Wine Advocate (98)

The single-vineyard Sorte O Soro had not been produced since 2016, and the 2019 Sorte O Soro is the next vintage after that. This plot has always shown additional elegance, freshness and salinity since he started vinifying it in 2004, because of the altitude (710 meters above sea level) and the north exposure to the Bibei Valley, where the old clone is planted on fine granite sand and quartz soils. Like As Sortes, this Sorte also fermented and matured with lees in new 500-liter French oak barrels for eight months. It has 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.12 and higher acidity (at 7.5 grams) than the rest of the 2019s. It feels very harmonious, elegant and nuanced with some creaminess, with notes of wet pollen and yellow flowers. The palate reflects the soil, with vibrant granite and very fine sand and electric quartz (saline), and it's also round and powerful from the clone that is planted in the vineyard. This vineyard is in the process of being organically and biodynamically certified. 2,240 bottles were filled in September 2020. I tasted the 2019s and 2020s from Rafa Palacios in Valdeorras. For him, these are two very good years. 2019 had a mild and dry winter and a rainy and cold spring that delayed budding, followed by a mild summer with fewer hours of sunshine, which meant a delay in the ripening process. Harvest was more than one month later than usual, and the grapes achieved very slow ripening and full development of aromas and flavors while keeping the acidity. The harvest started in October and finished in November. It's a beautiful, homogeneous vintage with very good wines. 2020 saw a moderately cool and rainy winter and a dry and cold spring that resulted in 20% less bunches than in 2019. The summer was also quite dry but, fortunately, not too hot. Given the low yields, maturation was accelerated, and the harvest began at the beginning of September for Louro and from September 25th for As Sortes. Given the scarce water, the plants had to work harder deep down into the soil, which marked the wines; the silica and quartz from the sandy soils of O Bolo shaped a saline identity and the wines achieved a lot of elegance and balance. It's a more heterogeneous vintage, and the higher-altitude vineyards behaved better. The 2020 O Soro is out of this world. He gave me a quick preview of the very cold 2021, a vin de garde vintage but a challenging year with a lot of rain. They are in the process of certifying their vineyards (organic and biodynamic), but they have some problems in the vineyards with neighbors who are not organic, so it will probably be faster for O Soro and Sorte Antiga.

Decanter (98)

Sampled from a vat, this is one of the best As Sortes I have ever tasted, comparable to the iconic 2011. It's a prodigy of subtleness and elegance. Everything is firmly delicate in this wine. Restrained aromas open up parsimoniously, with a steely structure like a great Burgundy, but with flinty acidity almost like Grosses Gewächs from Rheingau. Despite the fact that the sample was not yet bottled, the wine had no oak influence, just the indication that it had been aged, as top Godello must. Rafael Palacios is refining his work year after year, reaching the magic of the greatest wines. A top wine, and one to keep.

Jeb Dunnuck (96-100)

Violets, spring flowers, cassis, plums, and incense notes all define the stunningly good 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Imperiale. Made from 100% Grenache from very old vines, it's full-bodied and powerful, yet also graceful, balanced and pure, with terrific freshness and purity. My money is on this flirting with perfection once bottled.

James Suckling (96)

Deep, spicy and fragrant, this is a very concentrated and elegant Chateauneuf-du-Pape with remarkably fine tannins and floral delicacy alongside its earthy primacy. Mainly produced from grenache vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From Demeter-certified biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

The same blend as the 2016, the 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Prestige is another inky colored wine from this estate that has an elegant, mineral-laced, balanced profile that’s very much in the style of the 2017 vintage. Blackberries, raspberries, crushed rocks, ground pepper, and violet notes all give way to a full-bodied 2017 that has terrific purity, no hard edges, building tannin, and a great finish. It's going to hit the ground running and cruise in good cellars for two decades. It has slightly more freshness and minerality than the Reserve cuvée.

Wine Advocate (94-96)

There's a purity of fruit to this wine that's remarkable, year after year. The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Prestige showcases cherries and blueberries, backed by subtle power and gentle structure. Full-bodied, creamy and lush yet bright, intense and long on the finish, it's a terrific effort.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Unquestionably the deepest, richest wine in the lineup, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret des Sabon offers sensational notes of blackberries, cassis, crushed rocks, graphite, and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, ultra-fine, seamless, and pure, it has more elegance and purity than the 2010 and is reminiscent of the 2001. It's a gorgeous, extraordinary, layered, seamless Châteauneuf-du-Pape to drink over the coming two decades or more.

