Wine Advocate (93)

Smoky, gamey, and crushed stone scents on the nose of Leroy’s 2007 Savigny-Les-Beaune Les Narbantons segue into a palate of remarkable depth and grip, featuring peat, chalk, humus, roasted meats, toasted nuts, musk, and sea water. This is one of those red Burgundies that prompts you to wonder how such flavors could come from grapes, but that at the same time seems uncannily at home mingling with saliva in human mouths. It also perfectly exemplifies the iron-first-in-velvet-glove metaphor with a chain mail-like sense of fine-grained resilience that in no way detracts from textural allure. Bize-Leroy compares this (like several in Savigny) under-rated site with Corton, and the analogy is especially apt in such an instance of grand cru aspirations fulfilled. I would anticipate at least the better part of two decades’ fascination.

Wine Advocate (89)

Leading with a champignon-like note I would more have expected from Champans or other sites further north in this commune, Leroy’s 2007 Volnay Santenots du Milieu brims as well with red currant and cherry. Less refined in texture or refreshing (despite a tart fruit skin edge) than most Pinots in the present collection, it finishes with decisive chalkiness and persistent ripe fruit, but it isn’t clear to me that its faintly gum-numbing sense of tannic firmness will translate into longevity. Here’s one Leroy 2007 I would approach the same way as so many others of its vintage, namely to cellar for at most a few years, watchfully and recognizing that the wine might of course make a fool of me.

Vinous (95)

One of the highlights in this lineup, the 2014 Volnay Santenots du Milieu is a total knock-out. Soaring aromatics lead into a core of dark-toned fruit in a powerful, brooding Volnay. The Santenots is endowed with serious palate intensity and gravitas from start to finish. Scents of smoke, licorice and exotic spices round things out in style. The 2014 Santenots is a big wine within the context of Volnay, and yet all the elements are deftly balanced. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports that there was quite a bit of hail in 2014. And the wine? It is superb. It's as simple as that.

Vinous (93+)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, dark chocolate and minerals, with a slightly grilled quality; like a more intense, urgent version of the Genaivrieres. Very ripe but closed in the mouth, with a superb sappy sweetness and a hint of marzipan. Offers impressive fat and texture, with harmonious framing acidity. Finishes very long, with firm but suave tannins and lingering notes of spices and minerals.

Vinous (92+)

Bright red. Aromas of red berries, violet, smoke, truffle and earth. Sweet and lush in the mouth; very rich but less expressive today than on the nose. This will age more on its strong but even tannins than on its acids. Doesn't offer quite the snap of the Beaux-Monts though.

Vinous (91-94)

Full ruby-red. Reticent but vibrant nose dominated by black raspberry and spices. Bright, spicy and pure; not as thick as the Brulees but more sharply defined. A serious, deep wine with terrific underlying structure and grip. Very fresh and unevolved. Like the Nuits Boudots, this seems close in quality to its 1998 counterpart. Leroy owns a relatively large 2.62-hectare chunk of this excellent premier cru.

Vinous (94)

The 2000 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts 1er Cru from Leroy offers crisp red fruit, bay leaf and clove on a rip-roaring nose that pays little heed to the reputation of this “tricky” Burgundy vintage. It just harnesses the horsepower that this Premier Cru can gift a wine and runs with it. The palate is more measured: very well balanced and quite succulent in style, with wonderful definition and a fresh, slightly brine-tinged finish that has an unerring crystalline quality to it. Quite brilliant considering the vintage. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris.

