A wine that punches well above its weight, challenging many a cru La Morra for elegance, balance and longevity in its structure, this is a well-made wine that offers an eloquent insight in to the charms of this most elegant of terroirs making up the patchwork quilt of Barolo. Fine, juicy red and black berry fruit and a subtle floral bitterness to the palate make this essential reading for the vintage.

English critic Matthew Jukes has declared that Lionel's wines are 'worth their weight in gold', and we certainly think that is the case with this Cupano Vino Rosso 4th Edition NV. This is made from a blend of barrels that taste excellent but do not feel ready in time when Cupano blended their Montalcino releases so they were left aside. Instead of waiting to use it for a Brunello that might disrupt the usual annual releases of the estate wines, it has instead become a upmarket 'vin de copains' - wine for friends.

 

This 4th Edition comes from the 2018 and 2019 vintages and is made from 80% Sangiovese that would normally be used in their Brunello di Montalcino or Rosso di Montalcino and 20% Merlot that would usually be used in their superb Super Tuscan Ombrone. With the power on the nose and palate that Cupano is usually associated with, this shows all the wonderful Sangiovese character one could want without the oak that a young Brunello would show.

waiting to use it for a Brunello that might disrupt the usual annual releases of the estate wines, it has instead become a upmarket 'vin de copains' - wine for friends.

 

For each new Vino Rosso release, famous french artist Gerard Fromanger paints a special new label and this 4th edition is the most impressive yet. While production has been upped from the last release, this 4th Edition is still made in tiny quantities with only 830 six packs made.

A unique multi-vintage blend of Brunello di Montalcino from barrels that were not ready when they first bottled the 2015 and 2016, with the addition of some 2018 to add freshness. This is a minute release of just 150 cases.

Wonderfully captivating flavours of Brunello, always very approachable and utterly delicious, with warm sun-baked aromas and lovely smooth developed finish. In fact, This is just like drinking mature Brunello di Montalcino. The palate is velvety with taut, finely-knit tannins. Precise, ripe plum fruit with Italian warmth and refined spiciness, with elegance and lift on the finish.

Wine Advocate (98)

This is a deeply communicative and articulate wine that boasts immense power and persistence. The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta is a creation of enormous beauty and unflinching intensity. The wine speaks at loud volumes with black cherry, spice, tarry smoke, barbecue marinade and grilled rosemary. Those balsam notes add length and continuity to the bouquet. In the mouth, the wine is complete and penetrating. It wraps thickly over the palate to soothe and entice your taste buds. Yet there is enough crispness to keep it from feeling cloying or too heavy. There is a point of tannic astringency on the finish that will accompany this wine over the next decade of its aging evolution. For that reason, it's best to wait before popping the cork on this memorable vinous experience.

James Suckling (97)

A decadent nose of treacle tart, chocolate, tar, tons of black fruit such as blackberries and mulberries and even ash and licorice. A dense, layered mouthfeel makes for a full-bodied palate that's explosive yet somehow so refined and pretty all at the same time. The finish goes on and on. Incredible now, but better to wait for this giant to settle well into 2020.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta is my favorite wine in the retrospective, along with the amazing 2011, 2009 and 1996 vintages. This wine was released at the beginning of this year, and because Dal Forno skipped over the 2014 vintage, this is the only Amarone we will see for a while (until the highly anticipated 2015 is released). The 2013 vintage is characterized by a slightly more streamlined mouthfeel (which isn't saying much given the baseline enormity of these wines) with carefully etched aromas of black cherry, rum cake, dark chocolate and toasted espresso. The 2013 vintage was balanced overall without the sudden heat waves we saw in the summers of 2011 and 2012. The grapes finished a slow and steady ripening process over an extended growing season. The effect is graceful and focused. Put this bottle aside in your cellar for the decades to come.

Each case contains:

2 bottles of 1x75cl Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella 2008 - 98 points | Eric Guido (Vinous)

1 bottle of 1x75cl Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella 2009 - 99 points | Monica Larner (Wine Advocate)

James Suckling (99)

The aromas of this wine are perfect with decadent and wild fragrances of sliced fresh mushrooms, truffles, blackberries. Incredible complexity. Full and balanced. Racy, refined and amazing. The spirit of Cannubi. Drink or hold. But why wait?

