Vinous (98+)

The 2004 Clos du Mesnil captures all the pedigree of this epic Blanc des Blancs vintage. A soaring, majestic Champagne, the 2004 dazzles from the very first taste with its crystalline purity and brightness. In two tastings so far, the 2004 has been nothing less than a total showstopper. The vertical structure and pure, tightly-coiled power are the stuff dreams are made of. There is little doubt the 2004 is one of the very finest Clos du Mesnils in recent memory. Will it join the 1979, 1988 and 1996 as one of the all-time greats? Now, that is a tasting I would love to do!

Decanter (99)

The first aromatic impression is surprisingly floral in the context of such a hot vintage, and then evolves to reveal elements of menthol, liquorice and yellow fruit. With aeration, the bouquet blossoms to reveal increasing complexity, including spicy notes. On the palate, this is a fleshy and densely textured Clos du Mesnil with a salty tang on the finish, one that stands out for its singularity, albeit in the context of a classic crystalline, tense purity. Bravo – a work of art! 100% Chardonnay, disgorged at the end of 2019. Dosage: 4g/l.

Vinous (97)

The 1988 Collection offers stunning interplay of vintage 1988 vibrancy with the complexity that has developed in bottle. Apricot, pastry, brioche, dried flowers, chamomile and lightly honeyed notes all infuse the 1988 with notable complexity and nuance. At 31 years of age, the 1988 Collection remains taut, classically austere and full of energy. It will drink well for another 20 years or more.

Wine Advocate (96+)

Compared to Krug's 160th edition, the bright golden-yellow colored NV Grande Cuvée 166ème Édition (ID117010) is still a baby that shows the chalky and fruity features of a young white Burgundy intermixed with notes of Schwarzwälder Kirsch (dark cherries with black chocolate) and floral (ammonia) flavors on the pure, fresh and elegant yet intense and still yeasty brioche nose with its ripe apple aromas and refreshingly bright (lemon juice) overtones. Round, wide and very elegant yet also straight and tense on the palate, this 2010-dominated cuvée is very delicate, fresh and chalky but also dense and lush in its vinous texture. The finish is well-structured, fresh and persistent, indicating great complexity and vibrancy. However, I would wait at least another three years, during which time the 166th edition will gain even more finesse and quiet. The 166ème Édition is composed of 140 wines from 13 different harvests between 1998 and 2010, and it's a blend of 45% Pinot Noir with 39% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Meunier, the latter of which provides the vivacity that the Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs surprisingly didn't have in 2010, a vintage that was marked by its "tumultuous climate," as Eric Lebel writes.

Jancis Robinson (19)

A blend of 198 wines from 11 different years, with the youngest the acclaimed 2012, back to a precious, powerfully aromatic lot of Verzenay Pinot Noir 1996. The final blend – 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier – was bottled in 2013 and aged for seven years in Krug’s cellars in Reims. Yields in 2012 were 20% lower than usual because of a succession of meteorological events including frost, rain, storms and hail in winter and spring 2012, followed by the driest ripening season since 1974. Notably intense aroma with crème pâtissière dominant. Masses of extract and remarkable acidity underpinned by great depth of flavour and beautiful balance on the finish. I think this is going to be a really great, glamorous Krug Grande Cuvée that will continue to develop in bottle for many years to come. I suspect it will be even more enjoyable from the end of 2020. The length on the palate is remarkable. This is magnificently precise, a great tribute to the work of the old cellarmaster Eric Lebel, who is still in the background, and a wonderful welcome to his successor Julie Cavil, who has been learning from him since 2006.

Decanter (97)

With cinnamon, orange, nutmeg characters, this is full-bodied but still fresh, with a real depth on the palate. It finishes dry and savoury, with dry spices, rose and a touch of meatiness. There’s some tannin on the tongue on the finish, too. A deeply complex rosé that could only be from Tavel. 24 months in foudres, then 24 months in bottle before release. Gently cloudy, and taking on a slightly orange note to the colour - showing some age.

James Suckling (95-96)

A serious and saline red with blue fruit, cloves, iodine and black licorice. Oyster shells, too. Medium to full bodied with fine, firm tannins that run the length of the wine. Focused. 79% merlot and 21% cabernet franc.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Pure is the standard 100% Grenache, from a single parcel of old vines located at the intersection of the Grand Pierre, Rayas, and Pointu lieux-dits, that was brought up all in a single foudre. Coming from sandy, cooler soils, it offers a surprisingly dark purple hue to go with a stunning nose of black cherry liqueur, wild strawberries, roasted herbs, licorice, graphite, and chalky minerality. Straight-up stunning, with full-bodied richness and a voluptuous, seamless texture carrying awesome tannins and a monster of a finish, this stunning Grenache brings classic power and richness with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It reminds me of the 2005 and is a sensational Châteauneuf du Pape that will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for two decades. Hats off (again) to the genius of the young Julien Barrot!

