On the nose, faint ripples of sweet wood smoke and tart crème fraîche flow gently into bold notes of savoury fennel, celeriac and roasted tea leaves. Plunge further and discover alluring aromas of charcoal and lightly burnt toast. A splash of water releases a gust of fresh sea spray, followed by eucalyptus oil and pine. Finally, this irresistible nose ends with an unmistakable top note of saddle soap and leather. An intensely salty mouthfeel shifts like the tides into soothing medicinal notes, followed by salted peanut brittle, smoked pineapple and lime juice. Waves of aniseed lap over the palate, before rich fudge, birch tar and peat smoke crash down wildly. This is a dram that coaxes you in, and all assumptions are best left behind. Simply let this alluring spirit surprise and delight. Savoury and smoky notes collide in a sharp, intense, yet satisfyingly long finish

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

Bunnahabhain is a truly special distillery and there are few independent bottlers who have managed to secure more impressive casks from this unique Islay distillery than Signatory. Also trust them to exercise such supreme patience as to wait until this reached perfection at 42 years of age! Very few distilleries can hit such an advanced age without falling apart but Bunnahabhain's finely honed spirit is uniquely balanced and perfect for extensive maturation. Matured in a refill sherry butt and bottled at natural cask strength of 47.9% with incredible finesse, dried fruit flavours and an elegant spiciness. 427 bottles filled in 2016.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

The very high quality of ageing vessel gives an elegant interpretation of Caol Ila's classic peat. Medicinal and iodine are the predominant scents that fit well into the whole aromatic structure that supports and accompanies it. Tones of medicinal herbs, vanilla, leather in the background and licorice complete it and make it complex enough to let us fly with imagination. Just 161 bottles filled from a single cask at 45% ABV.

A single cask Islay malt matured in undersized ex-Bourbon barrels previously used to mature Bourbon whiskey at the Koval Distillery, showcasing Caol Ila’s classic oily maritime qualities with aromas of sweet, earthy peat, sea breeze and iodine alongside pungent, warming spices evoking cinnamon, cumin, smoked pepper and cardamom. A finish laced with eucalyptus and dried mint makes for a restrained, finessed Islay with a long, dynamic finish. Bottled at a natural cask strength of 58.1% without colouring or filtration.

The second bottling from the Stewart Whisky Company in their Stiùbhart Single Cask selection, released in March 2021 at 13 years of age in a limited run of just 132 bottles.

Vinous (98)

The 2016 Sancerre Clos La Néore is almost Riesling-like in its firm yet fine personality, its unswerving purity and its clear translation of place. Don't expect a seductive Sancerre, this is dry and steely with an appealing bitterness making for a very grown up white wine. It's starting to show early signs of development in its light almond/lanolin character alongside lemon tea. It offers exceptional concentration while being light bodied and provides a steely core of acidity, keeping the wine together and powering on. If you have any in your cellar, I can make myself available for dinner.

Crafted by esteemed winemaker Edmond Vatan, the Sancerre Clos La Neore 2017 is a fine example of terroir-driven vinification. Produced in the heart of France's Loire valley, it's one of the last remaining single plots of Sancerre, offering unrivalled purity and typicity of the region.

The Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos La Neore 2017 demonstrates an exquisite balance of ripe fruit, minerality, and palate-gripping acidity. Hand-harvested from vines averaging 50-years-old on Kimmeridgian marl soils, this prestigious Sauvignon Blanc ferments naturally in old wooden foudres to enhance its inherent complexity.

With a limited production, the wine reveals a striking, crystal-clear golden hue alongside an aromatic profile of citrus zest, ripe apple, and flinty undertones. It's exceptionally layered, showing vibrant fruit, precise acid, and a lingering finish. Best consumed after carefully decanting, Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos La Neore 2017 is a sought-after vintage deserving of a place in the cellars of discerning neophytes and seasoned collectors alike.

Always one of the most eagerly awaited of the annual Special Releases, this latest edition of the Lagavulin 12 year old cask strength is perhaps one of the best to date. Bottled with even more vigour and classic intensity than the standard distillery bottling of the 16, the 2020 Special Release is quintessential Islay without a doubt. A whisky that offers wave after wave of citrus-and-clove-infused peat with a coastal salinity and nuanced power, this is a genre-defining Lagavulin that will no doubt become a sought-after darling of the collector's market before long, much as its predecessors have.

Wine Advocate (94)

From 20- to 50-year-old vines in a south/southwest-facing vineyard, the 2019 Sancerre Les Romains offers a pure yet intense and iodine-scented bouquet of shells and oysters along with algae aromas. Full-bodied, rich and powerful on the palate, this is an elegant, refined, balanced and refreshingly mineral Les Romains with a long, juicy, pretty aromatic, seriously structured and persistent salty finish with stimulating grip. Impressive, as always. Tasted in February 2021.

Vinous (97)

As always at this early stage in its development, the 2019 Sancerre Chêne Marchand is a little bit reserved, but there's power and intensity within a focused mid-weight core. Expect aromas of spiced pears verging on nectarine, a touch of savory character and the merest whiff of white pepper. This has lots of substance and an almost tannic, structured finish. It is nowhere near ready but it is balanced, harmonious and on its way to a graceful long life. Impressive without being showy – and that's not easy to do. The lengthy finish is like riding a wave that never ends.