Wine Advocate (94-97)

As usual, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon is nearly all Grenache, from two old-vine parcels. Raspberries, black cherries and chocolate overtones appear on the nose, while the palate is full-bodied, rich and concentrated. Licorice notes mark the long finish, framed by silky-creamy tannins.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

The best vintage of Le Secret des Sabon since the otherworldly 2001, this is exciting from the moment the wine hits your glass due to its incredible nose packed with flowers, black and red fruits, herbs, peppery spices and thyme. The magic however is on the palate. There is weight, density and, concentration. Even with its wealth of fruit, the wine remains elegant, refined, silky, opulent, balanced, fresh and effortless to drink. The wine is made from seriously old vine Grenache, from mostly old vines that are more than 100 years of age. Clearly, this is in contention for one of the wines of the vintage.

Vinous (94)

Deep ruby. Highly expressive aromas of candied raspberry, boysenberry, licorice pastille and lavender pick up a smoky quality as the wine opens up. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated red and blue fruit flavors complemented by an exotic vanilla flourish. Gains flesh on the clinging finish while maintaining energy; subtle tannins lend framework and grip.

Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)

Deep shimmering magenta. Intensely perfumed, sharply delineated raspberry and boysenberry liqueur aromas are complicated by suggestions of candied flowers and exotic spices, and a subtle touch of earthiness emerges as the wine opens up. Palate-staining red and blue fruit, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors deepen steadily through the midpalate. Blends power and delicacy with a sure hand and finishes extremely long and spicy, with repeating red berry and floral character and fine-grained, harmonious tannins that come in late.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

A perfect wine that's up with the top handful of wines in this incredible vintage, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Collection Charles Giraud (60/40 Grenache and Mourvèdre) boasts a sensational nose of currants, cured meats, kirsch, exotic spices, and sandalwood. Deep, full-bodied and powerful, yet with an incredible sense of elegance and purity, it just glides across the palate and, despite its awesome intensity, it never seems heavy or over the top. Give it 2-3 years, and it will keep for two decades or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Even better (as well as a perfect wine), the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Collection Charles Giraud checks in as a nominal blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre that was brought up in demi-muids. It reveals a deep purple color as well as heavenly notes of blackberry and currant fruits intermixed with loads of cured meats, spice box, Asian spices, and a distinct loamy soil and minerality. Always more structured and powerful than the Reserve Auguste Favier release (no doubt due to the Mourvèdre component), it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, building yet polished tannins, flawless balance, and a great, great finish. Pure perfection in a glass, it’s as good as wine gets. Give bottles 2-4 years and enjoy over the following two decades. Hats off to winemaker Isabelle Ferrando for yet another thrilling wine!

Vinous (96)

Saturated ruby. Highly expressive, mineral-accented cherry and dark berry liqueur, cola, licorice and potpourri scents are complemented by an exotic spice nuance. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry, boysenberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter and more lively as the wine opens up. Shows excellent clarity and floral lift and finishes extremely long and spicy, with steadily building tannins adding closing grip.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Collection Charles Giraud includes a big chunk of Mourvèdre and is 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre that was partially destemmed and brought up in demi-muids. If offers a deep ruby/plum color as well as a rich, savory, complex bouquet of black raspberries, cassis, toasted spice, cured meats, and graphite. The Mourvèdre really shows in this beauty, and it's full-bodied, concentrated, and structured, yet never loses its seamless, flawlessly balanced profile. It's going to need 4-5 years of bottle age but will have 20-25 years of ultimate longevity. It's another thrilling wine from this estate.

Wine Advocate (97)

From the lightest, sandiest soils in the Gras Châteauneuf stable, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Saintes Vierges is a blend of 80% Grenache, 18% Mourvèdre and 2% Cousoise. Befitting its origins, it's the most perfumed of the three wines this year, with floral, rose-like notes, a veritable potpourri of spice and herb shadings and a vibrant core of red berries. It's labeled (like the others) at 14% alcohol but feels lighter on the palate, soaring in silky arches of intermingled red berries and delicate tannins, then lingering elegantly on the finish.

Wine Enthusiast (96)

It's hard to choose a favorite among Santa Duc's 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but Le Pied de Baud stands out for the seduction of its smoky, floral nose. Raspberry and red cherry flavors are pristine and plump, etched by fine strokes of fur, charred earth, violet and tea leaves. An opulent but freshly balanced blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault framed by fine, persistent tannins. Approachable already but should improve further through 2030 and hold further.

