Tim Atkin MW (97)

Tondonia's reds have been on an upward curve recently and are now at the same level as the bodega's world-class whites. This is a fine, elegant, savoury, low-alcohol blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Mazuelo and Graciano, combining summer berry fruit, racy acidity, granular tannins and an earthy, balsamic undertone. Good now, but this will develop further in bottle.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

Serious and concentrated, at least by the standards of some López de Heredia reds, this reflects the heat of the 2009 vintage. Tempranillo-based with 30% Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, it’s spicy, savoury and high toned with grippy tannins, layers of tobacco and red fruits and classic, supporting acidity. 2021-30

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2010 Viña Tondonia Reserva has all I expect from a Reserva from Tondonia, complexity, elegance and evolution, a developed nose with notes of forest floor and wild berries, herbs and flowers, a touch of iodine, brick dust and very fine, polished tannins. It has the seriousness and elegance of Tondonia. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho (they use the masculine form of the name of the grape) and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that fermented in the ancient oak vats from when the winery was created 144 years ago and matured in well-seasoned, American oak barrels for six years. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity. 260,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2017.

James Suckling (95)

A traditional beauty that effuses iron, warm earth and savory tobacco leaves, together with plums, spices and orange zest. This is juicy and still tight, with firm but savory tannins. Medium-weight and quite zesty in texture, as is the case with the other López de Heredia reds tasted this session. Drink now or hold.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2020 Paixar is the one wine from the portfolio that is completely different from the others and comes from high-altitude vineyards in the zone of Dragonte on slate soils. In 2020 and 2021 they used the whole field blend—reds and around 5% white grapes, which might have given it an extra spark of acidity. It matured in 5,000-liter oak vat and 500-liter oak barrels. It has a perfumed nose, elegant and floral, with good ripeness but without excess. It's finely textured with a chalky thread and great balance. It finishes long and dry. This is truly superb and should evolve nicely in bottle. It's now Vino de Paraje 'A Serra' in Dragonte, a parish of Corullón. 8,000 bottles were filled in November 2021.

Wine Advocate (97)

The vino de paraje from A Serra in Dragonte 2021 Paixar is as good as ever, with the austerity of the slate slopes and the old vines that deliver low yields of concentrated and characterful grapes. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and a very fresh sensation on the palate beyond analysis. The vineyards are in the process to obtain organic certification. 6,500 bottles produced. This is one of the most elegant vintages for this wine.

Wine Advocate (97)

No 2017 was produced, so after the 2016 I tasted a while ago, we jump to the 2018 La Dama, vinified by Enrique Basarte and Elisa Úcar and blended and bottled by Raúl Pérez, the new owner of the project. They always look for a more delicate expression of Garnacha from selected stonier plots of old head-pruned and dry-farmed vines in the village of San Martín de Unx that are worked organically and biodynamically but are not certified. The wine is stunning, elegant and aromatic, with depth, complexity and grip. It's incredibly young and expressive and doesn't show its age at all; it has a refined nose and is quite fruit-driven and floral, with very integrated oak (like never before), supple flavors and very fine tannins. It has good ripeness and contained alcohol (13.8%) and good freshness and acidity (with a pH of 3.46 and 6.3 grams of tartaric). 10,000 bottles were filled in October 2022.

Decanter (98)

A new-wave Sherry by winemakers Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Perez makes its debut on the Place de Bordeaux this September. 100% Palomino Fino grapes come from the 3.35-hectare San Cayetano vineyard in Macharnudo, planted in 1988. Beautifully fragranced nose, really perfumed and floral, scented with wildflowers. The wine sees one year of flor ageing but it's distinctly dry and round on the palate. There's a thickness to the texture, like thick honey but with salted, softly spiced edges and a core of bright lemon, peach and pear that gives tang, energy and excitement to the expression. Poised and refined, this has a lovely ease about it, beautifully textured and fully flavoured with mouthwatering acidity and bursts of bright citrus zest that counter the saltiness - close your eyes and you could be by the beach! Interesting and captivating, long and lingering, crying out to be eaten with nuts. lovely sea salt spray, close your eyes and you're at the beach! limestone. Small production of only 6,000 bottles.

Vinous (91)

Opaque ruby. Oak-spice-accented red and blue fruits, vanilla, roasted coffee and a hint of smokiness on the perfumed nose. Supple and expansive in the mouth, offering concentrated black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors that turn sweeter with air. The vanilla and cherry notes linger on the sweet, persistent finish, which is shaped by supple, harmonious tannins. Definitely showing its oak right now, but there's plenty of fruit to back it up.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

Fresh, serious, stylish and well balanced, this is a delightful 2015, with no sign of the heat of the vintage.