Vinous (91+)

Deep ruby-red. Slightly reduced, reserved nose hints at superripe dark fruits and roasted nuts. Extremely ripe but a bit youthfully stunted, with slightly roasted, chocolatey flavor. Solid and chewy, but not revealing its personality today. Finishes with substantial tannins. Today I don't find a lot of verve.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts bursts from the glass with dazzling fruit that covers every inch of the palate. Sweet dark fruit, spices, tar and leather are some of the notes that flesh out on the stunning, multi-dimensional finish. This is a dazzling wine endowed with tons of class and sheer pedigree. It is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts had a slight reduction on the nose that soon blows away. The fruit is darker and broodier here than Aux Brulees with mulberry, raspberry, wild hedgerow and a touch of black olive compote. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, structured tannins lending this Vosne a firm backbone. It is beautifully balanced and extremely pure, not a hair out of place toward the delineated, feminine finish. This should age beautifully – the laser-like focus absolutely riveting.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2011 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts had a slight reduction on the nose that soon blows away. The fruit is darker and broodier here than Aux Brulees with mulberry, raspberry, wild hedgerow and a touch of black olive compote. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, structured tannins lending this Vosne a firm backbone. It is beautifully balanced and extremely pure, not a hair out of place toward the delineated, feminine finish. This should age beautifully – the laser-like focus absolutely riveting.

Wine Advocate (96+)

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts from Domaine Leroy is predictably superb, soaring from the glass with a deep bouquet of black fruits, hoisin, smoked duck and rich spice. On the palate, the wine is extraordinarily concentrated, full-bodied and ample, with grand cru depth and dimension, a fine-grained chassis of tannin and a long, saline finish. Compared to the lavish—even decadent—Aux Brûlées, Les Beaux Monts is more reserved, its stony structure asserting itself more prominently, its mid-palate more taut and less expansive: it will need more time in the cellar.

Wine Advocate (96+)

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts from Domaine Leroy is predictably superb, soaring from the glass with a deep bouquet of black fruits, hoisin, smoked duck and rich spice. On the palate, the wine is extraordinarily concentrated, full-bodied and ample, with grand cru depth and dimension, a fine-grained chassis of tannin and a long, saline finish. Compared to the lavish—even decadent—Aux Brûlées, Les Beaux Monts is more reserved, its stony structure asserting itself more prominently, its mid-palate more taut and less expansive: it will need more time in the cellar.

Discover the exquisite Lignier Michelot Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes 2017, a magnificent expression of the famed French Pinot Noir. Sourced from the spectacular Morey-Saint-Denis appellation in Burgundy, this elegant wine reflects the pedigree of its prestigious terroir. Lignier Michelot, a highly-respected producer with a long-standing reputation for excellence, meticulously cultivates vines that are over 60 years old in chalky-clay soils, producing grapes of superlative quality. The pinot noir grapes for the 2017 vintage were handpicked, before undergoing traditional vinification in oak barrels to harness the unique flavours and complexities required for this prized wine.

The Lignier Michelot Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes 2017 offers a balance of ripe fruit, expressive tannins and a harmonious finish. Dark berry, forest floor and spicy notes on the nose segue to an ever-evolving palate that promises a luxurious, long-lasting finish. The benchmark for classic, elegant Burgundy wine.

Vinous (89-91)

(vinified with 80% whole clusters): Bright, full red. More complex and perfumed than the Charmes, with its raspberry and blueberry aromas lifted by brown spices (Lignier noted that the Charmes was more complex than this wine before the racking but is mute today). Quite tight and savory in the mouth, showing little in the way of early sweetness. Finishes firmly tannic and spicy. This premier cru will need patience.

Wine Advocate (92-94)

Alluring scents of ripe purple plum, black currant, clove, and star anise mark Jadot’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Beaux Monts. Smoked and roasted meat flavors ally themselves to dark fruits and exotic spices on the palate, with subtle hints of caramel and vanilla from the oak accenting rather than intruding. This displays a warmer, more obviously rich and opulent character than many young 2005 Vosnes and than nearly any other 2005s from Jadot. Deep, fat folds of fruit persist with spices and low-toned roasted meat into an imposingly long, sumptuous finish. One could enjoy this soon if it does not close up, but it certainly has the concentration and potential to reward at least five years’ patience.