Wine Advocate (96)

Marked by aromas of resinous herbs, roses and raspberries, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Pied de Baud is an enthralling blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault from the Le Pied de Baud lieu-dit, in the south of the appellation. Raspberries, strawberries and redcurrants all make appearances, supported by crisp acids and silky, just-ripe tannins. Young Benjamin Gras is looking for tension in his wines, and this wine captures that elusive quality, lingering tautly on the mouthwatering finish.

Wine Advocate (95)

Close in quality to the profound 2007 is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Grandes Grenachieres d-Hippolyte. A stunning expression of old vine Grenache, it boasts abundant notes of raspberries, licorice and kirsch intermixed with hints of forest floor and underbrush. With good acidity, precision and freshness as well as a deep, full-bodied, voluptuously textured mouthfeel, this superb example of old vine Grenache should drink well for 15+ years.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2015 O Diviso felt closed, more reticent, and seems more powerful, despite the fact they did a nonextractive vinification; they did nothing and let the wine ferment at its own pace. This matured in one 600-liter oak barrel, and this is the only red that has a slight note from the oak. There is also a relevant amount of Garnacha Tintorera, so the combination of a warm year, the small barrel and the varietal mix resulted in a more austere and backward wine that is going to require more time in bottle. The fruit is darker and the wine is more powerful than the 2014. It might evolve with time in bottle, because it certainly has the stuffing to do so, but today As Caborcas was singing, and I have to give it the edge. 895 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.

Vinous (96)

Lurid ruby. A highly complex bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, candied lavender, sandalwood and smoky minerals, with Asian spice and vanilla notes in the background. Sappy and alluringly sweet, displaying palate-staining raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors and slow-building florality. Shows impressive power on the sappy, penetrating finish, where the lavender and spice notes come back emphatically.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Always one of the top examples of Grenache in any vintage, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Amiral G. sports a more ruby/subtly purple-tinged color as well as an exotic bouquet of red and black fruits, nori, licorice, wildflowers, and sandalwood-like nuances. There's a touch of background oak, but it's all about exotic, pure fruit. Medium to full-bodied, nicely textured, and seamless, it's another beautiful, brilliant wine from this team.

Decanter (98)

Bright and zesty in aroma, with no overt oaking to detract from the purity of the fruit. Only medium-bodied, with lovely crisp acidity cutting through. The discrete oak comes through on the finish, adding some cashew nuttiness and salinity to the long finish. Well balanced, pure and precise, this is the pinnacle of pure Grenache Blanc. Grown on galets roulés, matured in used barriques. Just 2,600 bottles produced.

Wine Enthusiast (96)

Fragrances of vanilla, smoke and violet amplify bold blackberry and plum in this bombastic red wine. A blend of 64% Grenache, 28% Syrah and 8% Mourvèdre, it's a rich, densely textured wine with a lingering finish marked by Bourbon and coffee notes. Appealing already for its flash, it should gain elegance from 2021 and improve through 2040.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

The smaller production 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Val De Dieu is close to 60% Grenache blended with 30% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre. This is always the most modern styled cuvée from this great estate, and it’s aged in 70% demi-muids and 30% new barrels. Its deep purple color is followed by a gorgeous bouquet of cassis and black raspberry fruits intermixed with notes of new leather, graphite, spice, and peppery garrigue. Its oak is beautifully integrated, it’s full-bodied, has a terrific mid-palate, and a great, great finish. It’s probably not for the staunch traditionalist out there but is just a brilliant Châteauneuf du Pape in the making. It’s going to evolve for 15+ years.

Decanter (99)

Richly aromatic, with deep pear and a touch of yellow melon. Lightly honeyed on the nose, then more noticeably so on the palate, with sweet oak spice melding with the sappy acidity. Powerful in flavour, but with great focus, clarity and freshness; this has huge length, without any excessive body. Good now, will be better in time. Grown on limestone soils, aged in barriques, 50% of which are new. Just 2,700 bottles produced.

Vinous (91-93)

Vivid ruby. Intense red and dark berry aromas are complemented by peppery spice, garrigue and floral pastille notes. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering concentrated, vivacious black raspberry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors. Supple, harmonious tannins build steadily on the very long, seamless finish, which leaves behind lavender and juicy dark berry notes.

James Suckling (96)

A wine with playful, attractive character. An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive. This will live super long. Try after 2020.

James Suckling (98)

Impressive, complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (98)

Impressive, complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink or hold.