Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

James Suckling (99)

Amazing aromas of sweet uncooked pie crust with almonds. Then you smell dried apples, apricots and pineapple. Grilled fruits, too. Full-bodied. So tangy and energetic with sizzling acidity and creamy tannins. Flavorful and lightly oxidized at the finish. Smacking my lips. Agile. Ginger and spices. A touch of bitter complexity with some salinity. Extreme character that grabs your attention. 13 years and six months aging on the lees with cork. 3 grams dosage. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Don’t serve too cold. Drink or hold.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (97-100)

The 2018 Melbury is fabulous. Bright, punchy and full of character, the Melbury is so alluring in this tasting. Sweet floral notes, crushed red berry fruit, mint, spice and blood orange explode from the glass. Medium in body, silky and arresting in its beauty, the 2018 is spectacularly beautiful. In 2018, Melbury stands out for its understatement and total class. What a wine!

Vinous (99)

The 2018 Pluribus captures all of the savory, mineral intensity of this site on Spring Mountain. Searing tannins, once such a challenge here, are much more finessed than in the past. Crushed rocks, mint, blood orange, gravel, exotic spice and rose petal lend tremendous complexity as the Pluribus shows off its considerable allure. This taut, mountain Cabernet Sauvignon has so much to offer. Today, it is wonderfully complete and thrilling. Even so, the best is yet to come.

Vinous (99)

A regal, soaring wine, the 2018 Vecina is immediately captivating. Red fruit, iron, dried rose petal and exotic spice all soar out of the glass. Over the last two months the Vecina has acquired stunning aromatic presence to play off its deep, layered fruit. The 2018 is an absolute gem in the making. As a reminder, Vecina is sourced from Vine Hill Ranch, at the southern end of Oakville, where the Cabernets are distinguished by a beguiling combination of power and savory/earthy intensity.

Vinous (94)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is just starting to drink well. Fresh and mineral, the 2011 also looks to have plenty of life ahead of it. Chalk, lemon confit and white flowers all grace this open-knit, curvy Charlemagne. The 2011 has really softened in recent years. Time in the glass brings out the layers in this very pretty and expressive Charlemagne from Bonneau du Martray.

Vinous (93)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a reductive nose but there is some fine fruit here, touches of orange pith, honeysuckle and melted candle wax. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a hint of wood to be subsumed on the entry, impressive depth with a slightly toasty finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.

Distinguished by its eloquent expression of the Beaune terroir, the Boris Champy Beaune 1er Cru Aux Coucherias 2021 is a testament to fine French winemaking. Boris Champy, renowned agronomist and oenologist, meticulously harvests from the partially historic limestone-clay vineyards of Coucherias, in the heart of Burgundy's Beaune appellation. The wine displays the unique characteristics of biodynamic viticulture with sustainable vineyard management.

Hand-harvested grapes are vinified naturally, giving rise to a dazzling Pinot Noir unencumbered by excessive oenological intervention. The sublime balance of ripe fruit, integrated tannins and vivacious acidity render the Boris Champy Beaune 1er Cru Aux Coucherias 2021 an epitome of elegance. Its ageing potential, refined by 18 months in oak barrels, suggests a promising evolution. This wine delivers a brilliant representation of the vintage's idiosyncrasies, showcasing Burgundy's signature complexity and depth.

Experience a bottle of Boris Champy Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Le Clous Altitude 377 2019, a true oenophile's delight. This exclusive vintage heralds from a prestigious region - the cradle of Bourgogne wines- and possesses a sophisticated complexity befitting true lovers of world-class wine. Produced by renowned winemaker Boris Champy, a man dedicated to crafting wines which express the idiosyncrasies of their terroir, it is vinified in French oak barrels and aged for an average of 14 months, cultivating its nuanced character and style.

With its spectacular high altitude vineyard origin, this wine delivers a bright ruby colour, indulgent aromas of ripe cherry and wild strawberry, and subtle hints of spice and undergrowth. Its balanced structure and refined tannins culminate in a lasting, elegant finish, making the Boris Champy Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Le Clous Altitude 377 2019 an unforgettable wine-imbibing experience.

Decanter (93)

Bouchard's evocatively named parcel is a monopoly holding that covers 3.9ha on sand and gravel soils in the heart of Beaune Grèves. Picked early but still pretty ripe, this has tobacco pouch and clove aromas from 20% whole bunches, layers of mulberry and raspberry fruit, aromatic 20% new wood and a backdrop of sinewy, granular tannins.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)

This is all on the red soil part of Bonnes Mares, vinified with 100% whole bunches. Pretty lighter brighter colour, some reduction, then whole bunch strawberries. Generous fruit on the palate, quite complex, very stylish and with fine promise. A fine long aftertaste.

