Vinous (96)

John Alban's 2008 Syrah Reva impressed for its power, but came across as very, very young. On this day, the oak was a little more pronounced than in previous tastings, something I also heard from a few attendees. Still, all of the pedigree was there.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (95+)

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Bussia - Cascina Dardi is shaping up to be a real jewel. Exquisite balsamic-inflected aromatics meld into a core of dark fruit. Slender and nuanced, as most wines are in this vintage, the 2008 Riserva is all about grace and finesse. The first signs of aromatic complexity are just beginning to appear, making the 2008 an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next 10-15 years. The 2008 spent five and half years in cask and is just being released now.

Wine Enthusiast (94)

A complete wine, from the black currant fruits through the balanced tannins to the acidity. It is sturdy, complex, a wine that is already singing and will age well.

Wine Enthusiast (94)

A complete wine, from the black currant fruits through the balanced tannins to the acidity. It is sturdy, complex, a wine that is already singing and will age well.

Vinous (94+)

Medium red, a bit less saturated than the Clos Vougeot. Deeper aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, flinty smoky minerality and pepper, along with a whiff of gamey reduction. Bigger, broader and sweeter than the Clos Vougeot, and amazingly supple and plump for a grand cru from this vintage, without any loss of shape. The back end is like a booster rocket of fruits and flowers, which cover the wine's acidity and noble tannins today. I'd love to taste this next to the Clos Vougeot in ten years' time.

Vinous (95)

The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is an absolute joy to behold and in terms of drinking now a sheer pleasure, surpasses both the 1996 and 2005 tasted the previous day. It bursts with pixelated red cherry and strawberry fruit on the nose, laced with minerals and light citrus scents. The palate is powerful and certainly not dense. Yet it possesses disarming transparency and fabulous precision, weightless yet paradoxically intense with a long tail on the finish. It is more a Clos Saint-Jacques of texture and feeling than obvious fruit descriptors. Wonderful. Tasted at Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong.

Vinous (95)

The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is an absolute joy to behold and in terms of drinking now a sheer pleasure, surpasses both the 1996 and 2005 tasted the previous day. It bursts with pixelated red cherry and strawberry fruit on the nose, laced with minerals and light citrus scents. The palate is powerful and certainly not dense. Yet it possesses disarming transparency and fabulous precision, weightless yet paradoxically intense with a long tail on the finish. It is more a Clos Saint-Jacques of texture and feeling than obvious fruit descriptors. Wonderful. Tasted at Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong.

Vinous (95)

The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is an absolute joy to behold and in terms of drinking now a sheer pleasure, surpasses both the 1996 and 2005 tasted the previous day. It bursts with pixelated red cherry and strawberry fruit on the nose, laced with minerals and light citrus scents. The palate is powerful and certainly not dense. Yet it possesses disarming transparency and fabulous precision, weightless yet paradoxically intense with a long tail on the finish. It is more a Clos Saint-Jacques of texture and feeling than obvious fruit descriptors. Wonderful. Tasted at Fook Lam Moon in Hong Kong.

Vinous - Stephen Tanzer (90-93)

Cooler yellow peach and lemon aromas are lifted by a floral topnote. Suave on entry, then elegant and pliant in the middle, with a dominant flavor of crystallized lemon peel. Very firmly built wine, finishing with lovely lingering stony perfume.

Vinous (87)

Good medium red. Pure aromas of blackberry and blueberry lifted by mint and menthol. Juicy and supple, with moderate intensity and ripe, harmonious acidity. Nicely balanced wine with a savory finish featuring slightly dry tannins. Pascal Lachaux believes that 2009 will be a mid-term vintage, while the 2008s will be good early and late and may never shut down.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2008 Vina el Pison comes from a single vineyard planted in 1945 on pure limestone. It is the epitome of elegance with a sensual bouquet, a silky texture, already complex flavors, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will offer at least a 20 year lifespan, just long enough for the 2009 to be hitting its stride.

Wine Spectator (92)

This is a step up. Ripe and polished, with lots of blackberry, plum sauce and melted black licorice notes that are carried by dense but velvety tannins. Extra anise, violet and incense notes push through the vivid finish, where there's plenty of buried grip. A strong showing. Best from 2013 through 2019. 3,500 cases made. -JM

Vinous (98)

The 2008 Barolo is once again superb. The striking aromatics that are so typical of the year make a strong first impression. Delicate and silky on the palate, yet also deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2008 is pure seduction. A hint of grip from the tannins appears on the finish, but with some air, the 2008 is quite open. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 ever goes into a shell. Thus far, it has remained surprisingly open for a young Barolo from a cool, late-ripening vintage.

Vinous (98)

The 2008 Barolo is once again superb. The striking aromatics that are so typical of the year make a strong first impression. Delicate and silky on the palate, yet also deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2008 is pure seduction. A hint of grip from the tannins appears on the finish, but with some air, the 2008 is quite open. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 ever goes into a shell. Thus far, it has remained surprisingly open for a young Barolo from a cool, late-ripening vintage.

Wine Enthusiast (94)

93-85 Barrel sample. Mint and eucalyptus aromas are the hallmark of this tensely tannic wine, which relies on finely polished new wood as well as blackcurrant flavors. It is very dry, with a hard edge, but the potential balance is there.

