Comte de Vogue
About Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Possessing one of the richest and lengthiest histories of any Burgundian Domaine, Comte de Vogüé can in fact trace its origins as a winemaking entity back to 1450. Quite unusually for Burgundy, the estate remained under the ownership of the same family for generations, including through the female line of the family until Catherine Bouhier married Cerice-Melchior de Vogüé in 1766. Retaining ownership of the winery and its holdings throughout the French Revolution despite being exiled in England, the modern history and now-famous label began in earnest with the Comte Georges de Vogüé inheriting the property in 1925.
Currently under the imperious stewardship of estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin, vineyard manager Eric Bourgogne and truly masterful winemaker François Millet, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is at the height of its power, delivering some of the most wonderous, transcendent and utterly sublime expressions of Burgundy collectors could hope to experience.
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Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)
The white Musigny was racked just before the harvest, now back in barrel. Clear pale colour even with a faint green reflection. Rather a beautiful gently perfumed nose, flinty yet fine, this year the Musigny Blanc does seem like grand cru quality. A little lemongrass and then a crystalline white fruit. Really promising.Inc. VAT£3,276.49 -
Vinous (94)
The 1985 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a wine that I last tasted back in May 2004 at a vertical in London. For me, this is the best vintage of that decade. The bouquet is earthy and spicy, not dissimilar to Christophe Roumier’s of that same year, although without the same delineation and complexity. This feels more feral and yet remains very attractive. The palate is medium-bodied and it is clearly at its peak of maturity. There is patently much more vigour than the 1988 tasted a few months earlier. There is weight and presence here, the tannins a tad rough around the edges and there is a dab of warmth towards the finish. Yet, you cannot deny the sheer enjoyable nature of this 1985 that in some ways harks back to the legendary wines of the 1940s and 1950s. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.Inc. VAT£5,129.21 -
Vinous (98+)
Bright, dark, saturated red-ruby. Pungent, noble aromas and flavors of raspberry, flowers, white pepper and powdered stone. Enters the palate with a wonderful lightness, then mounts impressively toward the back and saturates the entire mouth with fruits, spices, minerals and earth. As flamboyantly sweet as this wine is today, it's most remarkable for its power, definition, energy and cut. The tannins are still a bit youthfully spiky but this extremely backward wine finishes with superb thrust, grip and persistence. It's hard to imagine that this wine won't gain in texture and complexity over the next 20 to 30 years of aging in a cold cellar.Inc. VAT£3,793.61 -
Wine Advocate (98)
Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Musigny Vielles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé has slightly brighter and more vivacious fruit than J-F Mugnier, and in fact, the two wines seem to go in two different trajectories in the glass, this blossoming and the other becoming more occluded. De Vogüé's Musigny is unashamedly floral in style, very elegant and yet delineated. There is a noticeable estuary scents, mudflats and seaweed, that begin to permeate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, wonderful acidity and succinctly integrated new oak that is barely tangible. It is intense but elegant, long and tender in the mouth. It is a fabulous Musigny, one of the best that the domaine has produced in recent years.Inc. VAT£2,232.41 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016.Inc. VAT£1,591.61 -
Jancis Robinson (18+)
Their biggest holding. Oldest vines planted in 1953 and still in good shape. And all more than 25 years old. Deep crimson. The sort of freshness that I associate with stems even though this is fully destemmed. Cedary, cool, dark fruit, intense and just a touch dusty/stony/mineral. Perfectly matched on the palate with that rocky dark-fruit purity, dry yet succulent, and fragrant. Deep and contemplative and so much more to come. Refined texture.Inc. VAT£1,739.21 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Inc. VAT£2,035.61 -
Burghound (95-98)
(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). This too is quite aromatically restrained though aggressive swirling does eventually coax the pure and elegant aromas to emerge and when they do, they are almost a hypothetical blend of the Amoureuses and the Bonnes Mares. The concentrated, powerful and decidedly muscular flavors retain plenty of refinement and minerality that conclude in a wonderfully complex and superbly long finale. The mid-palate texture is akin to rolling rocks around in the mouth and the finish just goes on and on. This too is brilliant, and the word Zen definitely comes to mind. (95-98)/2041+Inc. VAT£2,107.61