As an esteemed wine connoisseur, I am delighted to introduce the Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vv 2019. A quintessentially prestigious yet artisanal name in the world of Chablis, Louis Michel & Fils flawlessly marries traditional winemaking methods with modern techniques. This specific vintage was cultivated in the prestigious vineyards of Butteaux, renowned for their Kimmeridgian limestone soil. The wine then spent 12 months on fine lees in stainless-steel tanks, respecting the tradition of non-oak Chablis.

The result is truly enchanting: a dazzling golden wine, unveiling an aromatic bouquet of ripe, citrus fruits and dried flowers, with a whisper of mineral depth. On the palate, the structure is remarkably precise, brimming with an exquisite tension of acid and fruit, and culminates in a delicate, lengthy finish. The Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vv 2019 is a pristine expression of the quintessential elegance and profound complexity found in the fine wines of Chablis.

Discover the ethereal allure of the Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vv 2020, a delicate composition nurtured in the picturesque vineyards of Chablis, in Bourgogne, France. This discerning Chardonnay is the work of Louis Michel & Fils, a remarkable producer known for their commitment to tradition and respect for terroir since 1850.

From the steep slopes of the Butteaux vineyard, the grapes for the 2020 vintage enjoyed excellent climatic conditions. The wine's elegant texture, crisp acuity, and balanced minerality can be attributed to the Kimmeridgian soil, abundant in marine fossils. Adhering to parcellar vinification, each cluster is aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks to preserve its unique character. With tantalising notes of white fruit, coupled with subtle hints of spices and a long finish, the Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vv 2020 offers an enchanting gustatory experience deserving of any fine wine authority's attention.

Vinous (91-94)

(fairly late malo here): Aromas of pear, green apple, menthol, mint leaf and rosemary, complicated by warm southern herbs. Very rich, even opulent wine with noteworthy sucrosité and lowish acidity. This very tactile, smooth wine boasts excellent breadth without any rough edges. Finishes quite dry and rich, with palate-staining length and an emerging impression of lemon drop acidity.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2020 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru certainly has the most opulent bouquet amongst d’Angerville’s ‘20s with exuberant black cherries, raspberry coulis, hints of fresh fig and black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with quasi-chalky tannins, taut and fresh, quite saline and poised with a harmonious finish not dissimilar to the Taillepieds. Satisfying persistence here, but in keeping with d'Angerville's other Volnays, it is quite serious in personality and this will oblige cellaring. Quite regal.

Vinous (93)

Good medium red. Lovely perfume of raspberry and flowers complicated by subtle soil tones. Seamless, balanced and moderately rich, offering nuanced flavors of red fruits, flowers, earth, herbs and spices and no rough edges. This seems fully mature but has the spine and energy to last. Finishes with refined tannins, subtle sweetness and lovely slow-building savory length. Incidentally, the last time I tried this wine--in 2017 at the estate--it was silky and sweet but a bit more decadent and seemed to be evolving quickly. But, judging from the wine's low pH, this bottle may well be more representative. It was certainly firmer and more delineated. (13.15% alcohol; September 26 harvest; 35 h/h; 3.25 pH)

Vinous (91+)

Very dark red. Brooding, slightly reduced aromas of black raspberry, menthol, mint, licorice and leather, plus a distinct impression of liqueur-like dried fruits. Thick, tactile and dry; this very powerful Volnay shows as much soil as fruit today. Strong tannins saturate the sides of the mouth and tongue, mostly neutralizing the wine's sweetness. A large-scaled and extreme style but boasts good freshness. This big boy still needs more time in bottle to soften. I suspect that it will go on for another couple of decades. In response to the extreme heat that summer and the very early harvest at the end of August, Renaud de Villette carried out a shorter-then-normal cuvaison, followed by a relatively short élevage with less new oak than usual. (13.65% alcohol; August 26 harvest; 28 h/h; 3.53 pH)

Jancis Robinson (18)

Heady and rich and really rather gorgeous. Very sumptuous.