Vinous - Neal Martin (97)

The 2015 Climens is notoriously difficult to taste in its youth, the aromatics often shutting down for the first few years and consequently showing poorly in blind tastings. Indeed, this transpires during the blind tasting of 2015 Sauternes so I retrieved another bottle and allowed it 48 hours to open. This is where this note comes from. It has a bashful bouquet compared to its peers with notes of beeswax and honeycomb, just a touch of jasmine developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a lightly spiced opening, notes of stem ginger and rhubarb with a vivacious and quite persistent finish that bodes well for the future. It is a great Climens in the making, but it will need a decade in bottle. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting.

Vinous (94)

The 2016 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a classic, undergrowth infused bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of stewed black tea emerging with time, tobacco and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, succulent and juicy with a fleshy, almost Volnay-like finish that is very appealing. This is a well crafted and comparatively approachable Pommard. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

Vinous - Neal Martin (94)

The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet that fulfills its potential from barrel, offering immediately seductive brambly red fruit, crushed minerals and pressed rose petals. The 25–30% new oak is so neatly folded into the fruit that it is barely noticeable. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite citrus-driven, revealing orange peel and blood orange notes. Linear at first and then gently fans out and gains depth toward the persistent finish. Superb.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Cask sample. Quite a price! Transparent crimson. Very dense nose with more layers than most of the 2018 red burgundies I have tasted so far. Pretty rich with grand cru density. Very well done. Actually the best Clos des Epeneaux I remember tasting en primeur. Long, rich, opulent but all in a convincing structure. Very long in fact.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was bottled in June and July ‘21. Very perfumed and floral scents on the nose, dark cherries, bergamot, damp earth and touches of clove, later hints of violet and blood orange (traits that I observed out of barrel). This is nicely detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a classy espresso-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.

Decanter (96)

The final blend of this is superb, including both the energy of the young vines and the density of the old. They deliver a lush, spicy fruit with a strong mineral underpinning, a dense texture, firm but supple tannins and an infinitely rewarding finish. The Clos des Epeneaux is produced from a monopole of 5.23ha located at the juncture of Grands Epenots (20%) and Petits Epenots (80%). The clos is divided by regisseur Paul Zinetti into four main subdivisions by age of vine and underlying soils which are farmed and vinified separately.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2021 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru, the crown jewel of the Domaine, has an intense nose with black cherries, raspberry coulis, white pepper and bay leaf. Lovely definition with a subtle briny note that emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a firm grip and moderate weight, though it is missing some amplitude towards the finish due to the severely reduced volume. Yet it has plenty of freshness and length, so afford it five to six years in the cellar.

Tim Atkin MW (95)

The de Vogü  Amoureuses vines are the first ones on the right as you arrive from Vougeot. They suffer from virus and now are under a replanting program with the domaine's new winemaker, Jean Lupatelli. (The 2020 wines were made by Fran ois Millet.) Despite the state of the vineyard, there is excellent energy here with the lick of limestone texture countered by smooth tannins and a sweet fruit core. Strawberries, pomegranate seeds and warm earth lead into the strong finish. 2025-38

Vinous (90-92)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Blackberry, cassis and menthol aromas are lifted by a mineral element. Juicy, saline and youthfully tight, even a bit clenched, but with harmonious bright acidity giving verve to the wine's dark berry flavors. Serious building tannins saturate the entire palate on the rather suave, fine-grained finish.

Vinous (89-91)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from four sectors, 50% in the south and 50% in the north of the appellation, and was completely de-stemmed. This shows just a bit of reduction on the nose, although that will be resolved by bottling time. The medium-bodied palate is fresh and sorbet-like, displaying grainy tannin and kirsch and cassis notes toward the joyous finish. Expect a decade of drinking pleasure.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet of dark cherries, raspberry and light tobacco aromas that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is very smooth and harmonious, with lightly spiced red fruit. Gains weight and grip toward the very finely detailed finish, which nudges Premier Cru in quality. Yeah... that good.

Vinous (88-90)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Village, matured in 30% new oak, has a generous bouquet of red berry fruit, plus touches of brown spice and light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and lightly spiced red berry fruit mixed with white pepper and sage, dovetailing into a slightly compact but fresh finish. Fine.

