Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-97)

A low key lemon and lime colour. Clean fresh and classic on the nose. A very typical fresh stony palate, lightly washed in citrus, with enough flesh to provide the body necessary for ageing, and a fine, long, persistently mineral finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022

Wine Advocate (92-94)

Offering up notes of pear, white flowers, toasted almonds and beeswax, Bouchard's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled, with a more tightly wound, introverted profile than the Charmes that preceded it. Built to age, this is a serious Genevrières that I look forward to tasting from bottle.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

The 2 hectares 65 - with one parcel mid-slope and one further up - of this Premier Cru are always the first that Fr d ric harvests in Meursault. This is a delightful Genevri res, resplendent in floral aromas. The palate shows chamomile, vanilla extract, wild flower honey, pluots and green gauges. The mid-palate has a welcoming sappiness elevated by prancing acidity. 2022-30

Tim Atkin MW (95)

Two parcels – one in the upper reaches that gives lemon zest aromatics and one in the bottom in the old quarry that contributes saltiness – combine into a generous, one-hectare holding. Complexity looms on the nose and a similar, sultry concentration follows on the palate. The whole, resolutely suave package is lifted by buoyant acidity. It is very "digestible", as the Bourguignons would say. Baked apples, plentiful sweet spice and bread crust linger on the finish. 2023-35

Vinous (98)

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, although it is nothing to get too worried about. I think it has exceptional mineralité covered up by its youth. The medium-bodied palate is taut, fresh and quite saline, with a fine bead of acidity and some vanilla-y oak toward the very saline finish, though that will be eaten with bottle age. There is outstanding precision on the aftertaste, and that seems to be accentuated with aeration. I gave this a tepid reaction from barrel, but here in bottle, it received my highest score out of over two hundred 2017s. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Vinous (98)

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, although it is nothing to get too worried about. I think it has exceptional mineralité covered up by its youth. The medium-bodied palate is taut, fresh and quite saline, with a fine bead of acidity and some vanilla-y oak toward the very saline finish, though that will be eaten with bottle age. There is outstanding precision on the aftertaste, and that seems to be accentuated with aeration. I gave this a tepid reaction from barrel, but here in bottle, it received my highest score out of over two hundred 2017s. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Decanter (97)

Bouchard’s holding here is superb: 0.90ha on the edge of the Puligny side at midslope between Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 2019, Bouchard emphasised the richness by picking this parcel last. Ripe apples, white flowers and even a touch of honey make their appearance on the nose, while the texture on the palate is unctuous and deep without being heavy. There is still enough freshness to keep this lively through the intensely long finish.

Unveiling one of Burgundy's exquisite creations, the Buisson Charles Meursault Les Tessons 2016, an outstanding testament to the appellation's esteemed reputation. Crafted meticulously in the rural, eastern French town of Meursault, this sublime vintage exhibits intensely noble traits characteristic of its terroir.

Under the expert stewardship of Eric and Armelle Buisson, a pedigreed lineage of vintners, the wine signifies a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Its evolution commences with manual harvesting, ensuring optimised maturity, which then proceeds to age subtly in oak barrels to invigorate its intrinsic flavours.

Upon indulgence, one senses the underlying notes of ripe yellow fruits, interwoven immaculately with subtle nuances of white flowers, minerals and richly toasted hazelnuts. Its remarkable complexity confirms the Buisson Charles Meursault Les Tessons 2016 as a tour de force; a captivating narrative of Meursault’s soil, climate, and vinicultural heritage.

The Roca Gianaca 2020 we have on offer today is a white of serious Burgundian pedigree. The vineyard has been consulted, trained, and analysed by Bruno Clavelier, a famous vigneron from Vosne Romanée; and the barrels used for ageing have been sourced directly from Domaine Ramonet. Indeed a seriously treated wine from vineyard to bottling, the Roca Gianaca is made from 100% Vermentino.

Wine Advocate (92)

Tasted at the UGC in London. Ripe nose with lime, gooseberry and a touch of cut grass: good definition and lift. The palate is ripe and full of grapefruit, lime and gooseberry notes, but just lacking some tension towards the finish. This should be better considering that 2007 was a favourable vintage for Bordeaux Blanc. Drink now-2014. Tasted November 2009.

