France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
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(6x75cl) 2012Vinous (94+)
(vinified with about 33% whole clusters): Good deep red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of crushed raspberry, cranberry, blood orange, menthol and spices. Dense and tactile but at the same time juicy and vibrant, showing excellent cut and saline complexity to its red fruit and menthol flavors. Notes of lavender, garrigue and mint contribute to the impression of inner-mouth lift. Some oak comes up with air and carries through a very long, spicy finish. Really superb fruit and perfectly judged use of stems here--and not at all heavily extracted. Nicolas Groffier noted that he's now privileging clarity over roundess for his Bonnes-Mares.Inc. VAT£3,246.24 -
(6x75cl) 2013Wine Advocate (92)
Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of fruit extraction on the nose, darker than the Bonnes-Mares from either Bruno Clair or Domaine de la Vougeraie: blackberry and wild strawberry scents mixed with sous-bois and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a fine line of acidity with good density. This is a mouth-filling and voluminous Bonnes-Mares with a tarty, spicy finish that suggests this should age well in bottle. Tasted September 2016.Inc. VAT£2,488.32 -
(3x75cl) 2015Vinous (95)
The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very delineated bouquet, perhaps three-quarters red and one-quarter black fruit with a subtle marine vein. So pure and refined! The palate is beautifully balanced, offering supple tannin, red cherry, raspberry and touches of cranberry. I adore the tension and elegance of this Bonnes-Mares and the stately manner in which it fans out toward the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.Inc. VAT£1,752.02 -
Vinous (95)
The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very delineated bouquet, perhaps three-quarters red and one-quarter black fruit with a subtle marine vein. So pure and refined! The palate is beautifully balanced, offering supple tannin, red cherry, raspberry and touches of cranberry. I adore the tension and elegance of this Bonnes-Mares and the stately manner in which it fans out toward the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.Inc. VAT£2,769.12 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was bottled just before Christmas 2018. It has an engaging, almost beguiling bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois, light tobacco aromas and a discreet marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and slightly ferrous red berry fruit. More broody and introspective than the nascent 2018, with a subtly spicy pinch of cracked black pepper on the fresh finish. Excellent.Inc. VAT£2,302.32 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.Inc. VAT£4,736.64 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.Inc. VAT£2,514.72 -
Vinous (95-97)
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style.Inc. VAT£616.92 -
Vinous (95-97)
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style.Inc. VAT£2,568.72 -
(12x75cl) 2020Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.Inc. VAT£8,191.04 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.Inc. VAT£723.72 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.Inc. VAT£4,005.12 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which is located 25% on Terres Blanches and 75% on Terres Rouges, is raised in 50% new oak and made with 100% whole bunches. This has a very delineated and pure bouquet. The stems are neatly assimilated; subtle scents of sous-bois and Earl Grey emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, quite saline, like others, maybe missing the usual flamboyance and opulence on the finish, yet that is articulating the style of the growing season. I can see this gaining more weight after its final racking.Inc. VAT£3,385.92 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)
50 % new wood and 90% whole bunch vinification. Picked on the second day. A heady bright purple. The bouquet is backward but suggesting a classical fruit profile, more raspberry than strawberry, with enough density that the whole bunch effect is not so evident. Now a little white pepper. A beautiful expression of dark raspberry fruit on the nose, just a little acidity, with great sense of balance.Inc. VAT£4,794.72 -
(6x75cl) 2023Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-96)
Nicolas Groffier estimates that his holding of Bonnes Mares is a little more than two-thirds on red soil. 50% new wood. A rich deep purple. This is very Bonnes Mares with its slightly wilder side. Not hyper concentrated but with a noble quality to the dark red fruit, raspberry and boysenberry, good acidity, tannins present but in balance, and a little bit of oak which will soon integrate. Drink from 2033-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.Inc. VAT£4,524.80 -
Vinous (87)