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Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)
The white Musigny was racked just before the harvest, now back in barrel. Clear pale colour even with a faint green reflection. Rather a beautiful gently perfumed nose, flinty yet fine, this year the Musigny Blanc does seem like grand cru quality. A little lemongrass and then a crystalline white fruit. Really promising.In Bond£2,724.00 -
Vinous (94)
The 1985 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is a wine that I last tasted back in May 2004 at a vertical in London. For me, this is the best vintage of that decade. The bouquet is earthy and spicy, not dissimilar to Christophe Roumier’s of that same year, although without the same delineation and complexity. This feels more feral and yet remains very attractive. The palate is medium-bodied and it is clearly at its peak of maturity. There is patently much more vigour than the 1988 tasted a few months earlier. There is weight and presence here, the tannins a tad rough around the edges and there is a dab of warmth towards the finish. Yet, you cannot deny the sheer enjoyable nature of this 1985 that in some ways harks back to the legendary wines of the 1940s and 1950s. Tasted at the La Paulée in Beaune.In Bond£4,269.00 -
Vinous (98+)
Bright, dark, saturated red-ruby. Pungent, noble aromas and flavors of raspberry, flowers, white pepper and powdered stone. Enters the palate with a wonderful lightness, then mounts impressively toward the back and saturates the entire mouth with fruits, spices, minerals and earth. As flamboyantly sweet as this wine is today, it's most remarkable for its power, definition, energy and cut. The tannins are still a bit youthfully spiky but this extremely backward wine finishes with superb thrust, grip and persistence. It's hard to imagine that this wine won't gain in texture and complexity over the next 20 to 30 years of aging in a cold cellar.In Bond£3,156.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Musigny Vielles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé has slightly brighter and more vivacious fruit than J-F Mugnier, and in fact, the two wines seem to go in two different trajectories in the glass, this blossoming and the other becoming more occluded. De Vogüé's Musigny is unashamedly floral in style, very elegant and yet delineated. There is a noticeable estuary scents, mudflats and seaweed, that begin to permeate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin, wonderful acidity and succinctly integrated new oak that is barely tangible. It is intense but elegant, long and tender in the mouth. It is a fabulous Musigny, one of the best that the domaine has produced in recent years.In Bond£1,855.00 -
Wine Advocate (96)
The 2014 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a very intense, cold stone and blackberry scented bouquet, moving towards subtle marine like aromas (oyster shells, Crustacea) with time. There is just wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth, firm backbone, a slightly more masculine Musigny with just a hint of savoriness towards the long finish. This is showing great personality even at this early juncture, although of course, it will not even consider reaching its drinking plateau without 8-10 years in bottle. I suspect this Musigny will only gradually open. Tasted November 2016.In Bond£1,321.00 -
Jancis Robinson (18+)
Their biggest holding. Oldest vines planted in 1953 and still in good shape. And all more than 25 years old. Deep crimson. The sort of freshness that I associate with stems even though this is fully destemmed. Cedary, cool, dark fruit, intense and just a touch dusty/stony/mineral. Perfectly matched on the palate with that rocky dark-fruit purity, dry yet succulent, and fragrant. Deep and contemplative and so much more to come. Refined texture.In Bond£1,444.00 -
Vinous (97-99)
The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.In Bond£1,691.00 -
Burghound (95-98)
(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). This too is quite aromatically restrained though aggressive swirling does eventually coax the pure and elegant aromas to emerge and when they do, they are almost a hypothetical blend of the Amoureuses and the Bonnes Mares. The concentrated, powerful and decidedly muscular flavors retain plenty of refinement and minerality that conclude in a wonderfully complex and superbly long finale. The mid-palate texture is akin to rolling rocks around in the mouth and the finish just goes on and on. This too is brilliant, and the word Zen definitely comes to mind. (95-98)/2041+In Bond£1,751.00