Wine Advocate (95+)

An extraordinary effort in this vintage, this 2008 was made from lower yields than the 2010 (the 2008's equaled 20 hectoliters per hectare) and is a blend of 90% Merlot and equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that came in at 14% natural alcohol. Michel Rolland has been the consultant for all the Perse estates since their acquisition, and the 2008's fruit was harvested very late, October 20. The result is a backward, dense purple-colored wine revealing a crushed rock-like liqueur along with highly extracted, massive flavors of black currants, sweet cherries, licorice and toast. This full-bodied effort requires 5-6 years of bottle age and should last for 25-30 years.

Vinous - Neal Martin (85)

The 2008 Berliquet feels a little gawky on the nose, missing the cohesion of some of its peers, scents of iris and crushed rose petals infusing the mixture of red and black fruit. There is a sense of “airiness” about these aromatics, almost ephemeral in nature. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a little dryness on the back palate, masculine and rather broody with a slightly clipped finish. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 10-Year On tasting.

Decanter (97)

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir consisting of Premier and Grand Crus from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallee de la Marne and 35% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs. Significantly, this has nine years ageing on its lees (longer than some Prestige Cuvees), the 2008 was first released onto the global market back in March 2019. With an Extra Brut dosage of 4g/l, this is a highly expressive, confident and convincing interpretation of the vintage. Right now, it is youthfully sharp and focused with fine salinity, depth, acidity and balance, and as such is already extremely approachable. The flavour spectrum encompasses toast, oyster shell, citrus, cream and a flinty, mineral depth. There’s supreme balance and elegance here, combined with a hidden underlying power that will continue to emerge and broaden with time. The finish is dry and long.

Decanter (97)

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir consisting of Premier and Grand Crus from the Montagne de Reims and the Vallee de la Marne and 35% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs. Significantly, this has nine years ageing on its lees (longer than some Prestige Cuvees), the 2008 was first released onto the global market back in March 2019. With an Extra Brut dosage of 4g/l, this is a highly expressive, confident and convincing interpretation of the vintage. Right now, it is youthfully sharp and focused with fine salinity, depth, acidity and balance, and as such is already extremely approachable. The flavour spectrum encompasses toast, oyster shell, citrus, cream and a flinty, mineral depth. There’s supreme balance and elegance here, combined with a hidden underlying power that will continue to emerge and broaden with time. The finish is dry and long.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

Matthew Jukes (20++)

Made from 100% Chardonnay and coming from Chouilly (40%), Cramant (33%), Mesnil-sur-Oger (22%) and Avize (7%), with one-third fermented and aged in old oak barrels and a dosage of 7 g/L, this is becoming a relatively familiar recipe for this elite House and yet there is nothing familiar about the flavour of this epic new release. Billecart-Salmon’s elite Blanc de Blancs is named after Louis, the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who co-founded this illustrious Champagne house over two centuries ago with her husband, Nicolas François Billecart. This is the third release of Louis, and it is, again, completely different in shape and size to the beautiful 2006 (19/20) and crystalline 2007 (19.5/20). The oak was enhanced from 5% in the 2006 vintage to 50% in the 2007 and now it has been knocked back a touch, and this certainly serves to enhance the splendour of the sensational 2008 vintage fruit. I didn’t note that Avize fruit was used in the 2007, but I think it was in the 2006. Either way, I am confident that this tinkering around the edges has heightened the attack of this incredible wine. The delivery here is something to behold. It is clear from the nose that this wine is made with a horologist’s precision, and while everything starts quietly, there is an uncommon determination here that keeps on coming, leaving you panting with pleasure. On the palate, 2008 Louis perfectly balances extreme tension and white-knuckle drama with the most enchanting and serene jasmine, white tea, and linden blossom notes. It seems mesmerisingly composed from one side of the glass and hellbent on rearranging your taste buds via a national grid-sized electric shock from the other. I am not suggesting that this wine is too young to approach now because, at fourteen years of age, you can drink it, just be aware that this might be one of the wines with the most potential I have ever tasted from this incredible estate. As always with Billecart, the bubbles are minuscule, and the colour is as pale as can be, so there are no particular visual clues as to the greatness in the glass, but once the perfume takes hold and it pulls you to the glass, you are entirely within its control. I venture that Blanc de Blancs fans will go gaga when they taste this wine. It further improves on the magnificence of the two preceding vintages, and whether or not this is to do with the oak regime or the exact percentage of fruit drawn from each of the Grands Crus villages, I don’t know. However, I am certain that 2008 is a jaw-droppingly serious vintage and eclipses both 2006 and 2007 in terms of sheer class. Therefore, even at this early age, I am convinced that this is the birth of another perfect wine from Billecart-Salmon, and it is certainly the finest value 20/20 from this magnificent House, too.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

08NF was made from 83% Grands Crus and 17% de Premiers Crus: 60% Pinot Noir from the Premiers and Grands Crus of the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzenay et Verzy); 40% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs (Mesnil, Chouilly, Cramant, Vertus); 17% of the wines were vinified in oak barrels, and it was aged on its lees for 150 months; The dosage is 2.9 g/l, and it was disgorged in January 2022. This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried. Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine. It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly. The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses. I learned that this cuvée’s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable. As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here – this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible. I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical. While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.