Racked three or four weeks prior to my visit, the 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains contains 10% Gamay. It has a crisp red cherry and wild strawberry bouquet with veins of blue fruit. The palate is well balanced with succulent tannins and a little more body than the 2017, as you would expect, as well as more rondeur on the finish.Inc. VAT£215.06 -
Vinous (84-86)
The 2020 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which includes 25% Gamay, has a delightful, open-knit bouquet with lively red cherry and strawberry fruit. The palate is what you might describe as "dainty", well defined with a crunchy, tart finish that feels just a little "clipped" at the moment.Inc. VAT£274.40 -
Vinous (84-86)
The 2021 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which contains 25% Gamay, has a pretty red cherry and bergamot tinged bouquet, quite airy in style, obviously more "Côte d'Or" than "Beaujolais". The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, quite tart in the mouth with a short, sharp finish.Inc. VAT£320.66 -
Vinous (89)
(bottled the day before my December visit, after spending a month in cuve; represents a yield of just 20 hectoliters per hectare): Bright red-ruby. Rather wild aromas of crushed cherry, black raspberry, blueberry and violet, plus a leathery nuance. Sweet and full for Bourgogne, conveying an almost chocolatey ripeness to its dark berry flavors. And yet this wine has a pH of just 3.22, according to Nicolas Groffier, who aged it with a lot of its lees and bottled it without fining or filtration. Groffier made just 15 barrels of this juice, versus a more typical 33 to 38. This 2015 boasts vibrant acidity and uncommon density for its appellation, but then this bottling is almost always an outperformer.Inc. VAT£346.84 -
(6x75cl) 2016Vinous (88)
Good medium red. Spicy red fruits complicated by soil nuances on the nose. Showed a captivating red cherry perfume with air, along with harmonious acidity and considerable finesse. Finishes juicy and firmly tannic, with noteworthy floral persistence for its appellation. Groffier told me he did no extraction at all for half of this cuvée. As in many past vintages, this should make a serious Bourgogne and yet it also conveys a relaxed quality. (Incidentally, the estate's Passetoutgrains, which includes one-third Gamay, is also a winner in 2016, offering juicy, savory red fruit aromas and flavors and a firm finish.)Inc. VAT£369.49 -
Vinous (86-88)
The 2018 Bourgogne Rouge, matured in two- or three-year-old oak barrels, has an attractive bouquet of generous mulberry and black currant aromas and a touch of wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit (cranberry and raspberry) on the entry and a slightly powdery texture on the surprisingly structured finish. This is a very well-crafted Bourgogne Rouge.Inc. VAT£257.89 -
Vinous (86-88)
The 2020 Bourgogne Rouge has a precise bouquet with commendable precision for a regional red, attractive rose petal scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, fine acidity, taut and fresh with good weight on the finish. For, me this is a level up from Passetoutgrain.Inc. VAT£285.49 -
Vinous (85-87)
The 2021 Bourgogne Rouge is light and airy on the nose, brambly red fruit with light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, brittle in texture, attenuating towards the finish with a sapid aftertaste.Inc. VAT£688.60 -
Vinous (85-87)
The 2021 Bourgogne Rouge is light and airy on the nose, brambly red fruit with light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, brittle in texture, attenuating towards the finish with a sapid aftertaste.Inc. VAT£381.49 -
(6x75cl) 2008Vinous (93)
Deep red-ruby, the darkest of these 2008s. Complex aromas of black fruits, licorice, caraway seed, game and smoke. Big, sweet and rich; plush and deep without coming across as heavy. Lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume to the flavors of black fruits and spices. A broad, silky, savory wine that really spreads out to saturate the palate on the back end. Finishes long and aromatic.Inc. VAT£4,811.18 -
(6x75cl) 2009Wine Advocate (95)
The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze is a dazzling, sensual Burgundy. An exciting melange of dark fruit, licorice, earthiness and incense emerges from the glass. The wine builds with notable powerful intensity towards the rich, sweeping, eternal finish. This enveloping, totally convincing Beze needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.Inc. VAT£4,125.22 -
Vinous (92-95)
(aged in 100% new Francois Freres barrels): Deep red-ruby color. Cool, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, redcurrant, orange zest, licorice, pepper and cardamom. Large-scaled but primary and light on its feet; silky in texture but a bit hardened today by the CO2. Shows intriguing citrus peel notes: is it the excess gas or the cool site? Finishes firmly tannic, with a sexy spice character. Tricky to taste today: I would not be surprised if the finished wine rated a score at the top end of my projected range.Inc. VAT£5,859.64 -