Jancis Robinson (17+)

Full bottle all of 1,405 g. 95% Sémillon, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Muscadelle. Cask sample. 18 months in oak envisaged. No information on yield. Greenish hint to the golden hue. Very classic with a botrytis note and some real freshness. Weight and integrity here with a savoury, even bacon-fat, finish. Not one of the sweetest wines, or what I probably mean is that the acidity is more pronounced than in many of its peers. Sleek and fresh. But probably for relatively early drinking. 13.5% Drink 2024 – 2038

A harmonious symphony of opulence and finesse, the David Duband Chambolle Musigny 2019 is the culmination of meticulous craftsmanship from renowned French winemaker, David Duband. Exquisitely hailing from his estate in the heart of Burgundy's Chambolle-Musigny village, this wine is a testament to sustained tradition and dedicated viticulture. Each grape was handpicked from this famed appellation before undergoing rigorous selection and gentle destemming, a technique employed by only the most discerning of vignerons.

The wine exudes a pristine ruby hue and reveals an exquisite bouquet of wild berries and violets, underpinned with a subtle hint of oak. On the palate, its opulence is eloquently balanced with a fine line of acidity, unveiling a depth of intricate texture and jubilant fruit flavours. The David Duband Chambolle Musigny 2019 offers a testament to the mastery of its eponymous creator, expertly capturing the quintessence of its prestigious terroir.

As an acclaimed French winemaker, David Duband casts a spell with his rendition of the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Sentiers 2020, a quintessentially 'Burgundian' Pinot Noir. This elegant wine hails from Chambolle-Musigny, a highly reputed French appellation where winemaking has rich historic lineage. Meticulous vine management using biodynamic principles and the tinder care the Sentiers vineyard is given result in a wine marked with finesse and structure.

The David Duband Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Sentiers 2020 exhibits vibrant aromas of dark cherry, violet, and damp earth, underpinned by an enchanting minerality. Defined by its refined palate, this wine is a harmonious balance of intense fruit, silky tannins, and a lingering finish. David Duband's talent for harnessing the terroir's unique character is evident in each bottle, promising an extraordinary journey into the heart of Burgundy enjoyment. Due to its limited production, each bottle is a prized possession for any discerning wine enthusiast.

David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin 2019 is an elegant offering from an acclaimed Burgundy producer. Based in the heart of the Côte d'Or, Duband's profound understanding of terroir is evident in this Pinot Noir's remarkable complexity. Harvested from 60-year-old vines, this vintage exudes cherry and blackberry aromas woven with delicate earthy undertones.

Significant to this expression is the philosophy of natural winemaking, with minimal intervention allowing the grapes' true character to shine. As a result, the David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin 2019 boasts excellent vintage typicity. Subtle oak nuances supplement the fruit-forward palate, while stylish tannins underpin the refined structure.

Vinified using indigenous yeasts and aged for 14 months in French oak, this wine exhibits both finesse and balance. Often enjoyed at the peak of its maturity, David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin 2019 will continue to evolve gracefully in the bottle, further enhancing its attractive profile.

Vinous (90)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, which this year contains the measly amount of Les Evocelles harvested, has superb concentration on the nose with black cherries, bilberry and light oyster shell scents, all beautifully-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and is very pure and concentrated, maybe just needing a little more mineralité to come through on the finish. Give this 3-4 years in bottle.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru includes 30% whole bunch and 60% new oak. It has a clean, well-defined bouquet with sous-bois and black truffle aromas permeating the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and charming, leading to an elegant, refined, caressing finish. Delicious and probably one of Mortet’s earlier-drinking cuvées.

Vinous (93-95)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed and raised in 70% new oak. It has a very well-defined bouquet of raspberry and wild strawberry scents, plus pressed rose petal and a touch of orange pith. The palate is very well defined with supple tannins, a perfect line of acidity and a slight confit-like finish. Understated and refined, this will give two decades of drinking pleasure.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Jorge Monzón and Isabel Rodero's Albillo Mayor is one of Spain's greatest whites. Think of it as a cross between a Jura Vin Jaune and a Viña Tondonia Blanco from Rioja in style. Nutty, salty yet produced without a veil of flor yeast, it's a subtly wooded delight, showing old vine concentration and the leesy, waxy, oxidative complexity that comes from a two-year fermentation without added sulphur.