Vinous (98)

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, although it is nothing to get too worried about. I think it has exceptional mineralité covered up by its youth. The medium-bodied palate is taut, fresh and quite saline, with a fine bead of acidity and some vanilla-y oak toward the very saline finish, though that will be eaten with bottle age. There is outstanding precision on the aftertaste, and that seems to be accentuated with aeration. I gave this a tepid reaction from barrel, but here in bottle, it received my highest score out of over two hundred 2017s. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Vinous (94+)

The 2015 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia captures all the best the vintage has to offer. Black cherry, plum, espresso, sage, menthol, licorice and leather are all kicked up a few notches in a decidedly dark, strapping Barolo that screams with Serralunga character. Exotic, dark and totally alluring, the 2015 has a very bright future, but readers should be prepared to be patient, as the tannins clearly need time to soften.

Vinous (94)

Lavender, mint, sage, smoke, tobacco and plums are all laced together in the 2011 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca'Mia. As always, the Ca'Mia is a decidedly vertical Barolo built on a spine of persistent tannin, but in 2011 there is a little bit of added polish that serves to soften the contours. Tucked off the main road, Brea remains one of the least well-known vineyards in Serralunga. The 2011 is a great wine to start exploring some of the nuances of this site. A huge finish that brings together power and voluptuousness captures the pure radiance of the year.

Vinous (96)

Firm tannins support a core of bright red fruit, freshly cut flowers and crushed rocks in the 2010 Barolo Garblèt Sue’. Today some of the ferrous notes typical of this site are less obvious, as the fruit is incredibly rich and intense. Over time, though, it is the wine's pure energy that stands out most, another typical Garblèt Sue’ characteristic. This is one of the more polished vintages of the Garblèt Sue’ I can remember tasting. Iron, smoke, dark red fruit and a host of ferrous notes round out the huge, explosive finish.

Vinous (94)

Brovia's flagship 2015 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a decidedly full-bodied wine. The richness of this warm vintage comes through loud and clear in an ample, resonant Barolo endowed with serious textural depth. Lifted floral and spice notes add an attractive upper register as the 2015 starts to open up in the glass. Even so, the Rocche stands out for its volume and sheer size, both of which are unusual for this Castiglione Falletto site, where the wines tend to be more lithe. The Rocche appears to be the Barolo most shaped by the growing season in this range.

Wine Advocate (93+)

Here's an interesting expression from Alex Sanchez and Elena and Cristina Brovia in Castiglione Falletto. The 2014 Barolo Unìo opens to a dark color tonality and an immediately velvety texture. The bouquet is brimming with dark fruit aromas spanning from Morello cherry to bitter currant. Spice, tar, cola and balsam herb fill in the background evenly and with harmony. This is a well-balanced wine from the 2014 vintage that shows impressive integrity across all the senses. Some 24,000 bottles were produced.

The Bruno Clair Marsannay Rouge 2016 is a splendid embodiment of fine French winemaking. Expertly crafted in the heart of Burgundy, this charming Pinot Noir captures the essence of its Marsannay terroir with finesse. Its brilliance stems from Bruno Clair's philosophical winemaking approach, one that emphasizes minimal interference and meticulous attention to detail. An advocate of sustainable viticulture, Clair's respect for the soil affords a robust concentration of flavour.

This wine displays vibrant ruby hues, exuding ripe red fruits, including cherries and currants on the nose. On the palate, it impresses with its elegant tannins, the subtle spiciness of clove blending with its fruit-driven core. The wine's natural acidity and balance make it accessible within its youthful stage, whilst indicating a long life ahead.

The Bruno Clair Marsannay Rouge 2016 is a testament to the producer's profound understanding of the vine and a dedication to the authentic expression of its origin.

Wine Advocate (96)

The newly released 2003 NPU Nec Plus Ultra is only the fifth edition since 1990. The ambitious prestige cuvée from Bruno Paillard is only produced in great vintages (so far 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999 and 2003), and only from grand cru villages grapes; the ratio is always 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first fermentation of the must (only the tête de cuve is used, but that's how it is in all the other BP cuvées) takes place in small oak barrels, where the wine spends ten months. No less than ten years have to pass by until the wine is disgorged as Extra Brut (there is three grams of dosage) and kept in the cellar for another year. This 2003 was disgorged in March 2015. Total production is 4,200 bottles. The wine has an intense yellow-golden color. It is very intense, rich and complex on the beautifully matured nose, where a bouquet of yellow and dried fruit aromas, along with Turkish honey, pistachio, almonds and torrone is displayed. Pure, fresh and mineral on the palate, this 2003 has lots of energy and finesse, is full of tension and develops a very persistent length. A fascinating, atypical 2003 vintage Champagne from that extremely dry and hot year.