Vinous (93)
Rich and explosive to the core, Groffier's 2011 Chambertin Clos de Bèze hits the palate with huge dark blue/purplish fruit, violets, menthol and cloves. Even with all of the intensity, power and voluptuousness, my preference is to drink the Groffier Burgundies sooner rather than later. The inclusion of 50% whole clusters adds complexity and dimension. This is an especially bold, fruit-driven Bèze, but it all works.Inc. VAT£806.52 -
Vinous (93-96)
(70% vendange entier; 100% new oak; these 80-year-old vines produced 37 hectoliters per hectare in 2013): Bright, dark red. Lovely pepper-and-spice lift to the aromas of red cherry, rose petal and licorice. Sappy and dense, with a captivating light touch and a compelling sweet/savory balance to the red fruit and licorice flavors. The very long finish features noble tannins and a building spiciness. A bit hard to taste today owing to a high level of carbon dioxide but looks to be brilliant.Inc. VAT£1,718.76 -
(2x75cl) 2019Vinous (96-98)
The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is all about one-hundreds: age of vine, percentage of new oak and whole bunches. It has an incredibly intense and powerful bouquet with layers of blackberry, sage, sous-bois and charcoal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and sufficient fruit to easily soak up the new wood. Fresh and quite citrus-like, it is beautifully proportioned on the finish with a lingering hint of pepperiness on the aftertaste. This is an outstanding Clos-de-Bèze, though it will require several years in bottle.Inc. VAT£2,200.01
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(6x75cl) 2012
Vinous (94+)
(vinified with about 33% whole clusters): Good deep red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of crushed raspberry, cranberry, blood orange, menthol and spices. Dense and tactile but at the same time juicy and vibrant, showing excellent cut and saline complexity to its red fruit and menthol flavors. Notes of lavender, garrigue and mint contribute to the impression of inner-mouth lift. Some oak comes up with air and carries through a very long, spicy finish. Really superb fruit and perfectly judged use of stems here--and not at all heavily extracted. Nicolas Groffier noted that he's now privileging clarity over roundess for his Bonnes-Mares.In Bond£2,686.60 -
(6x75cl) 2013
Wine Advocate (92)
Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of fruit extraction on the nose, darker than the Bonnes-Mares from either Bruno Clair or Domaine de la Vougeraie: blackberry and wild strawberry scents mixed with sous-bois and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a fine line of acidity with good density. This is a mouth-filling and voluminous Bonnes-Mares with a tarty, spicy finish that suggests this should age well in bottle. Tasted September 2016.In Bond£2,055.00 -
(3x75cl) 2015
Vinous (95)
The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very delineated bouquet, perhaps three-quarters red and one-quarter black fruit with a subtle marine vein. So pure and refined! The palate is beautifully balanced, offering supple tannin, red cherry, raspberry and touches of cranberry. I adore the tension and elegance of this Bonnes-Mares and the stately manner in which it fans out toward the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.In Bond£1,452.00 -
Vinous (95)
The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very delineated bouquet, perhaps three-quarters red and one-quarter black fruit with a subtle marine vein. So pure and refined! The palate is beautifully balanced, offering supple tannin, red cherry, raspberry and touches of cranberry. I adore the tension and elegance of this Bonnes-Mares and the stately manner in which it fans out toward the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.In Bond£2,289.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was bottled just before Christmas 2018. It has an engaging, almost beguiling bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois, light tobacco aromas and a discreet marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and slightly ferrous red berry fruit. More broody and introspective than the nascent 2018, with a subtly spicy pinch of cracked black pepper on the fresh finish. Excellent.In Bond£1,900.00 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.In Bond£3,910.00 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is raised in 25% new oak and is almost entirely made from whole bunches. That stem addition gently guides the aromatics here, imparting a subtle pepperiness and earthiness that combines deftly with the vivid black fruit; perhaps there is less blue fruit here compared to other Bonnes-Mares this vintage. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, reminiscent of de Vogüé in some ways. The slightly confit finish manages to retain impressive freshness. It is missing a little persistence, but otherwise this is a fine, quite delicious Bonnes-Mares.In Bond£2,077.00 -