Wine Anorak (93)

North part of Chassagne, they have 2 hectares. Rocky soil with lots of limestone. Linear, bright and mineral with a citrus fruit core and a bit of spicy oak. There’s a tiny hint of bitterness under the fruit. Has a bit of pineapple and pear richness, too, and some hazelnut. Lovely focus.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years.

Wine Advocate (100)

This is one of the greatest dry white wines I have ever tasted. The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a liquid mineral, crystalline expression. It is the essence of its grape as well as terroir. It may be the greatest expression of terroir I have seen outside of a handful of Alsatian Rieslings (Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind). It has that transparent character that terroiristes talk more about than actually recognize. Drinking it is like consuming a liquified stony concoction mixed with white flowers, licorice, and honeyed fruits. It is frightfully pure, dense, and well-delineated. As I said last year, There is no real fruit character, just glycerin, alcohol, and liquid stones. That's about it, but, wow, what an expression! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. This is for the connoisseur of rare wines. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites.

Vinous - Josh Raynolds (94-97)

Light gold. Intense, explosively perfumed and captivating, with a fabulous display of fruit, herb, mineral and spice aromas. A replay of the outstanding 2004, showing a leesy, pungent personality that suggests a great grand cru white Burgundy. The sheer flavor extract is remarkable; flavors include fresh and dried peach, pear, orange rind and honey, and the texture is sappy and tactile. There are only 150 cases of this for the world.

Wine Advocate (100)

As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.

Wine Advocate (100)

Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff!

Wine Advocate (99)

From a warm site and a hot vintage, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal Blanc was harvested on the August 28, and aged in 100% new French oak. Flirting with perfection and a full-bore, exotic, almost over-the-top expression of Marsanne, it has less minerality than the 2010, yet more of everything else with boatloads of caramelized fruits, buttered citrus, white flowers, honey and crushed rocks all soaring from the glass. Rich, layered, exuberant, unctuous and exotic, with stunning freshness despite it's thickness and weight, drink this incredible white anytime over the coming 30-40 years.

Wine Advocate (97-99)

Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.

Wine Advocate (97-99)

Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

A killer wine as always, the 2018 Saint Joseph Les Granits Blanc reveals a medium gold color as well as powerful notes of white currants, toasted spices, brioche, quince, and crushed rock. With beautiful richness, medium to full body, no hard edges and a great finish, it's consistently one of the great whites in the appellation.

Experience the remarkable Chateau d'Avrille Coteaux de l'Aubance 1989, a manifestation of an exceptional vintage year. This distinct wine from the famed Loire Valley in France boasts the distinctive offering from Chateau d'Avrille, a testament to their meticulous approach to viniculture.

Produced in the small and specialised Coteaux de l'Aubance region, this luscious golden-hued dessert wine is steeped in tradition. The grapes are selectively hand-picked, ensuring only the ripest become part of this tasteful blend. Fermentation in traditional oak barrels develops an exquisite, complex taste.

Renowned for its balance, the Chateau d'Avrille Coteaux de l'Aubance 1989 offers myriad flavours of candied fruit, honey, and gentle spices. Artfully matured for over three decades, it sings a rich, haunting melody on the palate. A classic embodiment of a fine dessert wine, this bottle encapsulates the prestigious history of the Chateau d'Avrille estate.

Wine Advocate (89)

Raised entirely in stainless steel, the 2016 Saint-Véran was showing very well, wafting from the glass with notes of lemon oil, honeysuckle and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and powerful, with succulent underlying acidity, concluding with a stony, saline finish. Cropped at a mere 12 hectoliters per hectare, it nevertheless remains quite classical in profile—there's simply somewhat more flesh and concentration than usual.

Vinous (93)

The 2018 Meursault Charmes-Dessus 1er Cru has a clean and precise bouquet. Understated at first, it opens with crushed rock, white flowers and touches of citrus fruit. It appears to build in intensity. The palate is quite oaky on the entry, although that should be subsumed with time. Good substance, slightly reductive, yet judiciously spiced with ample depth on the satisfying finish. Great potential. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.