James Suckling (99)

Incredible, reserved ripeness and depth already evident on the nose after one whiff, offering plum, cedar, rose hip, sandalwood, and licorice. Full-bodied with superb depth of fruit and an abundance of polished tannins that give the wine poise and grace, even though it’s long and powerful. The quality of the tannins are exceptional. Sheer and refined. This comes from the center of Cannubi. Aged five years in Stockinger cask. Better after 2026.

James Suckling (98)

The fruit feels so comfortable here, in the ripe-red zone; it ranges from cherry kernel to chocolate-coated red plums to glazed cherries. Integrated hints of bark and sandalwood. Full-bodied with strapping tannins and muscular, imposing structure and power. Notwithstanding, everything is in striking balance and delivered with remarkable precision and grit. Drink from 2026.

Wine Advocate (94+)

The classic 2016 Barolo by Domenico Clerico is a generous and full wine that offers a panoramic view of the Nebbiolo grape all in bright Technicolor and with the appropriate intensity. The wine's all-encompassing approach brings many details into focus, including wild cherry, spice, leather and ferrous soil. Fruit is exclusively from Monforte d'Alba, with some from the lower parts of Pajana and Per Cristina and some from the younger vines planted in Ciabot Mentin. This is an elegant expression with the mild oak signature that is an important part of the Clerico playlist. Camphor ash and burnt embers lift lightly as the wine opens in the glass. It ages in barrique for eight months, followed by another year in larger oak casks. Some 20,000 bottles were released.

Vinous (90)

The 2015 Duemani (Cabernet Franc) is a powerful, sumptuous wine endowed with considerable depth. Dried herbs, leather, cedar, smoke and tobacco give the Duemani its distinctive aromatic signatures. Even though the 2015 is quite powerful, the presence of slightly forward aromas leads me to believe it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Wine Advocate (97)

Here's a new discovery that I'd like to broadcast far and near. This Riserva is a new wine from Elena Fucci that was initiated with this vintage. It is a limited-edition wine made only in magnums. In fact, I tasted bottle number 1 of 400 made to write this review. The 2013 Aglianico del Vulture Superiore Riserva Titolo is a dark and savory expression with an evolved and profound bouquet that covers all the bases. It offers dried fruit and blackberry with smoke, ash and crushed river stone. That mineral identity is the wine's most important defining characteristic. Aglianico tends to deliver astringent tannins, but this Riserva shows excellent integration and structural management. A new benchmark wine for southern Italy has just been created.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

The 2017 Barolo Arborina is introspective on opening, before beginning to unfurl and release a bouquet of cassis, espresso, brushed leather, and violets. The palate is full without weight and is inviting with ripe black cherry, cocoa powder, and cedar. The tannins are fine and polished, with an undeniable luxurious quality and refinement. Hold 3-5 years and drink 2025-2050.

Wine Advocate (93)

The Barbera grape can often act like Nebbiolo showing its best results in the later vintages that end on a cool note. Those conditions are what define the beautiful 2016 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina. The wine sees 20 days of maceration with submerged cap, and the bouquet is flowing, polished and impactful as a result. Blackberry, summer cherry and plum rise from the glass. Some 18 months of oak aging adds delicate touches of spice, leather and cedar.

Wine Advocate (93)

The Barbera grape can often act like Nebbiolo showing its best results in the later vintages that end on a cool note. Those conditions are what define the beautiful 2016 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina. The wine sees 20 days of maceration with submerged cap, and the bouquet is flowing, polished and impactful as a result. Blackberry, summer cherry and plum rise from the glass. Some 18 months of oak aging adds delicate touches of spice, leather and cedar.