Vinous (95-97)
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style.In Bond£511.00 -
Vinous (95-97)
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and is made entirely with whole bunches. This has a very well-defined, quite floral nose with violet-infused red and blue fruit, fine delineation and poise. This is understated compared to previous vintages that I have tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, quite citric and edgy with blood orange and a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. This gains weight with aeration that emphasizes more its blue fruit character. Very long in terms of aftertaste, this should age with style.In Bond£2,122.00 -
(12x75cl) 2020
Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.In Bond£6,793.81 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.In Bond£600.00 -
Vinous (96-98)
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from 80-year old vines: 100% whole bunch with one-third new oak. This takes time to unfold on the nose when often this cuvée is quite medium. The aromatics say: Hold your horses. Then it unfurls to reveal slightly tertiary black fruit, tobacco and crushed limestone, almost flinty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Silky texture, poised acidity, this might be the most elegant and refined Bonnes-Mares that Nicolas Groffier has produced. I confess, I could not resist swallowing my tasting measure. This is one of Nicolas Groffier's finest achievements to date.In Bond£3,319.00 -
Vinous (93-95)
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, which is located 25% on Terres Blanches and 75% on Terres Rouges, is raised in 50% new oak and made with 100% whole bunches. This has a very delineated and pure bouquet. The stems are neatly assimilated; subtle scents of sous-bois and Earl Grey emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, quite saline, like others, maybe missing the usual flamboyance and opulence on the finish, yet that is articulating the style of the growing season. I can see this gaining more weight after its final racking.In Bond£2,803.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)
50 % new wood and 90% whole bunch vinification. Picked on the second day. A heady bright purple. The bouquet is backward but suggesting a classical fruit profile, more raspberry than strawberry, with enough density that the whole bunch effect is not so evident. Now a little white pepper. A beautiful expression of dark raspberry fruit on the nose, just a little acidity, with great sense of balance.In Bond£3,977.00 -
(6x75cl) 2023
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-96)
Nicolas Groffier estimates that his holding of Bonnes Mares is a little more than two-thirds on red soil. 50% new wood. A rich deep purple. This is very Bonnes Mares with its slightly wilder side. Not hyper concentrated but with a noble quality to the dark red fruit, raspberry and boysenberry, good acidity, tannins present but in balance, and a little bit of oak which will soon integrate. Drink from 2033-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.In Bond£3,750.00 -
Vinous (87)
Racked three or four weeks prior to my visit, the 2018 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains contains 10% Gamay. It has a crisp red cherry and wild strawberry bouquet with veins of blue fruit. The palate is well balanced with succulent tannins and a little more body than the 2017, as you would expect, as well as more rondeur on the finish.In Bond£162.00 -
Vinous (84-86)
The 2020 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which includes 25% Gamay, has a delightful, open-knit bouquet with lively red cherry and strawberry fruit. The palate is what you might describe as "dainty", well defined with a crunchy, tart finish that feels just a little "clipped" at the moment.In Bond£208.00 -
Vinous (84-86)
The 2021 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, which contains 25% Gamay, has a pretty red cherry and bergamot tinged bouquet, quite airy in style, obviously more "Côte d'Or" than "Beaujolais". The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, quite tart in the mouth with a short, sharp finish.In Bond£250.00 -
Vinous (89)
(bottled the day before my December visit, after spending a month in cuve; represents a yield of just 20 hectoliters per hectare): Bright red-ruby. Rather wild aromas of crushed cherry, black raspberry, blueberry and violet, plus a leathery nuance. Sweet and full for Bourgogne, conveying an almost chocolatey ripeness to its dark berry flavors. And yet this wine has a pH of just 3.22, according to Nicolas Groffier, who aged it with a lot of its lees and bottled it without fining or filtration. Groffier made just 15 barrels of this juice, versus a more typical 33 to 38. This 2015 boasts vibrant acidity and uncommon density for its appellation, but then this bottling is almost always an outperformer.In Bond£273.00 -