Tim Atkin MW (98)

One of Spain's greatest white wines, produced outside the Ribera del Duero Denominación de Origen for the time being, this is a field blend of Albillo Mayor with 5% of other varieties. Salty, stony and appealingly reductive, with some lovely struck match top notes, it has the concentration of its 100-year-old vines, bread, almond and citrus peel flavours and a chiselled finish. World class.

Wine Advocate (98)

The scarcest and rarest of the reds is the single-vineyard 2015 Canta la Perdiz, produced with the field-blend grapes of one of the oldest vineyards in the village of La Aguilera, a plot at 890 meters in altitude that has sandy and limestone-rich soils that give the wine a specific texture reminiscent of chalk. It's planted with a field blend dominated by Tempranillo but with small percentages of many other grapes, and the aim is to be able to ferment them all together. The ripeness of 2015 allowed for all the different varieties to achieve good ripeness, and they were all included in the wine, which fermented with full clusters and indigenous yeasts. It was foot trodden, and the malolactic and slow and long aging was in French oak barrels and lasted 31 months. It's a wine of perfume and finesse, gentle and tender, attractive and showy, developing nice complexity in the glass, with a more Mediterranean profile, some fennel and aromatic herbs. It has a velvety texture with very fine tannins. It also has very good freshness and balance, and it finishes long and dry. 1,220 bottles and 24 magnums were filled in May 2018.

Wine Advocate (98)

The scarcest and rarest of the reds is the single-vineyard 2015 Canta la Perdiz, produced with the field-blend grapes of one of the oldest vineyards in the village of La Aguilera, a plot at 890 meters in altitude that has sandy and limestone-rich soils that give the wine a specific texture reminiscent of chalk. It's planted with a field blend dominated by Tempranillo but with small percentages of many other grapes, and the aim is to be able to ferment them all together. The ripeness of 2015 allowed for all the different varieties to achieve good ripeness, and they were all included in the wine, which fermented with full clusters and indigenous yeasts. It was foot trodden, and the malolactic and slow and long aging was in French oak barrels and lasted 31 months. It's a wine of perfume and finesse, gentle and tender, attractive and showy, developing nice complexity in the glass, with a more Mediterranean profile, some fennel and aromatic herbs. It has a velvety texture with very fine tannins. It also has very good freshness and balance, and it finishes long and dry. 1,220 bottles and 24 magnums were filled in May 2018.

Wine Advocate (100)

I was really looking forward to the single-vineyard red 2016 Canta la Perdiz, their rarest and finest bottling. It comes from a one of the oldest plots in the village of La Aguilera found at 890 meters in altitude on sand and limestone soils that give it a special personality and a chalky texture. The full clusters fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats, and the wine went through seven months of a slow malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, where it completed an élevage of 31 months. The wine delivers what I was expecting, incredible finesse and elegance while filling your mouth. It is nuanced, perfumed and with a crystalline personality, with light and energy. It has very fine, chalky tannins that give it a velvety texture. It has incredible length. It's a world-class red that should develop for a very long time in bottle but also drink well throughout its life, even as young as now. This is one of the finest wines they have produced at this domaine, among the greatest in Ribera del Duero, fine, crystalline and full of Ribera character, serious but with a hedonist side. 1,789 bottles and 50 magnums were filled in May 2019.

Wine Advocate (97)

I also tasted the 2017 Canta la Perdiz from the low-yielding and warm year marked by spring frost. The Tempranillo field blend clusters fermented in concrete vats with natural yeasts after being foot trodden. The wine went through malolactic and 39 months of aging in oak barrels, mostly French, for 39 months. It has the perfume and approachability of the 2017s, but there's a lot more finesse here, the quality of the tannins is superb, and there's great balance and freshness. Another 2017 that transcends the vintage. The label is different each vintage, and in this different year, it does have a surprising, somewhat Ponsot-like label...1,103 bottles and 10 magnums were filled in March 2021.

Wine Advocate (97+)

The 2018 Canta la Perdiz feels like a more rustic version of the 2016, with earthiness and abundant tannins and more backward than the approachable and juicy 2019 I tasted next to it. It fermented with full clusters and indigenous yeasts in concrete vats followed by a slow malolactic in barrel and 37 months in those barrels. The wine is still a little oaky, spicy and smoky, with good ripeness, 14.5% alcohol, good freshness and balance and abundant tannins that feel a little rustic. We'll have to see how the wine develops in bottle. 1,365 bottles and 32 magnums were filled in November 2021.