Wine Enthusiast (99)

Dark-garnet to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of black currant, bittersweet chocolate and almond blossom. It alights on the palate with flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, violet and citrus zest. Energetic tannins power their way into a cherry-pie finish. Made with vines more than 30 years old, this wine is unfiltered; decant before serving and strain if necessary. Drink through 2045.

Wine Advocate (96)

I love the 2015 Clos Martinet, which I find complex and elegant while keeping the Priorat rustic character found in the best vintages, like 2000. It's balanced, and the palate feels ethereal for the concentration it has. The tannins are abundant but very fine-grained, and there is a sense of harmony that is captivating. A great Clos Martinet. I had the chance to drink the 2000 a few days before I tasted this, and it remains one of the best years they have produced. 2015 is also among the best years. The favorites for Sara Pérez are 2009, 2013, 2015 and 2017. 12,000 bottles were filled in April 2017.

Wine Advocate (96)

The flagship 2018 Clos Martinet is the wine that started it all and is still a blend of Garnacha (Tinta and Peluda), Syrah, Cariñena, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell as it was since the beginning but now with a restrained 13.5% alcohol and higher acidity. Clos Martinet is a single five-hectare terraced vineyard planted with clonal material in 1986 on decomposed llicorella slate, iron and big rocks in the soil. The varieties are co-fermented depending on the date picked—at three different ripening times—in two concrete vats and 200-liter oak vats with indigenous yeast and whole clusters. The beginning and end of the élevage was in concrete, and in between they used 2,000- and 4,100-liter oak vats and some 20% in glass demijohn and amphorae. The wine is subtle and a bit shy, insinuating rather than in your face. There is a lot less ripeness than in the past. It's medium-bodied and fluid, fresh and balanced. This is a very elegant Clos Martinet. 11,070 bottles and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in June 2020.

Vinous (95)

Inky ruby. A deeply perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, Moroccan spices and floral pastilles, along with suggestions of cola, licorice and smoky minerals. Shows a suave blend of depth and energy to the sharply focused black raspberry, cherry vanilla, star anise and candied violet flavors, which deepen and become sweeter with aeration. Well-knit tannins add grip to a penetrating finish that leaves behind notes of dark berry preserves and spicecake.

Decanter World Wine Awards 2023 (97)

Our Best in Show journey across Northern Spain continues with a 2020 Bierzo, grown just across the provincial border from Galicia into Castilla y Léon. It’s another zone of steep slopes and old vines – the variety in this case being Mencia (known as Jaen in Portugal’s Dão region). This wine is deep black-red in colour and vivacious and urgent in aroma: wild plums mingled with the woodland scents of leaf, copse and forest floor. The palate is fruit-packed and vibrant, vigorous with an energy derived both from ripe acidity and fresh though smooth tannins; look out, too, for a stony, bitter-edged finish perhaps derived from the region’s slate soils. Wonderful drinking now in the flush of youth, but fruit of this quality will hold well for a few years yet.

James Suckling (97)

Really beautiful aromas of crushed blackberry, brambleberry, hazelnut, walnut and light coffee, following through to a full yet so reserved and polished body with fine, creamy-textured tannins. Fresh and exquisite finish. This is a much more refined and harmonic rendition of their classic wine. Three years in French oak from their own production. Very enjoyable now, but this will improve with age for a long time.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

This dark-ruby wine offers a bouquet of ripe cherry and baking spices. Notes of clove and nutmeg transition to the palate alongside flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, eucalyptus and violet. Luxurious tannins amble toward a lengthy finish. Drink through 2045.

Wine Advocate (94)

The 2019 Reserva, sold as Crianza in Spain, comes from a dry and warm year with low yields and concentrated wines. The grapes from the Haro zone, the four from Rioja, Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo and Graciano fermented destemmed and lightly crushed in oak vats with indigenous yeasts, and 80% of the volume matured in French oak and the rest in Centro European and American oak, 20% of them new, for 22 months, during which time the wine was racked every eight to nine months. This is serious and young but balanced, nuanced and complex. They are shortening the time in oak, as they feel they have better and younger barrels and think the wines need less time in oak and more time in bottle. This is very Muga, very Rioja and very good. They produced an impressive 960,000 bottles and 18,000 magnums of this. There is only one master blend that is bottled at different times. I tasted a bottle that was filled in April 2022 (because of the lack of availability of bottles!).

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Even better than the magical 2015, the 2016 Torre Muga offers a thrilling bouquet of cassis and assorted pure dark fruits, lead pencil, graphite, white flowers, and spice-laced aromas and flavors. While this cuvée is always thought of as the most modern in the lineup, it's far from it and has integrated oak, flawless balance, sweet tannins, and a gorgeous finish. It's beautifully done and just a thrilling bottle of Rioja that's going to evolve for 20-30 years or more.

