what is typical in 2018 with its restrained and beautifully layered nose of rose petal, violet, lavender, lilac, sandalwood and soy nuances that add incredible breadth to the mostly red berry-suffused aromas, all of which is trimmed in very subtle oak influence. There is outstanding volume to the big, muscular and robust flavors that also possess focused power where the intensity does a slow build from the mid-palate to the explosively long and decidedly austere finish that just lasts and lasts. This is somewhat less 2018 in style than the prior wines though it is clearly quite ripe. It is also a bit less refined than it usually is, at least at this early stage, though to be fair it is still in its formative stages so we will see how it comes along with more aging. I would observe though that it is already abundantly clear that this is a stunningly great LT; indeed it may well rival the 1999 in time, is going to develop quite slowly over a very long period.

Burghound (99)

This is unusually cool and airy in the context of what is typical in 2018 with its restrained and beautifully layered nose of rose petal, violet, lavender, lilac, sandalwood and soy nuances that add incredible breadth to the mostly red berry-suffused aromas, all of which is trimmed in very subtle oak influence. There is outstanding volume to the big, muscular and robust flavors that also possess focused power where the intensity does a slow build from the mid-palate to the explosively long and decidedly austere finish that just lasts and lasts. This is somewhat less 2018 in style than the prior wines though it is clearly quite ripe. It is also a bit less refined than it usually is, at least at this early stage, though to be fair it is still in its formative stages so we will see how it comes along with more aging. I would observe though that it is already abundantly clear that this is a stunningly great LT; indeed it may well rival the 1999 in time, is going to develop quite slowly over a very long period.

Wine Advocate (99+)

The 2019 La Tâche Grand Cru is sublime. Mingling aromas of wild berries and bergamot with notions of rose petals, exotic spices, violets, clove and cinnamon, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a multidimensional palate of breathtaking plenitude. Elegantly muscular, this is a vibrant, pristinely balanced wine that concludes with a long, resonant finish. More structured and broader shouldered than the ethereal Romanée-Conti itself, this will demand and richly reward bottle age.

Wine Advocate (99)

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru is magical, mingling notions of mulberries, cherries and cassis with scents of bergamot, black tea, licorice, exotic spices and peonies. Full-bodied, rich and resonant, with a broad attack, huge mid-palate amplitude and a supple, seamless, elegantly muscular profile, this is a remarkably powerful but also profoundly complex, intellectually and sensually thrilling young wine.

Vinous (97-99)

Predictably, the 2021 La Tâche Grand Cru threatens to nonchalantly walk away with wine of a (difficult) vintage with a showstopping display from barrel. There are some years when La Tâche does not mess about. Not playing the audience, no toying, just a direct, penetrating, kaleidoscopic bouquet that verges on ineffable to describe. Amazing transparency and delineation, if the aromatics were music, it would be a harp soloist plucking strings in an empty cavernous hall. Ebullient red fruit, a hint of wild and dampish moorland emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, heavenly balanced with tremendous length as it fans out without a care in the world. Breathtaking.

At just under two hectares in size, this plot of land represents a rather insignificant micro-dot, producing a meagre 462 cases on average annually. Romanée-Conti is flanked on all sides by exceedingly grand and much larger Grands Crus, ranging from its mighty namesake La Romanée to the imperious Richebourg. From the sky, Romanée-Conti even looks to have been squeezed by its bulky neighbours into a perfect square sitting mid-slope with a barely-perceptible rise of 3-4 meters. 

 

The location of Romanée-Conti is one possible factor in its staggering excellence. Its tiny size sees it cover the absolute heart of the absolute best position in Vosne-Romanée. Its situation and gently sloping aspect ensure maximum exposure to daytime sunlight and heat - the grapes here generally ripen earlier than in its esteemed cousins which, in a cool climate such as Burgundy, enables the fruit to develop levels upon levels of flavour complexity whilst retaining acidity. Whilst the vineyard has occasionally been hit by hail, the great scourge of Burgundy, Aubert de Villaine has never once seen it blighted by frost or mineral deficiency. 

 

Those broaching their very first bottle of Romanée-Conti often make the mistake of forecasting the same qualities as other wines from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti but augmented. More of the power of Richebourg, more of the richness of La Tâche etc. This is a mistake. Entirely less dense and opulent than the others, Romanée-Conti is the platonic ideal of delicacy and intensity made manifest. The very finest and most elaborate tapestry weaves its way through your olfactory nerves, the bouquet of roses and tar fixes you like a blue eyed-stare. Romanée-Conti glides across one’s palate like Alexander positioning himself atop the fallen Darius’ throne - this wine is not interested in pleasing you, it wants its drinkers to bask in its glory.  

Vinous (85)

Many see the mid-1970s as the nadir for the domaine, and this 1975 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is frankly more interesting than pleasurable. Completely bricked through to the core, it has a light, airy nose displaying vestiges of red fruit, molasses and just a slight vegetal note, though not as marked as expected. The palate is, in fact, quite well balanced, though it is shallow and tapers severely toward the finish, and leaves a sous-bois aftertaste. Not terrible by a long shot, though as a postscript, it is interesting to note how favorably the 1975 Echézeaux showed when poured blind just a few weeks later.

Wine Advocate (100)

The Romanee-Conti is utterly mind blowing. The heady, intoxicating bouquet delivered penetrating and sublime aromas that were even more intense than those from the La Tache. On the palate, there is a veritable smorgasbord of earthly and heavenly delights. Needless to say, it is very rich, very opulent, and very concentrated. Red burgundy and red wine do not get any better than this. My guess is that it will peak between 1990 and 2005, as it is a bit more forward than either the La Tache or Richebourg.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 1990 Romanee-Conti should ultimately be the most compelling and complex of the DRC wines. Normally it possesses a lighter color than either La Tache or Richebourg, but in 1990 it boasts a surprisingly saturated color that is the equal of La Tache and Richebourg. The nose offers up sweet, clove, cinnamon, and blackberry aromas intermingled with toasty, smoky new oak. Lavishly rich and full-bodied, with abundant tannins, this profound, surprisingly large-scaled, tannic wine boasts more muscle than usual. Let's hope that the billionaires that buy it have as much taste as money. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2025 .