Wine Advocate (92+)

This is a new wine that was only made in this vintage to address low yields and difficult growing conditions. In truth, it was also produced in 2002 for the same reasons. The 2014 Barolo is a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from the Grasso family's best vineyard sites: Casa Maté and Gavarini Chiniera. In a very happy and nostalgic way, this wine brings us back in time to when Barolo was more streamlined and linear in style. The limestone-rich soils of Gavarini Chiniera give the wine its aromatic profile with delicate tones of wild berry and blue flower. The Casa Maté site provides the robust texture and structure you taste here. This wine was designed to be offered at a lower price point (that's great news for us!). It offers an accessible personality that makes it easy to enjoy at your favorite Italian restaurant. I put the plus sign next to my score to underline the value you get here.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is an amazing wine born 430 meters above sea level from white limestone and sandy soils. The elegance expressed by the wine is unforgettable. It opens to a pretty garnet color with ethereal tones of licorice and balsam herb with sharp, delineated contours. This vineyard is usually harvested later than the others, so the growing cycle is extra long and steady. The wine is silky, finessed and profound. Drink: 2018-2040.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2010 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is an amazing wine born 430 meters above sea level from white limestone and sandy soils. The elegance expressed by the wine is unforgettable. It opens to a pretty garnet color with ethereal tones of licorice and balsam herb with sharp, delineated contours. This vineyard is usually harvested later than the others, so the growing cycle is extra long and steady. The wine is silky, finessed and profound. Drink: 2018-2040.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2012 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is one of the most beautiful, precise wines of the vintage. Finely cut and chiseled, the Gavarini exudes energy and tension, both signatures of this high-altitude, Monforte site. Crushed flowers, dark red berries, mint and crushed rocks are some of the signatures. So many 2012s are open-knit, but Grasso's Gavarini is going to need at least several years in barrel. If anything, the 2012 is a bit austere, but I say that in the best sense of the word. Exotic, alluring and totally stunning, the 2012 is a real knock-out.

Vinous (96)

The 2013 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is much showier than the Ginestra Casa Matè. An ample, resonant Barolo, the Gavarini Chiniera exudes richness from the get-go. Macerated cherry, kirsch, wild flowers and mint are some of the many notes that are laced together. Ripe, silky tannins add to the wine's considerable raciness. I am somewhat surprised by how well this gorgeous wine is showing today.

James Suckling (98)

Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink in 2024.

James Suckling (98)

Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink in 2024.

Vinous (96.5)

The 2016 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is a vibrant, massively tannic, austere wine, the likes of which I have never tasted here before. Vertical and explosive in the glass with tons of pure power, the 2016 Gavarini Chiniera is a gorgeous Barolo that is going to need a number of years to be at its best. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of sweet red cherry fruit. White pepper, mint, orange peel and floral notes develop a bit later, but the 2016 remains reticent and inward, with brilliant acids and tannins that dominate today. The 2016 is a striking wine, but it is going to require considerable patience.

Vinous (96)

Grasso's 2017 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is fabulous. In fact, the Gavarini is easily one of the wines of the vintage because it retains all of its classic signatures, which is also the sign of a first-class vineyard. Bright and vibrant in the glass, the Gavarini pulses with energy. Crushed red flowers, mint, chalk, white pepper, cinnamon and orange peel give the 2017 a super-classic Nebbiolo profile, as expressed in a relatively high-altitude site. The precision and finesse of the tannins - so hard to find in 2017- elevates the Gavarini into the realm of the sublime.

Vinous (96)

The 2019 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is classically austere and just gorgeous right out of the gate. Soaring aromatics and fine, sculpted fruit race out of the glass. Crushed rose petal, cinnamon, orange peel and mint are all beautifully delineated. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2019 is going to need years to be at its best, yet it has that embryonic inner sweetness that characterizes the very finest wines here. Superb.

Vinous (97)

Dark red cherries, plums, smoke, tar, menthol and licorice all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè. Today the 2010 is painfully young and less expressive than the Gavarini, but equally promising. A generous, resonant wine, the 2010 blossoms in all directions with seemingly endless layers of dark, balsamic-inflected fruit. Today, the Casa Matè is closed and shut down, but it has all the qualities to develop into a spectacular Barolo. The future is bright, especially for readers who can be patient.