Wine Spectator (97)

Not shy, this pumps lush, dark plum, cassis and fig fruit forward, backed by contrasting waves of grippy tobacco and licorice snap. Dense and muscular until the finish, when a well-buried chalky minerality begins to emerge, adding refinement and cut. A big style, built for the cellar. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2022 through 2042. — JM

Vinous (91+)

From granite and quartz soils, the 2020 Fleurie La Clos Vernay has a perfumed rose petal scented bouquet with ample red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, quite tensile and steely, broody on the finish. Give this 3-4 years in bottle.

Vinous (90)

The 2020 Fleurie La Joie du Palais comes from a steeper vineyard and is de-stemmed by hand (30% whole bunch). It has an incense scented bouquet, hints of lavender and violet petals. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, quite fleshy in the mouth, more red fruit laced with crushed stone on the finish. Very fine, perhaps a couple of years in bottle required.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

Tasted first at the château in July, then again at a Berry Bros supper in late November, and both time it effortlessly showcased why Lafite is one of the most sought-after estates in the world. Takes its time to open, even at 25 years old, but a bit of patience and you are rewarded with rosebud, tuffle, ash, pencil lead and crushed mint, all gently playing around the cassis, bilberry and blackberry fruits. There is huge concentration here, but everything is in balance, and you rejoice in the tertiary notes that give gentleness and juice to the overall feel. Charles Chevallier estate director at the time, Jacques Boissenot consultant. Harvest began September 24, 58hl/h yield. The first Lafite to be put in an anti-fraud engraved bottle.

Beautiful colour and depth. Black berry and some sloe fruit. Svelte palate and thickly layered texture. Tightly wound but clearly exceptionally crafted. A fine Lafite that lives up to expectations, potentially outperforming its fellow First Growths.

Wine Spectator (98)

Shows the ultraripe, exotic notes characteristic of the vintage, with roasted plum, tobacco and spicy flavors. It's beginning to evolve, but needs until 2000 to really come together.--Latour vertical.

The Latour a Pomerol 1988 is a prime example of viticultural excellence. Crafted in the esteemed Pomerol appellation on the Right Bank of the Bordeaux wine region, it truly embodies the terroir's distinctive character. This Merlot-dominated blend is richly complex and mature, boasting concentrated flavours of perfectly ripened dark fruits, truffle essence, and well-integrated oak.

The producer, Établissements Jean-Pierre Moueix, is renowned for meticulously harnessing the potential of each vineyard parcel during fermentation. Using traditional open-top oak vats, a careful assemblage of the separate lots ensures an ultimate expression of the vine's unique characteristics in the final blend.

The Latour a Pomerol 1988 delivers a formidable ageing potential that adds depth and nuance as the years go by, offering a captivating sipping experience for the discerning wine aficionado. This bottle truly symbolises the distinguished reputation of Pomerol wines.

Wine Spectator (98)

A river of ganache-coated raspberry pâte de fruit flavors courses through this version, flecked liberally with anise notes and underscored by warm earth accents. Shows terrific concentration for the vintage, brimming with energy as the fruit cascades through a sweet, tobacco-accented finish that is ridiculously long. This transcends the general vintage profile, delivering extra depth and drive to the fruit. A tannic spine matches the fresh acidity.

Trilogie is a secretive project that Château Le Pin has been pursuing for a number of years. Produced in only miniscule amounts, the current edition is a blend of the 2016, 2017 and 2018 Château Le Pin - all excellent vintages, and available at a fraction of the price of a regular Le Pin!

Falstaff (100)

Dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, subtle brightening on rim. Fine oak, a hint of nougat, dark berries underneath, some cardamom, dark cherries, a hint of candied oranges. Powerful, taut, tightly meshed, fresh acidity, spicy, supporting tannins, a hint of chocolate on the finish, convincing balance, mineral and very long lasting, cherries on the finish, a vin de garde, can also be tasted young with a few hours in the carafe, enormous future potential.