(6x75cl) 2016
Vinous (88)
Good medium red. Spicy red fruits complicated by soil nuances on the nose. Showed a captivating red cherry perfume with air, along with harmonious acidity and considerable finesse. Finishes juicy and firmly tannic, with noteworthy floral persistence for its appellation. Groffier told me he did no extraction at all for half of this cuvée. As in many past vintages, this should make a serious Bourgogne and yet it also conveys a relaxed quality. (Incidentally, the estate's Passetoutgrains, which includes one-third Gamay, is also a winner in 2016, offering juicy, savory red fruit aromas and flavors and a firm finish.)In Bond£290.00 -
Vinous (86-88)
The 2018 Bourgogne Rouge, matured in two- or three-year-old oak barrels, has an attractive bouquet of generous mulberry and black currant aromas and a touch of wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit (cranberry and raspberry) on the entry and a slightly powdery texture on the surprisingly structured finish. This is a very well-crafted Bourgogne Rouge.In Bond£197.00 -
Vinous (86-88)
The 2020 Bourgogne Rouge has a precise bouquet with commendable precision for a regional red, attractive rose petal scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, fine acidity, taut and fresh with good weight on the finish. For, me this is a level up from Passetoutgrain.In Bond£220.00 -
Vinous (85-87)
The 2021 Bourgogne Rouge is light and airy on the nose, brambly red fruit with light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, brittle in texture, attenuating towards the finish with a sapid aftertaste.In Bond£538.00 -
Vinous (85-87)
The 2021 Bourgogne Rouge is light and airy on the nose, brambly red fruit with light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, brittle in texture, attenuating towards the finish with a sapid aftertaste.In Bond£300.00 -
(6x75cl) 2008
Vinous (93)
Deep red-ruby, the darkest of these 2008s. Complex aromas of black fruits, licorice, caraway seed, game and smoke. Big, sweet and rich; plush and deep without coming across as heavy. Lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume to the flavors of black fruits and spices. A broad, silky, savory wine that really spreads out to saturate the palate on the back end. Finishes long and aromatic.In Bond£3,990.72 -
(6x75cl) 2009
Wine Advocate (95)
The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze is a dazzling, sensual Burgundy. An exciting melange of dark fruit, licorice, earthiness and incense emerges from the glass. The wine builds with notable powerful intensity towards the rich, sweeping, eternal finish. This enveloping, totally convincing Beze needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.In Bond£3,421.65 -
Vinous (92-95)
(aged in 100% new Francois Freres barrels): Deep red-ruby color. Cool, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, redcurrant, orange zest, licorice, pepper and cardamom. Large-scaled but primary and light on its feet; silky in texture but a bit hardened today by the CO2. Shows intriguing citrus peel notes: is it the excess gas or the cool site? Finishes firmly tannic, with a sexy spice character. Tricky to taste today: I would not be surprised if the finished wine rated a score at the top end of my projected range.In Bond£4,867.00 -
Vinous (93)
Rich and explosive to the core, Groffier's 2011 Chambertin Clos de Bèze hits the palate with huge dark blue/purplish fruit, violets, menthol and cloves. Even with all of the intensity, power and voluptuousness, my preference is to drink the Groffier Burgundies sooner rather than later. The inclusion of 50% whole clusters adds complexity and dimension. This is an especially bold, fruit-driven Bèze, but it all works.In Bond£669.00 -
Vinous (93-96)
(70% vendange entier; 100% new oak; these 80-year-old vines produced 37 hectoliters per hectare in 2013): Bright, dark red. Lovely pepper-and-spice lift to the aromas of red cherry, rose petal and licorice. Sappy and dense, with a captivating light touch and a compelling sweet/savory balance to the red fruit and licorice flavors. The very long finish features noble tannins and a building spiciness. A bit hard to taste today owing to a high level of carbon dioxide but looks to be brilliant.In Bond£1,423.00 -
(2x75cl) 2019
Vinous (96-98)
The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is all about one-hundreds: age of vine, percentage of new oak and whole bunches. It has an incredibly intense and powerful bouquet with layers of blackberry, sage, sous-bois and charcoal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and sufficient fruit to easily soak up the new wood. Fresh and quite citrus-like, it is beautifully proportioned on the finish with a lingering hint of pepperiness on the aftertaste. This is an outstanding Clos-de-Bèze, though it will require several years in bottle.In Bond£1,828.00