Wine Advocate (95)

I was looking forward to the 2018 Mas de Mancuso Garnacha, from one of the finest vintages in the region in recent times. It comes from a vineyard in the village of Almonacid, an old plot at 670 meters in altitude surrounded by forest. It's a mountain vineyard protected by the warm winds, a cool place with stone, clay and marl soils. This 2018 is perfumed and floral, expressive, open and quite different from the 2017, balanced and with very good depth. It fermented with 50% full clusters that were foot trodden and matured in used 500-liter oak barrels and later in concrete. It's medium-bodied and elegant, with great finesse, a lot more refined and elegant than the previous vintage. It has tension, light and energy. 3,500 bottles were filled in March 2021.

Wine Advocate (95+)

A 60/40 blend of Garnacha and Cariñena from the vineyard that names the wine, the 2016 Planetes de Nin saw a similar vinification and aging as the 2017 I tasted next to it, so the differences found were only due to the vintage and the moment of harvest. This is a fresher vintage, with tantalizing aromas that are subtle and elegant, with notes of violets and red cherries, nuanced and ever-changing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and nicely textured, with very fine tannins and fine chalky minerality. 9,108 bottles were filled in April 2017.

Decanter (95)

Grupo Bodegas Olarra was founded in 1973 and is now a large organisation producing wines under three different bodega names in Rioja and beyond. The Laztana 2011 is a blend of about 80% Tempranillo with 10% Garnacha and the remainder Graciano and Mazuelo, from vines aged on average for more than 30 years. Fermentation in stainless steel was followed by malolactic fermentation and nearly three months on lees in new 225-litre Allier oak barrels, then six further months in new oak before cask-ageing up to 27 months in total in a mix of new to five-year-old Allier and US barrels. The wine was subsequently cellared for 40 further months in bottle prior to its first release. Sarah Jane Evans MW - Truffly, balsamic, cherry aromas. Full-bodied and fleshy in the mouth, a really youthful wine, packed with energy. Notes of oranges, blackberries and redcurrants abound, then following through with a firm structure of tannin. Christine Parkinson - Spicy aromas of turmeric, cumin, strawberry and dark chocolate, which all carry through to the palate. Creamy layers of tannin are very appealing, and the strong core of acidity makes this a great wine for food. Very long, confident, concentrated finish. Beth Willard - Attractive nose of rose petal, peach and red cherry. Very ripe, jammy fruit, strawberry, with a touch of white pepper on the finish and fresh acidity. A more fruit-forward style of wine, with well balanced oak Drinking Window 2021 - 2033

Hailing from the revered vineyards of Basque Country, the Oxer Kuusu 2021 promises an exquisite voyage of the senses. This small-batch, artisanal wine is a brainchild of Oxer Bastegieta, a masterful producer dedicated to organic and biodynamic methods.

The Oxer Kuusu 2021 illustrates an enchanting mélange of intricate notes hinting at ripe berries, slate minerals, and soft undertones of vanilla. Astoundingly, this sensory palate is achieved entirely from hand-harvested, indigenous grape varieties, subjected to meticulous, traditional winemaking processes.

The wine is carefully matured in French oak barrels, fostering an opulent, yet balanced bouquet. Such exacting attention to detail lends Oxer Kuusu 2021 its distinct character, well-regarded among fine wine enthusiasts.

A bottle of Oxer Kuusu 2021 is not simply a wine; it's a testament to the grandeur of Basque viticulture and a true embodiment of its historic terroir. It is, undoubtedly, the beacon of artisanal winemaking.

Indulge in the sumptuous experience of Oxer Marko 2021, exclusively crafted at the esteemed basque winery of Oxer Bastegieta. Located in Artadi, Spain, this boutique winery has produced a remarkable vintage, utilising age-old traditions complemented by innovative techniques. Exquisitely grown on calcium-rich clay and limestone soils, the hand-picked Hondarribi Zuri grapes are meticulously vinified via indigenous fermentation, yielding a wine that is resplendent with complexity and refinement.

The hearty essence of the Oxer Marko 2021 manifests impressive freshness, tangibility on the palate, with distinct notes of green apple, citrus, and blooming white flowers. This bottle encapsulates the essence of its terroir, reflecting the geographic singularity of its birthplace. Recommended for discerning connoisseurs, this captivating blend marvelously exemplifies Bastegieta's dedication to superior viticulture and relentless pursuit of perfection. The Oxer Marko 2021 is an unparalleled ode to Spanish wine-making majesty.

Thoughtfully crafted in the heart of the Basque Country, Oxer Marko Gure Arbasoak 2022 exhibits an exquisite bond between tradition and modern winemaking techniques. Produced by the renowned Oxer Bastegieta, a devoted biodynamic practitioner, it is predominant with autochthonous varietals, lending it an authentic regional character. This wine reflects Bastegieta's strategy to achieve the ultimate expression of the terroir, with sustainable viticulture principles enacted meticulously across Marko's 4 hectares estate.

Fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts in French oak barrels, the Oxer Marko Gure Arbasoak 2022 unfurls a complex, yet delicately balanced palette. Expect enticing notes of fresh fruit interwoven with subtle spicy undertones and a lingering mineral finish. Its old vine grapes contribute to the inherent depth and intensity, while the refreshing acidity maintains the wine's elegant structure.

A stellar representation of the Basque artisanal wine scene, the Oxer Marko Gure Arbasoak 2022 can't fail to captivate connoisseurs seeking a unique, hedonistic experience.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Kalamity is Bastegieta's favorite vintage because of the floweriness and the quality of the tannins. There's a lot of precision here. The vines have been detoxed through years of working organically, so the soils have recovered from years of herbicide. 2020 and 2021 were challenging years because of the pandemic, but qualitatively, in Rioja they are excellent years. All wines ferment with indigenous yeasts, and in this case, the wine matured in 600-liter Stockinger oak barrels, which are his favorite for his wines. The wine already starts transmitting freshness from the nose, and the palate is a lot more obvious and makes you salivate. This is super clean, precise like a laser cut, with light and energy, fresher than the majority of Rioja with very fine, silky tannins that give it a beautiful texture with dry, chalky minerality. This is perfumed, elegant, nuanced, layered and beautifully balanced. This is still very young, clean and modern, with stuffing and balance to develop in bottle for a long time. 2,500 bottles produced.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

100% Malvasía de Sitges. Organic viticulture. Hand-harvested. Gentle pressing. Fermented in stainless-steel vats and aged on its lees for 9 months with bâtonnage twice a month. Neither fined nor filtered. Tasted blind. Fabulous! It is a saline, linear wine with a lot of energy, depth and very serious too. Elegance, strength, minerality and a clear sensation of wet stones. Very long and precise. Umami sensation on the back palate. I am impressed with this wine. World class. (FC) 12.5%

Pazo Senorans Rias Baixas Albarino Seleccion Anada 2012 is the latest released vintage of the wonderful white, and we can rest assured that it is a wine of immense personality. Awarded 98 points from the Peñin Guide, the leading wine magazine in Spain, this sings with fascinating notes of “white fruit, citrus fruit, fine lees, petrol”. It possesses a richly flavourful and elegant palate ending with a lengthy finish.

Wine Advocate (95)

Jorge Monzón considers 2020 to be an almost prefect vintage—cool and fresh, reminiscent of the great 2016. The pink 2020 Pícaro del Águila Clarete was produced with 35% Tempranillo, 35% Albillo Mayor and the rest other local grape varieties (Garnacha, Bobal, Bruñal, Monastrell, Tempranillo Gris, other Albillos, Garnacha Blanca, Pirules, Jaén, Moscatel, Malvasías...) found in the old vineyards. This is very different from your average rosé, more like a serious light red or powerful white that slowly fermented during 11 months and matured in barrel for 18 months. The orange-ish/pink wine is still young and lively, with some notes of toasted sesame seeds and a faint flinty reduction a little à la Coche-Dury, reminiscent of some vintages of their superb white. This was bottled without being racked, and perhaps that's why it has this nice reduction and could be the finest vintage to date. It has a strong chalky aftertaste from the limestone-rich soils, which makes it a terroir white, but it's also very marked by the style (which they updated from the traditional wines in Aranda in the old times) of a unique wine. It's balanced and mellow but not a shy wine, with 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.26. I've tasted 15+-year-old bottles of wines of this style, and they were still lively, so this one should not be shorter lived. Unique. Given my experience with past vintages, I'd wait a little before pulling the cork here. 8,358 bottles and 151 magnums produced. It was bottled in February 2022.

Wine Advocate (93+)

The youngest of the released wines I tasted is a red—the 2016 Pícaro del Águila Tinto. It is from what they consider to be one of the best and freshest vintages in recent times. This is produced with the vines from the warmer parts of La Aguilera, a cold place to start with (and in a cooler year). The old vines are planted with a mix that is dominated by Tempranillo but also contains some 5% other grapes. All the grapes are picked and fermented together with full clusters and natural yeasts in concrete and stainless steel vats. It matured in oak barrels for 13 months. This is fragrant, expressive, open, aromatic and really attractive. The palate is really balanced, with great freshness, fine tannins and a very pleasant mouthfeel—supple, balanced and with great depth. This is the best version of this bottling so far, and it seems like 2016 could be a great overall vintage, based on some other wines I sampled from cask (many of them have an extended élevage). 21,550 bottles and 624 magnums were filled unfiltered and unfined in November 2017.