Wine Advocate (87)

The 1961 is very good but not in the top class of wines from this vintage. Certainly rich, flavorful, and concentrated with fruit, this wine represents a rather rare phenomenon for Poyferre during a period of mediocrity. Dark ruby, with an attractive cedary, spicy, mature bouquet, on the palate, the 1961 Leoville-Poyferre is deep, supple, ripe, and long, but fully mature. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 3/80.

Decanter (96)

Brilliant wine that continues to impress three years on from the En Primeur tasting, with a creamy but restrained texture, precise black fruits with a spicy undertow. By this point Carmes had the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc on the Left Bank, and had really started to establish its own identity. It was also using a full 40% whole bunch winemaking, choosing only the ripest stems to include in the fermentation tanks, adding a twist of salinity on the finish and ensuring a dip of around 1% in potential alcohol levels at picking (this is a hot site close to the city centre). Owned by Patrice Pichet since 2011, with Guillaume Pouthier joining as director in 2012 - whose experience in the Rhône meant he was not afraid to use stems in winemaking, something traditionally shunned in Bordeaux. This wine shows the success of that approach, giving personality and poise. Needs another few years for the austerity to soften further.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a rock star of a wine and is based on a unique blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 29% Merlot that was brought up in 80% new French oak. Offering a deep ruby/purple color as well as a thrilling bouquet of blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, chocolate, violets, damp earth, and truffle, it hits the palate with a full-bodied yet almost understated, building style that carries ripe, supple tannins, gorgeous amounts of smoky black fruits, and an endearing, layered, multi-dimensional texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. A dead ringer for a great vintage of Haut-Brion, it is far from unapproachable today yet needs 7-8 years of bottle age for the fireworks to develop and will have 50-years or more of longevity! Hats off to Guillaume Pouthier for a magical, seamless, singular beauty!

Discover Liber Pater 2010, a one-of-a-kind expression of Bordeaux's finest grapes. Liber Pater, Latin for 'Free Father', is a nod to the ancient Roman god of wine. Established in 2005 in Graves, a revered sub-region of Bordeaux, this elite winery produces wines that embody the authentic character of ungrafted varietals. The unique 2010 vintage is crafted using age-old vine training and vinification techniques and is produced entirely from pre-phylloxera vines, offering a genuine taste of terroir.

On tasting, the Liber Pater 2010 captivates with a mesmerising bouquet of ripe fruit, exotic spice, and earthy undertones. The palate commands attention with velvety tannins and an intriguing blend of blackberry, licorice and graphite nuances, leading to an unforgettable finish. This experience is encapsulated in the meticulous work of wine visionary, Loic Pasquet. Purchase Liber Pater 2010 and indulge in an unparalleled Bordeaux wine experience.

Decanter (96)

Open and pleasant nose showing pretty floral and ripe red berry fruit along with spicy oak. The palate is elegant and juicy with red apple, beetroot and dried cranberry flavours, crunchy, ripe tannins and a chalky undertone. Very fine, tasty and well handled.

Wine Advocate (92)

There are some 3,500 cases of the 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Célébration (Maison Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and seamless wine evocative of smoky berries, spices and licorice, framed by creamy new oak. More polished and elegant than the muscular 2018, the last rendition of this bottling (which blends more than a dozen of Beaune's premiers crus), it will offer a broad drinking window.

Vinous (94-96)

The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru stays with Domaine Marc Colin as it as owned by Damien's godfather and he wished for it to remain with him, therefore a fermage agreement remains in place. It has a clean and precise bouquet, a little more expressive than some of its peers with crushed stone, sea spray and light citrus peel scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, the oak neatly integrated (one out of two barrels new) with a precise tangy orange rind finish. Sophisticated and compelling. (DIAM closure)

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-97)

2 barrels of one year old wood, chosen from the best of the previous year. Deep full yellow, in comparison to its stable mates, but in fact still light. This is taking time to wake up on the nose. There is a good backing from the oak, a slight youthful bitterness. A very substantial weight. Good acidity too just makes its appearance right at the back. This will need time. Tasted: October 2021

Vinous - Neal Martin (95)

The 2019 Marquis d'Alesme Becker was very impressive from barrel. Now in bottle, it has retained those engaging aromas of blackberry, raspberry, cedar and a pinch of spice, well defined and quintessentially Margaux. The palate is understated on the entry, smooth and sensual in texture, with gorgeous, very pure red fruit. I adore the harmony of this wine, and the way it sashays toward the finish. Deceptively approachable, this will mature beautifully in bottle.