Vinous (95)

The 2008 Extra Brut N.P.U. Nec Plus Ultra is a brilliant, taut Champagne. The combination of vintage and the extra brut style favored a Paillard that yields a young Champagne that is quite austere. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 fills out with time in bottle. Today it is piercing in its intensity. Disgorged: April, 2019.

Vinous (95)

The 2012 Barbaresco Riserva Currà is a real knockout. Intense, sweet and beautifully perfumed, the 2012 offers a super-classic expression of this Neive vineyard. Twenty four months in oak have helped soften some of the angular contours the 2012 had when it was younger. Hints of orange peel, white pepper, dried herbs and cherries linger on the exotic, beguiling finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. The 2012 spent 22 months in cask. To be released in 2017.

Decanter (99)

A distinctive bouquet with notes of iodine, flowers, fresh fruit and graphite, but its floral character takes on a dominant role with airing. Gorgeously juicy mouthfeel brimming with energy lengthening a finish that consolidates its profound substance but also reveals surprising subtlety and delicacy. This 2018 is perhaps an atypical Calon Ségur in the context of recent vintages, but it joins the ranks of the great ones and should gain in elegance over time. Cellaring may be required for up to twenty-five years.

Vinous (98)

Lifting up with gorgeous floral perfumes and hints of white smoke, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia from Canalicchio di Sopra keeps you at the edge of your glass. It opens up with a dark and dramatic display of balsamic-tinged black cherry, sage and Indian spice, contrasted by savory notes of tobacco, rich earth tones and flowery undergrowth. There’s an amazing density of fruit here, offset by salty minerals, zesty acids and a hint of sour citrus. The textures are velvety-smooth, yet the expression remains feminine and lifted. In fact, you can hardly notice its underlying tannic heft until it’s too late, as the 2016 La Casaccia seems to youthfully fold in on itself, halting the expression but promising over a decade of further development.

Kerin O'Keefe (98)

The Vigna Casaccia 2018 opens with aromas of underbrush, leather, dark spice and whiffs of violet. More closed than the Brunello Annata, it’s also more structured, showing ripe dark-skinned berry, licorice, tobacco and balsamic notes recalling eucalyptus. Tight, fine-grained tannins provide support while great acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Drink 2026–2040.

Wine Advocate (98+)

Composed of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc and aged for 18 months in 70% new French barriques, the 2016 Canon is medium to deep garnet-purple in color, and—WOW—it opens with the most stunning perfume of violets, red roses and kirsch, giving way to a core of black cherry preserves, chocolate box, licorice, warm plums and Chinese five spice plus an earthy waft of underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely filled with expressive, perfumed black berry layers accented by lively red fruits and exotic spices, supported by impressively fine-grained tannins and fantastic tension, finishing very long with jaw-dropping energy. Tasted three times, I had one opportunity to taste the 2015 and 2016 Canon side by side. While I love the bold, rich, seductive nature of the 2015, this 2016 kicks it up a notch in terms of polish, precision, depth and persistence. Most notably, the superbly ripe, exquisitely fine-grained tannins on this 2016 bring to the table a whole other level of sophistication. Bravo!

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98)

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It is another magnificent effort from Technical Director Nicolas Audebert and his team.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

The 2019 Château Canon-La-Gaffelière is another brilliantly perfumed wine in the vintage that shines for its complexity, finesse, and nuances. Giving up awesome notes of red and black currants, tobacco, exotic flowers, cedarwood, and loamy earth, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, beautifully polished, integrated tannins, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. This is serious juice that warrants at least 4-5 years of bottle age and will evolve for 30 to 40 years.

Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon is based on a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot that spent 22 months in 81% new French oak. It’s a wonderfully complete, borderline perfect wine that shows the class of this estate as well as the vintage, revealing a seamless, full-bodied style that carries lots of blackcurrant, graphite, lead pencil, and tobacco aromatics, a deep, layered mid-palate, ultra-fine tannins, and flawless balance. As with most of Chris’s 2018s, it’s a wine that builds slowly with time in the glass, offering a layered, singular character. It’s a gorgeous 2018 that can be drunk today with ample pleasure, but it will ideally be given 4-6 years of bottle age, at which point it should evolve gracefully for 30-40 years.

James Suckling (96-97)

This is very classically structured with a palate that starts off slowly. Full-bodied and chewy with a soft, creamy texture and a long finish. Savory. A touch austere. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 3% cabernet franc, the rest petit verdot.